Rebuilding LS1
Rebuilding LS1 Alright, so I have a 2001 LS1 Im rebuilding. I have taken it appart completely except for the crank pully and the front cover, ive taken off all the main bearing caps and the connecting rods and the motor looks great.. hardly any wear on the bearings at all (ex state police motor with 125,000 miles on it)
So what I want to know is where is a good place to get a rebuild kit? I plan on replacing all the connecting rod bolts, the mains bolts, along with crankshaft and head bolts. I was just wondering where you guys who have rebuilt have bought your gaskets and bolts, and if anybody had a package deal. Also if it dosent have to be bored, can i use stock cleaned up pistons AND rings? Any other tips/advice are welcome. I have rebuilt a couple SBCs and so far the LS1 has been a pleasure to work on, unlike the chore of a SBC.
So what I want to know is where is a good place to get a rebuild kit? I plan on replacing all the connecting rod bolts, the mains bolts, along with crankshaft and head bolts. I was just wondering where you guys who have rebuilt have bought your gaskets and bolts, and if anybody had a package deal. Also if it dosent have to be bored, can i use stock cleaned up pistons AND rings? Any other tips/advice are welcome. I have rebuilt a couple SBCs and so far the LS1 has been a pleasure to work on, unlike the chore of a SBC.
i went to thunder and they dont sell a full kit, you have to piece one together
and no, i didnt buy it off ebay, i got it out of my totaled B4C. that motor on ebay probably wouldnt need to be rebuilt.
and no, i didnt buy it off ebay, i got it out of my totaled B4C. that motor on ebay probably wouldnt need to be rebuilt.
Ok, here we go being I'm right in the middle of this myself. Are you looking to rebuild it and make it better or just a stock rebuild, have to decide that now because there is alot more that goes into this. If you are looking to stud the mains, you MUST line bore the block. Studs put different stress charactistics on the block than bolts. If you are planning to stud the heads too, must decide that so you can get everything right for that. As for everything else, get it down all the way and have the machine shop polish and MIC the crank.
Since you have the motor torn down that far you might as well do it right. Take the block to the machine shop with the main caps installed. Have it honed, cam bearings replaced, line honed/bored if necessary, clean the deck up, & polish the crank. Have the machine shop just check the block out. I had one with the # 7 hole slightly out of round. If you are staying with stock rods & pistons that is fine. You should check the roundness of the large end of the rod, upgrade the rod bolts to ARP, & mic the crank. When you hone the bores you need new rings. Never assume things like bearing clearances & piston to bore clearance are right...always check. Also, a new oil pump. It's a good idea is take the rotating assembly and have it balanced. Most of your money will be at the machine shop. I guess your budget determines if you do it right or do it backyard...
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i figured i would have them ballance the crank, and id ballance the rods and pistons myself... everything you said i belive im going to do. thanks for your help. id still like to hear where i can buy a rebuild kit, rather than having to piece one together
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Verdad Gallardo You have balance the rotating assembly together. Another important part that does not always recieve enough attention is cleaning the block after all the machine work is done. Even if the machine shop says it is good to go I would purchase a block cleaning kit and go to work with a water hose or pressure washer and an air compressor. Pay close attention to bolt holes such as the ones for the head bolts. Bearings and rings are bought separate. I think places like Thunder Racing have kits that include gaskets, balancer bolt, & head bolts. Most of the factory bolts are TTY and are only good for one use. Also pay close attention to centering the front and rear main seals on the crank or you may have an oil leak. There is some slop in the rear and front covers. Before you take the block to the machine shop remove the rear oil galley plug and remeber to re-install it or you may find that you will not have any oil pressure when you go crank it for the first time. Good luck!
Last edited by 98 Silver Bullet; Jan 18, 2006 at 09:05 PM.
You know I read in a GM press release that the LS engines were not meant to be rebuilt, hence the use of so many 1 time use only bolts , a new LS6 can be had here in CA. for at $5200 Fitzgerald Chevrolet, you can try Superior automotive in Anaheim CA 714 503-1880 they build some pretty wild LS's as does Turnkey performance 760 941-2741.
Originally Posted by Anthony Williams
You know I read in a GM press release that the LS engines were not meant to be rebuilt, hence the use of so many 1 time use only bolts , a new LS6 can be had here in CA. for at $5200 Fitzgerald Chevrolet, you can try Superior automotive in Anaheim CA 714 503-1880 they build some pretty wild LS's as does Turnkey performance 760 941-2741.
Furthermore, you can do a lot more for your money than a basic LS6.
A LPE forged 346 shortblock with stock crank is only like $2100
Add 1000 for the new flood of dirt cheap CNC ported 243 heads
Add 400 for a cam
Add 1200 for a 90/90
Add 500 for misc other stuff
For that same 5200 youve now got a motor capable of 450+ RWHP versus the ls6's 350+ RWHP.
That being said, this gentleman did not want to buy a shortblock, he wants to rebuild his existing shortblock.
There are no kits available like you find for the SBC and BBC engines. Your best bet is to tear it apart and order new components as you see fit. Send out your crank to be cleaned up at a machine shop, then order main and rod bearings to suit. If youre just going to do a clean up hone of a couple thousandths, you may be able to get away with reusing the stock pistons and just getting some new rings. However now would be a good time to upgrade to forged 3.905 pistons and have the block bored accordingly.
