NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

If you install the GM hot cam will it require you to change the convertor or will it run ok with the stock one?

blkZ28spt

Converter before cam.

Juiced346

Had a buddy call me and ask me this same question today.

Most defenitly you would want to change the convertor out, because the hot cam idles so hard that the stock tight convertor will cause it to die when you drop it down into drive.

Even if you put a 3200 it would be assloads of help.

Dane

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

Mine would die until I got it tuned. No verter yet, maybe never. Not a 1/4 mile car, just a fun cruiser.

john5632

BigDaddyBry,I have a 98 formula a4 with LT,ory loudmouth,lid.I am not looking for a 1/4mile car just a fun street car and thought about a cam before a verter as well even though everyone says verter first.What size cam(whose cam)did you use? And was there any stalling at all after the tune?Did it make a noticeable difference?What other mods do you have? I think with the mods I have should make abig difference. Please reply back or any one else.

blkZ28spt

So you car isn't being modded to perform on the track...then what are you modding it for? The same principles that give you the best peformance at the track apply to the street as well.

Bolt ons (including headers) followed by a converter and, finally, a cam. Dyno tune can be done after the headers or held off until the cam goes on, depending on your individual situation.

Converter before cam.

What are you hoping to get out of the cam? A converter will do more for performance than a cam, especially if you try installing anything resembling a real cam with the stock converter. The stock converter is too small for the stock cam!

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

People have different goals in mind when they mod, and you don’t mod just for the track. If that were the case, we would all trailer our cars to the track...

We all like to drive fast or have the ability to drive fast and we mod for different reasons. Some want a mean sounding car and nothing more, so they buy a catback and maybe a full exhaust. Some want to perform well during street races or at the track, so they mod with that in mind. Some want a car where driveability is not compromised because racing is rare. Others may mod to see what they can do on the dyno.

Some people may be able to tolerate a 4k stall. Personally, I like being able to drive off at idle and I don't want to deal with all the things that come with a larger verter. A 4k stall is better suited for racing and good track times and is absolutely necessary in an auto with a large cam, but as with any mod, you do have to sacrifice something to have it. Know what your goals are, educate yourself on what you are going to gain/lose, and mod accordingly.

For example: I like to drive fast, drop the hammer and go from 60 to 140 in a flash. Yes, a larger converter would help me here and in street races, but I would sacrifice in other areas. Street races and the track will be rare occasions for me, I will race/go to the track 1% of my time, so why sacrifice the other 99% just so I do well during that 1%?

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

Here is a link to a thread I started that answers most of your questions:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/430607-dyno-d-high-why-dyno-experts-needed.html
I want to verify the dyno numbers. Our mods are very similar.

As for stalling, it stalled at EVERY stop (unless I put it in neutral) after the install. Once it was tuned, it would only stall if it was not allowed to warm-up on a cold start. Since I always let the car warm up for a few minutes, it never stalls. As soon as the temp is over 100, its good to go. On non-cold starts I can just start it up and drive, no prob.

Oh yeah, its an absolute blast to drive and suits my needs well.

blkZ28spt

Bigdaddy: I am trying to figure out what it is that john wants out of his car. Your post points out why it is that we need to understand HIS goals before making recommendations. I cannot figure out what it is he wants, performance wise, that would make him want a cam before a converter. The only thing I have ever heard that is even half legit is that they want lope and don't care if the car is slow.

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

True, we need to know what his goals are.

To answer his question specifically, from my experience: with this cam, you do not need a verter. As everyone will undoubtedly agree, these components (cam & TC) perform to their fullest potential when matched. For the record, if/when I get a TC, it will be 2800-3200, 1.8-2.1str. I could live with that.

john5632

I would like more lope,but just wondering how much difference(performance wise )would a converter make over a cam with my mods? would it hurt my trans(the verter)? How much horse power will I lose? Do I need to get gears(I have 3:23)ortranny cooler,deeper pan?How much labor vs.cam?If verter is alot cheaper than cam will I be able to add Ls6 intake?I would like more lope but prefer speed just that I bought another house and money is tight till I sell the condo.Did not plan on buying ahouse but wife wanted on at the last minute.Originally planned on doing both at the same time,but after closing costs etc. not as much left till I sell other property. sorry so long

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

I have a friend that burnt up his convertor and he is running the hot cam. I happen to have the last(stock) convertor that I changed out when I had my transmission rebuilt and I told him he could have my old convertor if it would work ok with his setup. He has had the car tuned for the cam so we are going to change the convertor this weekend. Everyboby on this board isn't rich and can afford to drop $700 for a new convertor and a free convertor sounds mighty good to him if we can get his car back on the road. So its good to know it will probally work until he can afford a new stalled unit. Thanks for the feedback