Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

You'd be absolutely floored how docile my car is to drive. I can lug it down to 800 rpm without protest or surging and it will pull to 6800 like a rotary engine. My car is my daily driver and I take it everywhere. I can even get 30mpgs with the a/c off. SD tuning really helps here.

Reliability comes from a good selection of parts, especially the valve springs. The Comp 921s are awesome and can take lots of miles, even with a high lift cam like mine.

In a nutshell, get as much lift with as little duration as you can and you should wind up with a nice idling motor that makes power everywhere. And don't take the cheap route on valve springs. Lots of details about my combination by clicking my signature.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

ok thanks a lot! Would i be best off buying a set of heads like darts persay or to get my current heads ported? And is the MS3 in specs to a good all around cam that your suggesting? Thanks alot. Id be very happy with about 425 to rears all motor and a mild 100 dry shot.

pushinfreight

With N02 that makes things different a bit. LS1 heads do not flow as well as LS6 heads. The Dart heads have very little information to go on at this point. From a money standpoint a set of LS6 style heads that were hand ported would be the most bang for the buck with current information available. I would get the heads first and get your flow numbers. Then choose the cam that will best utilize what the heads can flow. You will need to also take into concideration which intake you are going to use. You do not need crazy large valves just a solid 5 angle valve job and solid velocity numbers for your heads. I would not want them to go crazy on the heads if it is a daily driver. I would also try to keep your compression to about 11-11.2:1 max on a daily driver. A little copression is good for N02. You will not see any real NA power gains but that should make some difference with the spray. After that the power you make will all be in the tune. Your cam choice will determine where you make power and how much. Really it will all boil down to the tune.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

The subject title reads "fastest/biggest head/cam combo on stock LS1 and still be reliable". Nowhere did it say anything about a budget. Ported LS1 heads won't be as good as the clean sheet designs by many aftermarket companies like AFR and ET. The AFRs have made proven power for 2 years now. The ET heads look very good so far. The Darts are just too new to put them at the top of the heap at this point. Your subject did day FASTEST. Look at the fastest guys around (like Juggernaut and Magnus) and look what they're running. Look at the highest dynoing 346s and look what they're running. Most aren't running ported factory castings.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Yea the only problem when im looking around tho is most guys are on forged motors and what not. I am jsut looking to add heads and valvetrain to my stock LS1 with bolt ons and what not and get some damn good performance, dont want to skimp out.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Magnus and Jugger are on stock shortblocks. They both run 9.90s. Heads and cam.

As for me, my forged shortblock runs flat-top pistons with same deck height as stock. My valve reliefs actually cost me a bit of compression compared to stock though, but that's the price I pay for reliability on the spray.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok wow, ill def have to check out there set ups, im sure there VERY radical and not very street friendly however. Great numbers however! If i went a nice H/C combo id back it up with a small safe dry shot. nothing rediculous

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

I think you'd be surprised how driveable and reliable their setups are. Just ask them. Mine is the epitome of reliability and daily driving friendliness, IMO. I run a fairly small duration cam, but with lots of area under the curve due to it's fast ramps. The area under the curve along with killer heads make great power down low and up high.

Keep in mind, my car makes over 350 rwtq by 3,000 rpm. That's what a lot of torque-biased setups make, but those typically don't make much power above 6000 rpm. Mine does. So basically, I have the street manners of a small cammed setup along with the top-end charge of a big cammed setup. It's like having your cake and eating it too.

01bird58

iTrader: (9)

One of the sponsors TTPerformance reached 505 rwhp thru a 9" on a stock block H/C LS1. Just pointing out ther are packages out there with higher potential than 450ish.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

So patrick, you hit 470 rwhp from heads/cam and bolt ons! Thats very impressive. So basically, your set up is the ultimate street killer combo. If so, iwant, haha. Can you give me some more info and maybe some track times? Thanks!

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

Awesome!
What heads is he running and who ported them?
Can you give more info on that combo?

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

Sorry to here that another stock piston gave up.
Do you think that the coating may have added to the piston/ring problems?
Who ported your heads?

pushinfreight

I think that it was a combo of things, stock pcv system, high compression, big lift on milled heads(you can just barley see smileys forming on top of the pistons) and factory tollerances all added up to the problem. A local guy here in Tampa did the heads. I think his name was pete or something. RevXtreme ordered the heads for me. I really cannot complain, when you push things hard they break. The rebuild will totaly dial in for stock cube power and hold 200 dry hit so I will be real happy when it is done.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hey Patrick, how would you set up do on a stock block as i see your forged? I really like how your set up gives full power range and can run run at low rpms and still pull up top. So for example if i were to throw on the AFR 205 60cc heads and the TRak cam you have along with all the best valvetrain parts and finish bolt ons with headers and intake with 90/90, i would put down close to the same numbers as you minus a few mods and im an a4 but id still get that all around power for ultimate DD as you stated? Thanks!

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

If you put all my parts on a stock shortblock, you'd probably make slightly more power than me. The forged pistons have valve reliefs and give up some compression, plus the factory blocks seem to have a little less friction to them.

01bird58

iTrader: (9)

Here's the link, http://www.ttperformance.net/cars/bspz28/ , I believe their new best is a 10.33@130mph

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok thnaks a lot Patrick. I really like your set up and want to build my bolt ons around it. Think a 3800 stall would be suitable? also with proper tire and such, all motor, what times do you thin k i could achieve full weight approx and would this set up be 100 shot dry friendly?

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

I noticed you spoke of reliability because your car is a summer DD, but have you thought about "driveability"? I just pulled my Torquer 2 cam because I couldn't tune out all the kinks 100%. I am by no means an expert tuner, but I worked long and hard trying to get simple things taken care of like idle hunting, and bucking/surging at decel.

Can you live with a 950 rpm idle (you might have to with a big cam and an A4)? How about around the town streetability? You're gonna lose a good bit of the "tight", torquey feeling less overlap cams have to offer.

As far as the bucking and surging, you will have SOME (the degree of which is entirely dependant on how good your tune is). I have yet to see anyone on this site that has eliminated their bucking/surging completely with a big cam; you'll have to live with some.

BTW, if you wanna spray, you're gonna have to think long and hard about your TC choice as you'll need one built to handle the juice. I'm not sure how much stall is too much, cause I haven't done much research, but you'll have to find out.

I'm an extreme beginner when it comes to tuning, but I had a TSP tune to start with as a base and worked long and hard (15+ hours) just on idle/part throttle tuning and didn't get very far. I decided to ditch this cam (which is not considered big), in favor a more tame and driveable GT2-3.

Just some food for thought. I'm sure I'll catch some flack for my comments, but it's just my .02

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok thanks, yea the converter im getting has the anti-ballooning plates and what not and is nitrous friendly. Ill already lose some driveability with with stall and it will be loose. I dont care about low idle or some minor issues. Long as she pulls like a raped ape, a smile wont leave my face. I think a rumbly lopey idle is effin sweet.

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

Well, to me, the torquer 2 pulled like a son of a gun. Man, I had such a huge, TEMPORARY grin on my face from the power I was experiencing. That was until I had to snap back to reality and realize that I'd spend 99% of my time at part throttle where my surging and idle sucked ***.

Seriously though, there are a lot of guys that are very happy with their big cams and have had great success with them. Get a dead-nuts on tune, and you'll probably be good to go. I just didn't think the driveability trade-off was worth it TO ME.