can an OEM ls1 block handle 1000rwhp?
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Why would anyone risk all this $$$$$ on a stock block??? 
Some of the questions you guys ask
Some of the questions you guys ask
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying
Originally Posted by y2khawk
Why not? I haven't seen/heard of anyone breaking them yet. Hell, I ran mine with a stock crank.
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying
Brandon
What I've read and PM'd people about is this:
LS1/LS6 block beyond 700rwhp that is in a daily driver will eventually lose ring seal. Honing the bores and installing new rings cures this. If it is a race car only you won't put enuf miles on it anyway to have this occur.
LS2 blocks don't have this problem due to a different design. There are quite a few making 1000rwhp and actually driving them on the street with stock sleeves (for how many miles I don't know).
If you plan to make over 650rwhp go LS2 or iron block. Cheap insurance.
I can't wait to see what kind of power Matt is going to make. Should be wild.
LS1/LS6 block beyond 700rwhp that is in a daily driver will eventually lose ring seal. Honing the bores and installing new rings cures this. If it is a race car only you won't put enuf miles on it anyway to have this occur.
LS2 blocks don't have this problem due to a different design. There are quite a few making 1000rwhp and actually driving them on the street with stock sleeves (for how many miles I don't know).
If you plan to make over 650rwhp go LS2 or iron block. Cheap insurance.
I can't wait to see what kind of power Matt is going to make. Should be wild.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Keller, Texas
Originally Posted by y2khawk
Why not? I haven't seen/heard of anyone breaking them yet. Hell, I ran mine with a stock crank.
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying
...when i grow up i want to be you!
My setup is slowly going together and will see 1100 rwhp minimum and see a good bit of street duty and lots of track action stock ls6 block,stock treated,crank and forged internals
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Keller, Texas
Originally Posted by fash00
My setup is slowly going together and will see 1100 rwhp minimum and see a good bit of street duty and lots of track action stock ls6 block,stock treated,crank and forged internals
sounds liek a cool setup...any more details?
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Why would anyone risk all this $$$$$ on a stock block???
Some of the questions you guys ask
Some of the questions you guys ask
I would be more worried about getting oil through the motor than whether or not the block will hold it. I don't think I've heard of anyone actually breaking a block. The problem is oiling, keeping the heads down, and after market sleeve problems (that have seem to have gotten better over the years).
You guys shooting for 1000 + RWHP I guess your all running dry sumps?
You guys shooting for 1000 + RWHP I guess your all running dry sumps?
Originally Posted by DOC OTIS
I would be more worried about getting oil through the motor than whether or not the block will hold it. I don't think I've heard of anyone actually breaking a block. The problem is oiling, keeping the heads down, and after market sleeve problems (that have seem to have gotten better over the years).
You guys shooting for 1000 + RWHP I guess your all running dry sumps?
You guys shooting for 1000 + RWHP I guess your all running dry sumps?
Nope, Paul's TT motor is still a stock oil system with the exception for the tyrbo oil pick up and return.
The Will Handzell book, "How to build High Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s", has an entire chapter (#9) on building a gen III 1200 HP engine. They are using the C5R block and give part numbers for the whole thing, with fifteen pages of instructions and pictures on this "how-to."
Enjoy,
Mike
Enjoy,
Mike
Here is one thing you might want to add to it if you are using an ls1 block for that power level :
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=dmegstls1|0
It's pricey , but it will help .
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=dmegstls1|0
It's pricey , but it will help .
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832
Originally Posted by New Era Performance
Here is one thing you might want to add to it if you are using an ls1 block for that power level :
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=dmegstls1|0
It's pricey , but it will help .
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=dmegstls1|0
It's pricey , but it will help .
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: west aust,australia
there are a few 1000+rwhp LS1 cars down under,but they all run the iron block.problems with the stock block have been seen at around the 670/700rwhp mark.the current horsepower hero ran 1200+rwhp on a twin turbo set up,there is a ute running 1000+rwhp [used for drift comps] running a vortech v7 blower,another ute/crewman from the same stable as drift ute has gone 1000+rwhp running another vortech for promo use,then there is a vx ss running a pro charger hes knocking on 1000+rwhp and is driven on the streets daily.a few other but they are the ones that come to mind 
I'm told that the caps will be fine, but the cylinder bores in the LS1/LS6 will need a hone after a season. I'm told the LS2, since it's siamese bore, holds up better. We'll see.
The Ohio boys original motor was an LS1 block and it made 1150fwhp. We usually use iron for high HP app's. We regualarly dyno engines over 1000fwhp in our facility Some are over 1500fwhp.
Some are over 1500fwhp.