can an OEM ls1 block handle 1000rwhp?
#24
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Why would anyone risk all this $$$$$ on a stock block???
Some of the questions you guys ask![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
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C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
Why not? I haven't seen/heard of anyone breaking them yet. Hell, I ran mine with a stock crank.
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Brandon
#26
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What I've read and PM'd people about is this:
LS1/LS6 block beyond 700rwhp that is in a daily driver will eventually lose ring seal. Honing the bores and installing new rings cures this. If it is a race car only you won't put enuf miles on it anyway to have this occur.
LS2 blocks don't have this problem due to a different design. There are quite a few making 1000rwhp and actually driving them on the street with stock sleeves (for how many miles I don't know).
If you plan to make over 650rwhp go LS2 or iron block. Cheap insurance.
I can't wait to see what kind of power Matt is going to make. Should be wild.
LS1/LS6 block beyond 700rwhp that is in a daily driver will eventually lose ring seal. Honing the bores and installing new rings cures this. If it is a race car only you won't put enuf miles on it anyway to have this occur.
LS2 blocks don't have this problem due to a different design. There are quite a few making 1000rwhp and actually driving them on the street with stock sleeves (for how many miles I don't know).
If you plan to make over 650rwhp go LS2 or iron block. Cheap insurance.
I can't wait to see what kind of power Matt is going to make. Should be wild.
#27
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
Why not? I haven't seen/heard of anyone breaking them yet. Hell, I ran mine with a stock crank.
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
C5R is overrated IMO, an LS7 will only get you cubes. The WP block is still vapor-ware at this point.
So what's left, stock aluminum or stock iron.
For me, i'm worried about the weight, so my new motor is an LS2 block. I finally stuck a real crank in it though. And word is i should have the long block in a week or 2. Kurt's been bugging me to put it on the dyno at W2W. I will lean on it until I see atleast 1500 at the crank, or split it in half trying
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
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My setup is slowly going together and will see 1100 rwhp minimum and see a good bit of street duty and lots of track action stock ls6 block,stock treated,crank and forged internals
#29
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Originally Posted by fash00
My setup is slowly going together and will see 1100 rwhp minimum and see a good bit of street duty and lots of track action stock ls6 block,stock treated,crank and forged internals
sounds liek a cool setup...any more details?
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Why would anyone risk all this $$$$$ on a stock block???
Some of the questions you guys ask![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
Some of the questions you guys ask
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
#31
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I would be more worried about getting oil through the motor than whether or not the block will hold it. I don't think I've heard of anyone actually breaking a block. The problem is oiling, keeping the heads down, and after market sleeve problems (that have seem to have gotten better over the years).
You guys shooting for 1000 + RWHP I guess your all running dry sumps?
You guys shooting for 1000 + RWHP I guess your all running dry sumps?
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Originally Posted by DOC OTIS
I would be more worried about getting oil through the motor than whether or not the block will hold it. I don't think I've heard of anyone actually breaking a block. The problem is oiling, keeping the heads down, and after market sleeve problems (that have seem to have gotten better over the years).
You guys shooting for 1000 + RWHP I guess your all running dry sumps?
You guys shooting for 1000 + RWHP I guess your all running dry sumps?
Nope, Paul's TT motor is still a stock oil system with the exception for the tyrbo oil pick up and return.
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The Will Handzell book, "How to build High Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s", has an entire chapter (#9) on building a gen III 1200 HP engine. They are using the C5R block and give part numbers for the whole thing, with fifteen pages of instructions and pictures on this "how-to."
Enjoy,
Mike
Enjoy,
Mike
#35
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Here is one thing you might want to add to it if you are using an ls1 block for that power level :
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=dmegstls1|0
It's pricey , but it will help .
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=dmegstls1|0
It's pricey , but it will help .
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832
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Originally Posted by New Era Performance
Here is one thing you might want to add to it if you are using an ls1 block for that power level :
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=dmegstls1|0
It's pricey , but it will help .
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=dmegstls1|0
It's pricey , but it will help .
Mike
www.neweraperformanceparts.com
sales@neweraperformanceparts.com
585-865-1832
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there are a few 1000+rwhp LS1 cars down under,but they all run the iron block.problems with the stock block have been seen at around the 670/700rwhp mark.the current horsepower hero ran 1200+rwhp on a twin turbo set up,there is a ute running 1000+rwhp [used for drift comps] running a vortech v7 blower,another ute/crewman from the same stable as drift ute has gone 1000+rwhp running another vortech for promo use,then there is a vx ss running a pro charger hes knocking on 1000+rwhp and is driven on the streets daily.a few other but they are the ones that come to mind
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#39
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I'm told that the caps will be fine, but the cylinder bores in the LS1/LS6 will need a hone after a season. I'm told the LS2, since it's siamese bore, holds up better. We'll see.