newbie wanting cam
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Abilene, TX
newbie wanting cam i have a stock ws6
i will be getting pacesetter lt's and a cutout before i get a cam
im looking to go cam only and was wondering in your opinions what is the biggest streetable cam i could go w/
also, what all is involved w/ replacing the cam, what else will i need to buy, i will have it professionally installed
also, how much do installs usually run?
i will be getting pacesetter lt's and a cutout before i get a cam
im looking to go cam only and was wondering in your opinions what is the biggest streetable cam i could go w/
also, what all is involved w/ replacing the cam, what else will i need to buy, i will have it professionally installed
also, how much do installs usually run?
www.ls1howto.com is all you need to study up on before doing a cam swap. Read the cam guide sticky by JRP as well. If you want a shop to do it, it will usually run from 400-600 for labor.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 531
Likes: 0
From: Helendale, Ca (SilverLakes)
Depends on what you call "Streetable". Some guys like "stealth" cams so you can tell everyone that you are stock. Some guys run cams so big that you have to be a Pro Bull Rider just to stay in the car as it bucks and rocks from side to side when it idles.
You will need a Cam Change gasket set, cam and springs.
Installs run from $250-$400. You will have to check several shops.
I had my install done at RPM Motorsports in Lewisville, Tx.
You will need a Cam Change gasket set, cam and springs.
Installs run from $250-$400. You will have to check several shops.
I had my install done at RPM Motorsports in Lewisville, Tx.
All the cams that i have seen mentioned in here can be tuned to drive stock....So i don't see the reason for all the streetable comments on larger than the norm. Cam only T-rex with right bolt-ons and weight will net you a 10 second pass.
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Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 337
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From: Abilene, TX
this is a great site, 12 minutes after i post and i have 5 replies
the whole bull riding thing seems a little excessive, but i want everyone to know its there
this is my only car, so if i drive in to town, im stuck w/ it, if i drive back home(3 hour drive at 75), im stuck w/ it
it has to be that streetable
but i hear a lot of talk about cams being streetable and not being streetable, what are the diferences in one that is streetable and isnt
the whole bull riding thing seems a little excessive, but i want everyone to know its there
this is my only car, so if i drive in to town, im stuck w/ it, if i drive back home(3 hour drive at 75), im stuck w/ it
it has to be that streetable
but i hear a lot of talk about cams being streetable and not being streetable, what are the diferences in one that is streetable and isnt
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Verdad Gallardo streetable is all about what you can put up with. With the tuners out there nowadays, it is fairly easy to daily drive just about any cam. IT IS ALL ABOUT YOU AND WHAT YOU THINK IS STREETABLE!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Abilene, TX
right, but i have never been around a car w/ a high performance cam, and definately havent been in one
what kind of stuff do u have to put up w/
i do have a standard, dont know if that chagnes anything there
what kind of stuff do u have to put up w/
i do have a standard, dont know if that chagnes anything there
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 7
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From: Durham
You have to decide what you can deal with. Gas milage, idling, whether you are going to be doing a lot of stop and go driving or not, etc.
Figure out if you can deal with a little loopy idle, and having to give the car a little more gas to take off.
If you have a 6 speed, the gas milage may not go down drasticly. A auto may offer a bigger drop. If you wanna get serious, take the car to a good shop, have them install a mild cam, and have it tuned. You would not even be able to hear/feel the difference when cruising, and may just barely notice it at idle.
Get your exhaust and cut out, lid, and boring your stock TB would all help. With those long tubes, a few more minor things, the cam, and a tune, you could easily see 350-360 to the wheels.
Figure out if you can deal with a little loopy idle, and having to give the car a little more gas to take off.
If you have a 6 speed, the gas milage may not go down drasticly. A auto may offer a bigger drop. If you wanna get serious, take the car to a good shop, have them install a mild cam, and have it tuned. You would not even be able to hear/feel the difference when cruising, and may just barely notice it at idle.
Get your exhaust and cut out, lid, and boring your stock TB would all help. With those long tubes, a few more minor things, the cam, and a tune, you could easily see 350-360 to the wheels.
I have a big cam like the t-rex and yes it does buck but i dont have the greatest tune..It has not even seen a dyno. The only reason it does this is because I still have the stock ratio: 3.42. If you get a big cam get a bigger stall or a taller gear set. the t-rex will need at the least a 3.73 but cant hurt with a 4.10.
Ok look. You live in DFW for the most part. There are a few places that I can think of off hand that can tune your car just fine with a bigger cam. One of them being SQR...which I highly suggest. They are a site sponsor as well so you can get all the info right about over here -------------------------------> Looks like this
Ok look. You live in DFW for the most part. There are a few places that I can think of off hand that can tune your car just fine with a bigger cam. One of them being SQR...which I highly suggest. They are a site sponsor as well so you can get all the info right about over here -------------------------------> Looks like this
I'm planning to use a TR224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA. From what I've read, I expect this cam to satisfy my needs on my DD M6 Z28. Once it is tuned it should have decent manners and plenty of power in a streetable RPM range.
I thinking this cam is also a good choice with respect to wear. The lift is not that big and the duration is not super short, and I figure that this makes for a reasonable ramp rate. (I'm not sure on this, and I need to research some more.)
I thinking this cam is also a good choice with respect to wear. The lift is not that big and the duration is not super short, and I figure that this makes for a reasonable ramp rate. (I'm not sure on this, and I need to research some more.)
F15 is pretty big.
What you are wanting is a cam with some overlap and still be able to perform.
the more overlap the more lope is the general rule of thumb.
Here is the equation for determining overlap*
(Int DUR + Exht DUR)/2 - (2 x LSA) = * Overlap at duration used.
My cam has 16* of overlap. 244/248 .598/.598 115
the T-Rex has 25* 242/248 .608/.612 110
Here is what mine sounds like:
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....2-40F197C69F3F
What you are wanting is a cam with some overlap and still be able to perform.
the more overlap the more lope is the general rule of thumb.
Here is the equation for determining overlap*
(Int DUR + Exht DUR)/2 - (2 x LSA) = * Overlap at duration used.
My cam has 16* of overlap. 244/248 .598/.598 115
the T-Rex has 25* 242/248 .608/.612 110
Here is what mine sounds like:
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....2-40F197C69F3F
Originally Posted by jwhert
those f14's andf 15's arent as big as the ms3 and t rex are they?
im still struggling w/ all the numbers and waht they mean
im still struggling w/ all the numbers and waht they mean
Ok, I will help you break it down:
This is the F14 - FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 232"/234" .598"/.598" 112LSA
Intake Dur is 232
Exhaust Dur is 234
Lift intake .598
Lift Exhaust .598
Lobe Separation Angle = 112
This cam has 9* of overlap.
It will tend to have a lope to it.
Originally Posted by jwhert
newbie question..whats bucking and surging?
tunes cost a lot of money, i looked on sqr's site
tunes cost a lot of money, i looked on sqr's site
Bucking and Surging can happen but can be tuned to not do either.
Bucking will happen when you are in too low of an RPM range and the car is literally jerking back and forth ( feels like it wants to choke and die).
Surging can happen mainly at idle, but should not occur on a tuned properly motor. You will see your RPMS come up to around 1000 and drop to 500 and below in some instances. Sometimes cars do that on a cold start when it is freezing outside. But even then a tune can fix that problem. I can tell you right now if you want a decent sized cam you are gonna want a tune or you will only be leaving power and comfort on the table. Plus a stock tuned car can have better results than an untuned cammed car.