obZidian

iTrader: (2)

pushrods? Hmm.... lets hope this is the fix and that you didn't bend a valve.

Good luck!!

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Well it wasn't ETs problem, I had the pushrods and thought they were the right ones. I am going to get a pushrod checker tool to find out what size I rally need so it'll be a day or so until its all done, but measuring the preload of these from zero lash it comes up that the stock ones are too long also so I'll have to wait and see.

Orange Terror

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Check it out, if you're still using your stock rockers, the best way to set preload is after you check your pushrod length at zero lash with your rockers torqued down to spec at 22 ftlbs, just add the desired preload to your pushrod length and you're golden. So, lets say if you measure you need 7.3" pushrods and you want .025 of COLD preload, get 7.325" pushrods! ITs that easy! Like everyone else said as well, throw your old plugs on, get MSD wires, and swap out with proper pushrods, and you'll be roaring!

Best of Luck!
Adrian

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Alright guys well I measured with a pushrod length tool and I need a set of 7.300 pushrods, I'll be picking them up tonite from Greg at ETP, he has a set at his house. We'll see if the beast runs after that.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Ok well heres teh update. Last night I went out and got the new pushrods, rushed back and put them in and tested for compression. That was good so we reassembled the car and went to fire it up again. Battery ws dead, so we gave it a jump off my friend's truck and it fired right up. Sounded wicked at first and had to burn off all that fuel that built up in there but man it was a rush. Let it run for like 10 minutes to burn off everything and finish smoking and learn its idle, then it started to very slowly get hot until it went above 210. So I shut her down and tried a few more times while pouring in more coolant and water and it never seemed to drop. So my next issue is why is it getting so hot? I know I have more coolant than water in there but would that cause it to run so hot? I have a 98 so my temp gauge reads correctly and HPtuners verified that too any ideas?

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

You have an air pocket in the system. Pull off the Throttle body coolant hose and let it sit with it off for a minute or two. That is the highest point in the block and will help bleed any air out of it. Give the upper radiator hose, (the return from the waterpump) a squeeze with the cap on and it should push some more coolant into the block. If the coolant goes down alittle keep adding coolant until it starts to come out of the hose. Reattach the hoses and start it up. Turn on the heater full blast and just keep an eye on it but don't worry too much if it goes alittle above 210. Maybe give the thermostat housing a gentle tap with a small hammer or something after you get it hot like that and shut it down. Perhaps it's alittle sticky from sitting dry for a few days. Glad to see you got it running, you're almost home. Alittle bit of spirted driving will help to bleed it out also. I had to pull the intake manifold on my dodge ram to take care of a leaking plenium gasket and after I got it back together and running it consumed about 1/2 a gallon of coolant after I took it for a short drive. Glad to hear you got it worked out. Now you know a few more things LOL.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Thanks I'll be sure to do that, I started it up again this morning and the temp gauge sat right above 210 but didn't move after that. I added coolant since last night and then some more just now so I have a feeling that it'll go down more now. I'm just happy that it started and seems to run just fine mechanically, a little more valvetrain noise but that was expected. Can't wait for the first drive, hopefully today if all goes well.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

OK well it was an air pocket. I added some more coolant and took it for a spin around the block and it was sitting right between 160 and 210, where it usually is. Just can't wait to break it in a see what it can really do. Thanks for all of the help guys its really appreciated.

MagikMan

iTrader: (2)

YAY!!! I bet you are really going to love your car now... you've "bonded" with it lately, and will have a way higher appreciation for it Good job LS1TECH!

FLAWLS1T/A

iTrader: (1)

good work guys!

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Awesome job man, glad to hear and read all is well!! Also glad to hear your coil packs were fine.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

AWESOME!!!

congrates, glad to see her running. I know it sucks to ahve the motor down and like it was said, you have bonded and you'll have a higer respect and aprechiaction for it.

The coolant thing is normal. When i gauge the temp with hp tuners, 210, the middle line right?, is more like 220-230.

DO you have the stock temp sensor? If not, swap that out for a 160 temp sensor. Also. with your software, adjust your fan turn-on temp to maybe 165 for one, 175 for both. That is what i have it one and even though my car gets HOT, it runs better than before...

good luck and congrates again brotha, let the fun begin!!!!!

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

this must of been the longest thread that i've ever read but boy did i learn things from reading it.. specially how a simple component such as a pushrod can make an engine react how it did.. overall i think everyones opinion on the problem where good guesses but good thing it was something simple..

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

knowing this, now i am concerned about the valve springs and the lifters. obviously the valvesprings and lifters saw a little more stress than normal during this episode. if you have a dial indicator, i suggest that you check the lift at the valve. this will ensure that the cam lobes are probably okay. i dont know how much cranking you did, but i doubt you did enough to wear out the cam lobes. best of luck, friend, and whatever happens from here on out, at least you know you can fix it yourself.

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

Eh, if I was a betting man I would say he's AOK. If it would have hurt anything it would probiably have been a spring. Do the math, and it can be scary if the 7.3 pushrod is the exact pushrod. If it would have bound up a spring he would have known it more than likely. Those springs were probiably good to .650 lift which would have allowed him to be .040 over on the pushrod length no problem with that cam. More than likely I think the 7.3 pushrod is probiably too short because he says he has valvetrain noise BUT he got it running thats the start. The factory lifter is very forgiving. He might want to check the pushrod length again because 7.3 is awful short for what is normally seen. Anyways, if he checks it again and it turns out that he is actually supposed to run a set of 7.350's or even 7.375's then he is probiably more than likely ok. If 7.3's or even 7.325's are dead nuts on he would have probiably punched a valve into a piston, so he couldn't have been off by much by my figuring. He has about .04 of playroom in the lift of the cam if you take .650 coil bind into account plus the lifters weren't fully pumped up ect ect. I wouldn't lose sleep over it. If it were to come apart it would have done so by now most likely. If he wants to check it wouldn't hurt him at all, and it might be a good idea for somebody with alittle more knowledge to check the lengths for him but it has been a good learning experience for him that's for sure.