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Timing Marks 1 tooth off??

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Old 02-28-2006, 11:45 PM
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It's a perfectly safe and efficient method if you perform it correctly (e.g. only using the bolt to get the pulley started enough to use the stock bolt, not cranking on the bolt until it gets lodged all the way in the crank and screws up the threads). Not trying to say the guy is a stupid moron, however it was a user mistake, not a mistake by method.
Old 03-01-2006, 12:13 AM
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Common sense would tell you longer bolts won't fit in all the way. I've done it that way every time and never had a problem.

Can anyone chime in who has had this problem?
Old 03-01-2006, 08:44 AM
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When I reinstalled mine, I heated the inside of the pulley. It slipped on almost 3/4 of the way, then I used the stuck bult to pull it the rest. It's worked several times for me without a problem. I wouldn't recommend any other way to do it now.
Old 03-01-2006, 12:24 PM
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Sorry about the crank threads

Now to pevent this from happening there are two LS1 specific tools that everyone should have in their garage.

1) Kent Moore flywheel locking tool

2) Kent Moore crank pulley/seal installer

For M6 cars the flywheel locking tool isn't necessary but is a must when removing or installing a crank pulley on a A4 vehicle.

I think both tools cost me less than $200.00 but they are an investment and will prevent costly damage and will ensure proper torque when making the final pass on the crank bolt.

I hope he gets it sorted out and back on the road.
Old 03-01-2006, 08:56 PM
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Richie: Where do we get those tools? that would be helpful.

Ski
Old 03-01-2006, 09:05 PM
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I don't get what the big problem is with just spending $2 on a longer bolt from NAPA just to get the pulley started. If you can't thread a bolt into a hole without lodging it in there, I think there may be bigger issues at hand.
Old 03-01-2006, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelord
Richie: Where do we get those tools? that would be helpful.

Ski
www.spxkentmoore.com

Just request a catalog and look up the part numbers. I got my tools a long time ago and I let a friend of mine borrow my catalog a couple of years back and haven't seen it since.

They are the same tools the dealers use.
Old 03-01-2006, 09:32 PM
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If it's not totally stripped out, try to chase it with the correct size tap. Then when you reinstall the pulley and put the bolt on put red loc-tite on it. This will keep it from backing out.

If it's stripped bad. You have to go the next size bigger which means it will have to be redrilled and tapped. I don't think it will mess with balance because pulley weight doesn't affect balance.

All I can think of good luck.
Old 03-01-2006, 11:17 PM
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Here's the deal. I've done this with mine before (it's a mistake and happens, especially at the end of a long night of wrenching)

get a tap (you'll have to special order it, it's pretty big, haha) and run that through. If it works then you're golden

if not, give Helicoil a call. They're pretty stout and oughta hold it fine.

Or you can drill and tap it out to a bigger bolt size and get a bigger bolt from ARP.
Old 03-02-2006, 09:30 AM
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Richie, no love for the screwdriver as the flywheel locking tool
Old 03-02-2006, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
So another crank gets fucked up with the longer bolt method. Way to go to everyone who still recommends doing it that way.
Way to go, you just managed to **** me off. Rather than saying "Hey I have a tool that I've developed that will help avoid this problem PM me for details", you come in here and talk down to everybody. What a way to advertise! FU too.
Old 03-02-2006, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kossuth
Way to go, you just managed to **** me off. Rather than saying "Hey I have a tool that I've developed that will help avoid this problem PM me for details", you come in here and talk down to everybody. What a way to advertise! FU too.
Well if you are one of the people that still recomend to other members to use the longer bolt rather than use all thread, then my comment IS directed at you. If you're not, then you're getting upset over nothing. This is not a plug for my tool. I quit selling them for over a year because I got tired of arguing with the longer bolt proponents. I'm just tired of seeing people **** up their crank threads. It's been going on for years.
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Old 03-03-2006, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 777
Richie, no love for the screwdriver as the flywheel locking tool


At least the locking tool won't fall out while you're torquing the crank bolt to 240ftlbs.
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Old 03-03-2006, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
I'm just tired of seeing people **** up their crank threads.
I think that goes 2 ways. 1 on here, and 2 on the car.

FWIW: I have personally used Glen's tool and there is no way you can **** your threads up with it. Beats the hell out of the "longer bolt method".
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Old 04-07-2024, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Timing is referenced at the crank sprocket, not the cam, hence the timing marks on the aftermarket crank sprockets. One tooth on a crank sprocket is 2 degrees. You are right on the one tooth on the cam sprocket being 8 degrees, but I personally don't think this guy is adjusting his timing using the cam gear. If he was 8 degrees off, bye bye valves/pistons.
Why do you say that?
Off by 1 tooth, valves and piston?
Do tell please
Old 04-07-2024, 10:04 PM
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You're replying to an 18-year old thread, BUT ArcticZ28 was around late last month. You might get lucky....
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