Timing Marks 1 tooth off??
#21
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It's a perfectly safe and efficient method if you perform it correctly (e.g. only using the bolt to get the pulley started enough to use the stock bolt, not cranking on the bolt until it gets lodged all the way in the crank and screws up the threads). Not trying to say the guy is a stupid moron, however it was a user mistake, not a mistake by method.
#23
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When I reinstalled mine, I heated the inside of the pulley. It slipped on almost 3/4 of the way, then I used the stuck bult to pull it the rest. It's worked several times for me without a problem. I wouldn't recommend any other way to do it now.
#24
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Sorry about the crank threads
Now to pevent this from happening there are two LS1 specific tools that everyone should have in their garage.
1) Kent Moore flywheel locking tool
2) Kent Moore crank pulley/seal installer
For M6 cars the flywheel locking tool isn't necessary but is a must when removing or installing a crank pulley on a A4 vehicle.
I think both tools cost me less than $200.00 but they are an investment and will prevent costly damage and will ensure proper torque when making the final pass on the crank bolt.
I hope he gets it sorted out and back on the road.
Now to pevent this from happening there are two LS1 specific tools that everyone should have in their garage.
1) Kent Moore flywheel locking tool
2) Kent Moore crank pulley/seal installer
For M6 cars the flywheel locking tool isn't necessary but is a must when removing or installing a crank pulley on a A4 vehicle.
I think both tools cost me less than $200.00 but they are an investment and will prevent costly damage and will ensure proper torque when making the final pass on the crank bolt.
I hope he gets it sorted out and back on the road.
#27
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Originally Posted by Rebelord
Richie: Where do we get those tools? that would be helpful.
Ski
Ski
Just request a catalog and look up the part numbers. I got my tools a long time ago and I let a friend of mine borrow my catalog a couple of years back and haven't seen it since.
They are the same tools the dealers use.
#28
If it's not totally stripped out, try to chase it with the correct size tap. Then when you reinstall the pulley and put the bolt on put red loc-tite on it. This will keep it from backing out.
If it's stripped bad. You have to go the next size bigger which means it will have to be redrilled and tapped. I don't think it will mess with balance because pulley weight doesn't affect balance.
All I can think of good luck.
If it's stripped bad. You have to go the next size bigger which means it will have to be redrilled and tapped. I don't think it will mess with balance because pulley weight doesn't affect balance.
All I can think of good luck.
#29
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Here's the deal. I've done this with mine before (it's a mistake and happens, especially at the end of a long night of wrenching)
get a tap (you'll have to special order it, it's pretty big, haha) and run that through. If it works then you're golden
if not, give Helicoil a call. They're pretty stout and oughta hold it fine.
Or you can drill and tap it out to a bigger bolt size and get a bigger bolt from ARP.
get a tap (you'll have to special order it, it's pretty big, haha) and run that through. If it works then you're golden
if not, give Helicoil a call. They're pretty stout and oughta hold it fine.
Or you can drill and tap it out to a bigger bolt size and get a bigger bolt from ARP.
#31
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
So another crank gets fucked up with the longer bolt method. Way to go to everyone who still recommends doing it that way.
#32
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Originally Posted by kossuth
Way to go, you just managed to **** me off. Rather than saying "Hey I have a tool that I've developed that will help avoid this problem PM me for details", you come in here and talk down to everybody. What a way to advertise! FU too.
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Dopeydinerdog (09-14-2022)
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Dopeydinerdog (09-14-2022)
#34
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
I'm just tired of seeing people **** up their crank threads.
FWIW: I have personally used Glen's tool and there is no way you can **** your threads up with it. Beats the hell out of the "longer bolt method".
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Dopeydinerdog (09-14-2022)
#35
Timing is referenced at the crank sprocket, not the cam, hence the timing marks on the aftermarket crank sprockets. One tooth on a crank sprocket is 2 degrees. You are right on the one tooth on the cam sprocket being 8 degrees, but I personally don't think this guy is adjusting his timing using the cam gear. If he was 8 degrees off, bye bye valves/pistons.
Off by 1 tooth, valves and piston?
Do tell please
#36
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You're replying to an 18-year old thread, BUT ArcticZ28 was around late last month. You might get lucky....
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DDCLOYD001 (04-07-2024)