Head gaskets leaking after new heads...
Head gaskets leaking after new heads... I just installed new heads on my motor and they're leaking coolant as soon as the pressure in the system comes up. The heads were cut just enough to clean them up but it looked alittle "coarse" is it possible to cut them to coarse? I used stock mls head gaskets. I torqued them to 22 Ftlbs and then 76* and then another 76*. Did I do something wrong?
Is there any way to fix this with out new bolt and gaskets?
Is there any way to fix this with out new bolt and gaskets?
It's an iron block so I scraped it with a razor blade until it was spotless and washed it with some brake clean. I had a problem similar to this with a sbc and some copper head gaskets I used some wynns additive and it stopped should I try it again?
Originally Posted by joshluther
I just installed new heads on my motor and they're leaking coolant as soon as the pressure in the system comes up. The heads were cut just enough to clean them up but it looked alittle "coarse" is it possible to cut them to coarse? I used stock mls head gaskets. I torqued them to 22 Ftlbs and then 76* and then another 76*. Did I do something wrong?
Is there any way to fix this with out new bolt and gaskets?
Is there any way to fix this with out new bolt and gaskets?
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LS1howto generalizes by telling you to do 90 and the another 90. The factory torque angle specs were an odd number. It may have been 76. I feel that the issue is indeed with the roughness of the cut. Having recently milled down my own heads, you have to make sure all the inserts on the face mill are the same height. If they used "stepped" inserts, or if the level inserts were worn or beat up, youll get a rough surface. I took emory cloth and a sanding block to mine, followed by a stone to get a very flat surface. I also used the MLS gaskets.
Originally Posted by joshluther
Thanks MSGHUFF I'll have to try that first. I used the specs found in Will Hanzel's "Ls1 How to book" but I have found alot of misinformation in it.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
from service manual:
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J36660.
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence to using the J36660.
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J36660.
Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence to using the J36660.
The block is a 2004 Iron 5.3 block the large bolts are all the same length so I tightened them all the same. I don't think there is anything wrong with the block surface it only has 15,000 on it.
I'm gonna try tightening them to 180* total. If that doesn't work I'll go with some Wynns it says it good for weeping cylinder head gaskets and it's worked before for me.
I should have checked the factory manual for torque specs and should have went with my gut and had the machine shop smooth them out some more...
I'm gonna try tightening them to 180* total. If that doesn't work I'll go with some Wynns it says it good for weeping cylinder head gaskets and it's worked before for me.
I should have checked the factory manual for torque specs and should have went with my gut and had the machine shop smooth them out some more...
It's leaking so slowly it's tough to say were it's coming from. Running it for a half hour it'll leave a spot the size of a dime. But it won't build any pressure in the radiator.
