how to tell if there is a spun bearing
03-08-2006, 09:26 AM
#41
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The story goes that he bought the block from a dealership that had pulled that motor because it was making a ticking sound. They told him that it was probably a spun bearing. He ended up never doing anything with the engine and sold it to me. So im guess the dealer pulled it because they were hearing some piston slap and decided to just change the motor instead of investing the money to dig into this one. But the bores are clean and the bearings just have what looks like normal wear so all is good.
One thing. When I was pulling one of the mains that was kinda sticking it popped loose and fell into the engine. The only thing it hit was the very bottom edge of one of the cylinders. Didnt hit the bore just the very very edge. It made a small metal dent. I dont think it will do anything but what do you guys think?
One thing. When I was pulling one of the mains that was kinda sticking it popped loose and fell into the engine. The only thing it hit was the very bottom edge of one of the cylinders. Didnt hit the bore just the very very edge. It made a small metal dent. I dont think it will do anything but what do you guys think?
03-08-2006, 11:32 AM
#42
If it is the very very bottom then I would probiably take a large half round file and just basically debur it. One or two quick hits will probiably knock it back into line. I'm not certain if the piston comes down that far in the bore with a stock crank or not But in any event rings don't come down that far so you should be ok as long as it's deburred.
So it was a slapper huh? Now is a good time to figure out what you want to do. I'd probiably consider having it bored but that isn't the end all be all eithor. I'd have a shop check out the piston to bore clearance and the main crank bore and go from there. The mains will probiably check out ok, but just make sure. "Sigh" have the shop check the bores for both piston to bore clearance and out of round. Alot of the slapper motors are out of round also. I hate to say this but it may need to be bored. This isn't the end all be all because you might get it to the shop and it might be perfectly fine, but then again it might not be. I'd be prepared for that expense. If you can hone the cylinders and put new rings back on and go that would be awesome. IF the clearance is on the high side of things when it would be honed then you can get the pistons teflon coated for about $20 a slug or so. You could just reuse your old rings (which is what GM does for it's warranty work) but I don't recommend that. Doesn't make much sense to me to put old parts back in a motor that is having a clearance problem from the get go.
Word of caution on the bearings. I don't know if I covered this in the other thread but you will probiably want .001 + bearings from Federal Mogal if you get bearings from them. Have the crank polished $50 and see what the specs on it are. Definately go .001 if the crank is on the low side of what is tolerable. I think that covers most of what you will need to check.
So it was a slapper huh? Now is a good time to figure out what you want to do. I'd probiably consider having it bored but that isn't the end all be all eithor. I'd have a shop check out the piston to bore clearance and the main crank bore and go from there. The mains will probiably check out ok, but just make sure. "Sigh" have the shop check the bores for both piston to bore clearance and out of round. Alot of the slapper motors are out of round also. I hate to say this but it may need to be bored. This isn't the end all be all because you might get it to the shop and it might be perfectly fine, but then again it might not be. I'd be prepared for that expense. If you can hone the cylinders and put new rings back on and go that would be awesome. IF the clearance is on the high side of things when it would be honed then you can get the pistons teflon coated for about $20 a slug or so. You could just reuse your old rings (which is what GM does for it's warranty work) but I don't recommend that. Doesn't make much sense to me to put old parts back in a motor that is having a clearance problem from the get go.
Word of caution on the bearings. I don't know if I covered this in the other thread but you will probiably want .001 + bearings from Federal Mogal if you get bearings from them. Have the crank polished $50 and see what the specs on it are. Definately go .001 if the crank is on the low side of what is tolerable. I think that covers most of what you will need to check.
03-08-2006, 12:54 PM
#45
Originally Posted by 92zcamaroperson
cool thats what I was thinking. Its very small.
Q: Is it worth upgrading to arp main studs? Or are the factory ones sufficient for a ~400hp rear wheel motor?
Q: Is it worth upgrading to arp main studs? Or are the factory ones sufficient for a ~400hp rear wheel motor?
i wouldnt upgrade the main caps without having them checked afterword by a shop... unlike the rods, they arnt cracked caps, even though they are rather well located.
03-08-2006, 01:57 PM
#49
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im pretty much gonna just put it all back together with new main and rod bearings with arp rod bolts, and the same pistons. Ill take a look at the cam bearings but they are probably ok.
03-09-2006, 08:34 AM
#53
hows it going 92zcamaroperson. Looks like the motor worked out for you. Glad to hear that it was in better shape then the dealer said. Good luck with your build up and hope everything goes well. Thanks again
