Head Cam Swap Started Any Advice?
For when you get to pulling the heads, use this method
SHOP VAC IS KING!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/450774-head-swap-tips.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/451678-head-swap-no-coolant-mess.html
SHOP VAC IS KING!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/450774-head-swap-tips.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/451678-head-swap-no-coolant-mess.html
Wish I had known about the vacum thing.. that looks like a good idea. if I ever have to do it again, ithink I will drain the coolant, fill with water only, and flush the entire thing a couple times so only water is in the block too, as that's alot less of a mess to clean up as well.
Another good thing is when yo go to a MLS gasket, like the GM ones or whatever, you'll never hav eto go thru the block scraping deal again.. I wish they would have just used that metal gasket in teh first place, sure would make things easier.
Another good thing is when yo go to a MLS gasket, like the GM ones or whatever, you'll never hav eto go thru the block scraping deal again.. I wish they would have just used that metal gasket in teh first place, sure would make things easier.
Originally Posted by sidewayz28
you should grab an underdrive pulley while your at it 
looks sexy
looks sexy
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA
Hey M6HuggerSS, I see your headers laying over to the sides. Did you have to disconect your Y-pipe or just unbolt them from the head?
this is also a good time to remove your, A/C (save around 45lbs), remove egr,air,
and install an UD pulley, headers, new intake, high flow water pump/oil pump
and a catch can!....etc..
or any other parts you dont have yet....
have fun!
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all i did was just loosen them at the collector..... no need to remove them...
I also leave my headers in there, plenty or room, just bungee them up out of the way when doing the head bolts. but then again, on my daily driver I save time everywhere I can...
I have one bit of advice....CHANGE the stock timing chain! It cost me at least 10 bent valves. On the other hand, it gave me an excuse for new heads. Change the entire timing set....I didnt on my camaro and got 114,000 miles out of the stocker but it busted on my Z06 after 45,000. 
awesome advice everyone...now i can go ahead with my heads cam without worrying so dam much about messing up something. . lol main problem with me is its my daily driver and so i dont want it to take forever...how long do u think it'll take if u work on it an entire weekend doin things slow and right?
. lol main problem with me is its my daily driver and so i dont want it to take forever...how long do u think it'll take if u work on it an entire weekend doin things slow and right? 
End of working day 4. Them head bolts were a bitch. Be prepared to bleed 
. Went and bought a shop vac and used it to suck the coolant out of the heads before pulling. Worked great 
I don't think any coolant got into the bolt holes but nobody said anything about the oil from the top of the heads getting in there. Also been using the vac while cleaning heads to keep the junk from falling into the block. Scotch Brite pads work really well for cleaning the old head gasket material off the block. One more peace of advice, I was able to climb in between the engine and radiator support to get some good leverage to break the head bolts loose. To be continued....
. Went and bought a shop vac and used it to suck the coolant out of the heads before pulling. Worked great I don't think any coolant got into the bolt holes but nobody said anything about the oil from the top of the heads getting in there. Also been using the vac while cleaning heads to keep the junk from falling into the block. Scotch Brite pads work really well for cleaning the old head gasket material off the block. One more peace of advice, I was able to climb in between the engine and radiator support to get some good leverage to break the head bolts loose. To be continued.... They sight look all too familliar. But like OneMeanZ said, your engine looks CLEAN!!! Good work so far. Not sure if you already have, but make sure you suck out those bol holes with a straw and the shop vac just incase anything did get in. Even when i sucked out the coolant passages from the front of the bolck, a little spilled into the heads still. Oh, and to get some leverage, take a floor jack handle or big length of pipe and slip it over the ratchet for extra leverage. Makes for captain insane-o torque so you dont have to climb in again. Nothing like a 4 foot cheater bar on that pulley bolt.
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
They sight look all too familliar. But like OneMeanZ said, your engine looks CLEAN!!! Good work so far. Not sure if you already have, but make sure you suck out those bol holes with a straw and the shop vac just incase anything did get in. Even when i sucked out the coolant passages from the front of the bolck, a little spilled into the heads still. Oh, and to get some leverage, take a floor jack handle or big length of pipe and slip it over the ratchet for extra leverage. Makes for captain insane-o torque so you dont have to climb in again. Nothing like a 4 foot cheater bar on that pulley bolt.
12 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi
here is something that I did cause u dont want to crack the block. I got one of the longer "head" bolt, cut down length wise. after cleaning the holes I would screw the bolt in all the way and out by hand. if I found crude/fluid on bolt I would clean it again, this will require several attemps. just remember that if not cleaned it will crack the block, so take ur time on this and when certain that all bolts are clean then you will know that head is ready to go on and block will be safe. again screwing in bolt and out by hand w/ no crude on bolt tip is key here. good luck.
fuerzaws6
fuerzaws6