Head Cam Swap Started Any Advice?
The bolt holes are easily cleaned with an airhose, just keep a rag around the hose so spray doesn't go everyehere. The bolt in the bole trick works good, I checked mine like that before putting the studs in.
End of working day 6 (not much done on day 5). Cleaned out bolt holes. They were pretty nasty. Cut 2 of the original bolts with a dremel to use as a tap, break parts cleaner, small hose attached to compressor to get down to the bottom of the holes and taped everything off to keep the mess out. To be continued....
End of working day nine. Old cam out, LS2 timing chain installed, oil pump cleaned, ported and reinstalled. Word of advise on removing oil pump, you may think you can remove the oil pick up tube bolt without dropping the oil pan, WRONG!!! It kind of looks accessible (I even tried using an open end wrench that I bent thinking I could reach it,WRONG!!! I found in the end, just loosening all of the oil pan bolts just before they come all of the way out and then just dropping the pan about an inch, makes the job so much easier. To be continued...
To be continued... Up Date: Cam (F14) finally on the way (here Friday 4/7). Push rods out of stock (hopefully being sent by Thursday 4/6?). Ordered 30lb injectors (here Friday 4/7?). Sent PCM to Carolina Auto Masters for a base tune. Light at the end of the tunnel??? To Be Continued.....
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Verdad Gallardo Simple, there's a reason why my car's sitting in my driveway with a cylinder that's letting every bit of pressure into the crankcase... soemthign got on between the piston and the cyl wall and I didn't see it, now the bottom end has **** the bed. Not 100% of what happened, as it hasn't been torn down, but it's either that, or a cracked piston/roken piston or ringland.
Probably not what you wanted to hear at this point. BUt, I would HIGHLY reccommend turning the motor over by hand, and wiping each cylinder down with a rag and soem cleaner of some sort to make sure they are 110 % clean, I did it to mine, but apparently something still went wrong... what I don't knwo yet, but I will post up and let ya know when I eventually find out.
Good news is a new 402 iron blcok motor is goign in it's place, with either afr 225 heads, or possibly ET 240's..... depending on when I have the $ together for the shortblock, and when I get the order for the heads in.
Probably not what you wanted to hear at this point. BUt, I would HIGHLY reccommend turning the motor over by hand, and wiping each cylinder down with a rag and soem cleaner of some sort to make sure they are 110 % clean, I did it to mine, but apparently something still went wrong... what I don't knwo yet, but I will post up and let ya know when I eventually find out.
Good news is a new 402 iron blcok motor is goign in it's place, with either afr 225 heads, or possibly ET 240's..... depending on when I have the $ together for the shortblock, and when I get the order for the heads in.
I just don't want to see it happen to another do it yourselfer.
Like I said, I'm not 100% as to exactly what went wrong, all I know is somethign isn't right. It is a nice excuse to go bigger and better, which is always good, but I was hoping it was gonna stay together for this summer and the next, to give me a cahnce to get the rest of the car done, weight reduction, get the chassis workiing, all that before big power was made. Oh well, guess the car didn't think the h/c setup was enough power, so it ate it up LOL.
Like I said, I'm not 100% as to exactly what went wrong, all I know is somethign isn't right. It is a nice excuse to go bigger and better, which is always good, but I was hoping it was gonna stay together for this summer and the next, to give me a cahnce to get the rest of the car done, weight reduction, get the chassis workiing, all that before big power was made. Oh well, guess the car didn't think the h/c setup was enough power, so it ate it up LOL.
Well, after waiting 4 weeks for my cam, push rods and doing as much as I could in the mean time. This is where I'm at, at the end of working day 18. Drivers side head on, timing cover and underdrive pulley on. Hopefully I'll have a big day tomorrow (no work). To Be Continued....
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Oh, and to get some leverage, take a floor jack handle or big length of pipe and slip it over the ratchet for extra leverage. Makes for captain insane-o torque so you dont have to climb in again. Nothing like a 4 foot cheater bar on that pulley bolt.
Here's a link to the dyno results 
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/497243-dart-205-s-f14-dyno-results.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/497243-dart-205-s-f14-dyno-results.html 