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Welp i think i'm in deep crap, water in oil after install

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Old 03-15-2006, 12:43 PM
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Default Welp i think i'm in deep crap, water in oil after install

Yup there's water in my oil after all my installs i done, i started the car for about 5min's on the intial startup to let things get warmed up to about 180-190* i didn't rev. past about 1500rpm so hopefully nothing got hurt. But i let everything cool off and looked at my dipstick white as a ghost. What the hell did i do wrong??? I torqued everything down to spec. doesn't make any sense and i don't think it was just some coolant that was in the bottom of the pan cause i drained everything when i had to drop the pan some to get the oil pump installed, plus it's white not just alittle swirl or nothing should i try an change the oil and start it up again?


Old 03-15-2006, 01:43 PM
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I think i'm just going to tear it back down and start over again man what a kick in the nuts this is. After draining the oil there's no way it was just some left over coolant in the motor it's leaking somewhere. So i guess it's time for some ARP bolts shoulda done this the first time
Old 03-15-2006, 01:51 PM
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Prob. a Head gasket, Man theres nothing worse than finishing up a project and having a problem.
Old 03-15-2006, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SeeYaSucker
Prob. a Head gasket, Man theres nothing worse than finishing up a project and having a problem.
Yeah i know i was all sounded awesome then i shut it down and my turned to

Ahh well i guess i'll get better at changing heads on these things lol.

Just order'd new gaskets and ARP bolts from thunder racing so i guess we'll try this AGAIN...............

Last edited by 89tang; 03-15-2006 at 02:47 PM.
Old 03-16-2006, 04:05 PM
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Well i got it apart today and i couldn't find anything i done wrong. The gaskets were on right bolts were all torqued to spec. It did look like maybe on the passanger side gasket at the top in the rear, it was leaking possibly but that's it. But i remember that bolt felt kinda weird when i was torquing it down maybe that was the problem.

Is there a way to tell if the block is cracked or anything?
Old 03-16-2006, 05:56 PM
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Other than a visual, the only other way is to have a penetrant inspection done on the block (they do make small kits to DIY if you want to try it)
Old 03-16-2006, 06:21 PM
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I'm gonna get roasted for this, but, if all else fails & you're ready to shoot it, try Bar's leaks. It's a last resort kinda thing, but, works well & will not plug up your cooling system when applied correctly (without coolant).
Old 03-16-2006, 06:55 PM
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did you use fresh head gaskets?
Old 03-16-2006, 08:09 PM
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Did you use fresh head bolts?
Old 03-16-2006, 08:56 PM
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I did everything correctly and has a little foam under the oil cap for the first couple hundred miles. Now a few weeks later, im not losing any coolant and I dont have any foam. Should have given it a little bit before rippingher apart, but better safe than sorry. Can always pull a few plugs to inspect as well.
Old 03-17-2006, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by eamador11
did you use fresh head gaskets?
Did you use fresh head bolts?
Are you guys kidding?? Of course i had new stuff, i guess those are logical questions though considering how stupid some ppl. are on the interweb lol.


GuitsBoy- No this wouldn't have sealed up this was more then alittle foam under the oil cap when the oil is pure white i'm guessing there something kinda serious. And i'm not going to take the chance of changing the oil and driving it AT ALL if there's that much water in the crankcase. The plugs looked fine also this wasn't coolant leaking into the combustion chamber it was coolant leaking past the gasket into an oil hole.

Last edited by 89tang; 03-17-2006 at 03:01 AM.
Old 03-17-2006, 06:07 AM
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If you didn't dry the block bolt hole 100% upon swapping, and you ad some coolant left in one of them, you could have craked the block upon reinstallation.
Coolant cannot be compressed, that is why it is so important to get that step right.
is it possible you forgot to clean that one hole??
Old 03-17-2006, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
If you didn't dry the block bolt hole 100% upon swapping, and you ad some coolant left in one of them, you could have craked the block upon reinstallation.
Coolant cannot be compressed, that is why it is so important to get that step right.
is it possible you forgot to clean that one hole??
No i don't think so i'm positive i made 100% sure all those holes were dry. I knew it was important to do that. Maybe i didn't get one of them clean enough i suppose i coulda done that wrong and the crude caused it to give me a false first torque reading, but it didn't sound squishy or feel squishy when i was torquing it down or anything. Just that one bolt felt weird when i was going around on the 3rd pass like it wasn't as tight as the other ones were.
Old 03-17-2006, 07:01 PM
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Well i looked down all the bolt holes on the passanger side where i figure it was leaking and i couldn't find anything that looked odd although i doubt you could see anything even if it was bad.

Now this brings me to this, the head pin that is in the lower bolt hole the back one was loose like it wasn't tapped in all the way could this have caused my problem? It wasn't in all the way either, i tapped it in after i saw that and it seated right and won't move it's so tight. The gasket was leaking in the back on the passanger side, that's where i did find some water/coolant in the lifter valley back there like down in the corner where it could collect by the very back lifter. And i found water/coolant all over that very back lifter tray or whatever you call it and only on that one tray. HOPEFULLY that is what caused my problem and i didn't do something stupid like crack the block.
Old 03-17-2006, 07:28 PM
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Make sure the alignment pins are 6mm above the deck. This is the spec from GM.
Old 03-17-2006, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by joshp14
Make sure the alignment pins are 6mm above the deck. This is the spec from GM.
They are now, but that one wasn't.




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