i got a guy that wants to trade me cams. He has a 232/238 595 605 on a 112..He wants to trade for my 232/238 595 605 on a 114..What do u guys think?

 

On a mustang dyno?!?! Thats incredible and thats without longtubes. Very impressive!!

jacob, I would do the trade...the 112 will sound much better and you will have better mid range power.

 

trade it.

 

I was pretty dang impressed with 61 HP out of a Comp 228 and pulley only, with no LTs.
It was a strange exhaust set up. The I-pipe split fed a Y after the axel and one pipe went straight back (no muffler), the other went through the muffler and out the left rear. It sounded pretty good, and I didn't notice the strange set up until the owner pointed it out.

 

ya it seems like the 112 will be better for what i want with the car.

 

Wow that is a VERY odd exhaust setup. Did he say why he had it like that. I would think he is loosing power by not just running a straight I pipe or an X pipe. Has anyone else run this type of exhaust??

 

Im going to agree w/ what javier said considering we both basically said the same thing.

Also by the looks of this thread most responses were based on prior use or owning the TSP 231/237, people who might not trust in custom cams-prefer the off the shelf proven cams, and some of it appears to be rambling. Now i do see some real good information as to why the cams are good/bad. But some info here seems a little inflated.

Now let's see, The main comparison is what
The TSP 231/237- which specs are 231.X/237.X .598/.595 112LSA w/ +2/+4 ground into it

vs

232/238 .595/.605 114LSA+2

Now logically the .050 isnt much to compare specifics, but if my mind serves me correctly they both are Comp grinds- if not TSP then its a Cam Motion. Dur@ .006 would show the major differences there, but here is something to be thought- he's looking for something thatll drive nice, make good power, and sound good. so in reality the other specs only matter to some.

@.050 these cams are basically identical, .XX degrees difference in duration lift is roughly .005-.010" and the LSA is all of 2° From the looks of it they will idle relatively similar, only the 114 being slightly smoother and possibly easier to adjust from cars ive seen around here. Tons of guys are running their 112 and narrower LSA's @ 900 or so RPMs @ idle because they are having a hard time, and even some tuned ones by some sponsors- not to mention any names, have stalled while stopping @ a light. a 114LSA and 112LSA realistically w/ these to cams will make nearly no difference what-so-ever on powerband. all of a couple horses here and there if that. so i dont see how the feeling of "nothing down low" will occur when both cams are just about the same.

409RWHP w/ the custom cam w/ bolt ons (i guess dynojet, got this figure from jake) dont know if it was A4 or M6

"My previous setup made 367hp/310tq." Take a look @ Matt aka 4thGenCamaro's results with his Auto 2000 Z w/ boltons. Granted his is an auto i do not see auto vs. manual making over 40@ the rear wheels hp wise. even if it were Dynojet vs Mustang Dyno if Matts are Mustang Numbers his dynojet would show @ approximatley 403rwhp

TSP says 1700-6500 RPM powerband, and from what i've seen cams jsut as large as the custom one jake has Comp grind werent spinning over 6750 on a 114LSA as well.

Jake like i said i would stick w. the one you have now. And for all those who will respond to my post, I do understand that ramp rates, and specs @ .200 and .006 will show variations i am sure, different grinds (iof applicable in this situation) will show variation as well. But in reality there is really no significant difference between the 2 cams. Knowing Jake, he would probably be best off w/ the 114LSA he can lower the idle easier by the way a few cars out here ive seen are tuned, and have a nice effective midrange of power.

Now maybe this makes sense, or maybe this is rambling- i kinda lost track of myself in the middle somewhere so hopefully this makes sense to someone somewhere in here.

Custom cams are usually cams w/ thoguht put into them, of course everyone will tend to back up the proven cams but w/ specs as close as these two are to eachother- i really dont think jake should bother

 

excellent jr but you forgot to mention something about the "LOPE" he wants . he doesn't care about numbers just sound. i think the only reason you decided to change it out is cause richie told you he has 114 on his cam and you can barely hear it. but keep in mind he has a 224 cam and the car isn't even tuned properly.

 

new i left something out.

If you lower the idle on it it will lope and probably very aggressively. It is a comp grind they lope hard. It's easier to tune the idle of a Wider LSA then the narrow ones. Its not even significant As i said many guys out here jake are on 112 or narrower especially in the M6's. Thye all are idling @ liek 900 RPMs and sound like they are on a smaller cam (from my understanding many do that so they can street race- the chitown racing "kids" w/ their safe racing for example, think that nobody will catch on.) the idle on my t/a Stock cam is barely 600 and it sounds like its got a BABY cam in it just kind of quiet. most cars lope harder @ lower idles. so the LSA won't play enough in to valve overlap- both of these cams are within a few degrees of eachother.

Just keep your cam! that is all

 

You guys make it seem like the only thing i want is lope. NO, but it is a MAJOR factor in what i want.

 

Hey how about picking the best cam for the application and then letting the tuner take care of the sound/lope requirements. Idle is really the only time you need the sound right?
And why hasn't anyone thought of this approach before?
everyone seems obsessed with talking about big cam specs.

There are several tables for idle that you can adjust to give you the sound you want. Simply lowering the idle speed along with the spark in park and spark in drive will do most of it.

 

Like i said i want the lopey idle mainly cause i go to alot of local car shows and i want that big block sound when i pull in. I know this cam makes good power. Like i said the kid that had it had bolt ons, with an M6 and put down 409rwhp..so i know it makes power

 

i agree about picking the best cam for application, but jake is a little

 

I am..im VERY hard headed..

 

Go with the 231/237 and don't look back. Any bigger than that and you're just moving the powerband up which you don't want to do in your case.

Without gears you'll want a lower powerband anyway.

You'll do the right thing.

Or throw a 4l60e in it and get the biggest cam you can. I'll take care of the rest.

 

he doesn't care, he doesn't know. he just wants sound. thats the only reason he wanted to change it. he just thinks it's going to sound louder going with the other one. i told him it won't make a difference in sound. if you want to talk about properly setting it up, it's hard to figure it out if he doesn't even know what he is going to do with the car. when we first talked he asked me which cam sounds the badass. i responded it doesn't matter, what do you want to do with the car. he's like i just want a cam that sounds good. basically he's not interested in the HOWZPOWA

 

How about the torquer 2 cam on 110 lsa?

 

thats true, the lopeyness in the cam is what he is looking for. the cam he has now is fine, its just a matter of tuning it. javier tuned my car before and i have a baby cam and my car cackled. jake even saw the video. tuning makes a difference. but to each their own.
good luck you hard head lol

 

Shadaap you car breaking *****

 

You guys make it seem like all i care about is the sound, thats not true. Yes i want something thats gonna sound badass, but thats not it. I dont want something thats gonna break my high mileaged motor. So i want something thats gonna work good for me..and be the best for what i have, but i also want something i like.