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Should I replace rod bolts

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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 10:23 PM
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Default Should I replace rod bolts

I'm doing a cam heads and headers to my 98 T/A this spring and i'v heard these early Ls1's had weak rod bolts. I'm not going with a high reving aggressive cam. The car has 34000 miles on it now. Should I replace them or leave them. Thanks.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 10:40 PM
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Yeah its better safe then sorry.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 10:53 PM
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Stock rod bolts are good to 5-600 hp. Unless you're gonna hit that mark, you should be fine, specially considering your low mileage. I'd say rod bolts are more of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" sort of thing.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Stock rod bolts are good to 5-600 hp. Unless you're gonna hit that mark, you should be fine, specially considering your low mileage. I'd say rod bolts are more of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" sort of thing.
Now you tell us! jk
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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I think they are cheap insurance.....my .02
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 05:15 AM
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i don't really think that horsepower plays as much of a role in rod bolt fatigue as rpm does. if you plan on spinning over 6,500 with that 98 shortblock, i would recommend changing them. for a couple hundred bucks, why not? at least that way when the motor lets go it won't be able to put a window in your block, odds are it will just spin a bearing.

unless you have a boosted application that's putting >500 rwhp to the ground, you'll be hard pressed to lose a motor to a rod bolt breaking with the factory rev limiter.

regardless of hp, rpms will kill ya...hopefully you're swapping to an ungraded oil pump, too, as the pre 01 cars have had problems in the past.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Stock rod bolts are good to 5-600 hp. Unless you're gonna hit that mark, you should be fine, specially considering your low mileage. I'd say rod bolts are more of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" sort of thing.
I agree BUT, "if it's broke, you're fucked"

I plan on doing mine just for the added stability, but it's not wholly necessary. If you're worried about it, I would do it just to be safe; because if one breaks, you'll be even more sorry you didn't.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Stock rod bolts are good to 5-600 hp. Unless you're gonna hit that mark, you should be fine, specially considering your low mileage. I'd say rod bolts are more of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" sort of thing.


I dont think ill agree with you here. The rods themselves may handle that kind of HP, but the bolts were weak in the years before 01. And, as it was already mentioned, RPM is the killer, and if they let go, time for a new motor.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:41 AM
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01's and up have better bolts then?
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cenTX-LS1
01's and up have better bolts then?
Correct. They were upgraded for all lsx motors when the 6500 rpm ls6 motor was introduced. Kind of like how the 01+ ls1's got the ls6 intake too.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:58 AM
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I replaced mine @ 50000 miles. The rod bolts on the 98's are the weak link.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 08:03 AM
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 02:54 PM
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If i have 241 heads, is there a chance that i have the better bolts?
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by badaSS346
If i have 241 heads, is there a chance that i have the better bolts?
no, all 2000 year ls1s came with 853 or 241 heads, has no bearing on the rod bolts.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Ramairbird
I'm not going with a high reving aggressive cam.
Thus my response that it's not necessary to replace them since he's not planning to be reving high. The rod bolts are not THAT weak, but yes they are more prone to give out if you're spinning the hell out of the motor. The bottom line is, from the sound of this guy's post, I doubt he should be worrying about the rod bolts giving out.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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Katech rod bolts are cheap and are a remove and replace item. Most projects start off as bolt-ons and wind up more than that.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tillery
Katech rod bolts are cheap
I would definately not call katech bolts cheap... However as expensive as they are, theyre worth the money if you want the best. Plus theyre the only one to claim direct swap without resizing. I dont think youd have to resize with ARP either, but its nice to know they tell you its fine up front.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Look at the bolt itself, if there are two dots its upgraded if there is only one or no dots, its old. because the bolts are torque to yield (15 ft.lbs + 60 degrees) they should be replaced. torque to yield bolts get stretched. 98's have older style bolts than 99's even. At least in Canada, but I can't see it being any different. I'm rebuilding my short block and actually came across the same thing today. I've elected that I need to replace them. The last thing you want is to spin a rod bearing because the bolt couldn't hold up.
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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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Should I do this in my car too before putting in the f13? Do i have to take off the heads for that???
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by t1blackout
Should I do this in my car too before putting in the f13? Do i have to take off the heads for that???
No, you dont have to take the heads off, its worse! You have to either pull the motor, or drop the K member out of the way, remove the oil pan, and get to it from the bottom. Neither way is a quick and easy job.
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