I poste this in the dyno section as well, figured I'd get more responses in here.

I tried scanning the dyno's, but like the rest of the day, my scanner took a crap! Before I throw out the issues I have, I just want to say my car has only been on a dyno 4 times since I've owned it. Everytime was for tuning, so I'm not a dyno queen by far. The latest tune after some goodies has me really disapointed though. When I get the scans up you'll see that the tune is right on the money and the car runs great. If it wasnt for the lope you'd think my car was stock. So I'm baffled, I never had a baseline dyno, so that sucks as well. But once I throw up the issues the baseline really would not matter.

Its the same shop/dyno both times.
1998 Ta

On 3/09/2005
Mods were,lid/ Ls6 intake/ported tb/Hotcam/Asp pulley/longtubes/offroad Y/cutout/Hooker catback/0 smog equip/dbl chain/ported oil pump/Stock 323 rear/stock tranny.

I put down 360 hp/360 torque. 76* 28.11-hg std:107 Afr 12.65 across

Fast foward to today
All the same mods above but changed out cam to a comp shelf grind 228-230//571-573 on a 112. I'm also running the Crane acc lift 1.8's with that cam, so I'm up over .600 on the lift.I also installed a set of Patriot ported perimeter bolt heads with 2.05 I--1.60 E valves.I know not the best heads being perimeter bolt and all, but the numbers still dont make since. I also added a built 4l60e with a 3500 2.2 Fuddle street/strip stall, the $500 one.

I put down a whopping 380 hp/375 torque! 71* 27.73 in-hg std:108
afr 12.9

I have zero valve float and the valvetrain actually sounds quieter than stock. The timings right on and everything. Its not an install issue problem at all. It pulls pretty hard, but those numbers made me throw up in my mouth just a little!

Here's the kicker, I saved it for last. I did all the work in the second dyno about 3 weeks ago and still had the Hotcam in there and made like 375hp.Thats why I swapped out the HC last week thinking it was holding me back. The other cam actually has more power across the board and pulls harder up higher , but this sucks big fat donkey ***!

So the only thing I can think of is maybe I need to do a leak down/compression test. I cant see it being anything else. Maybe I need to bump the compression as well. Like I already said, the car runs great and just smokes alittle under wot. I dont know what else it could be.

Sorry for the long post, I just tried to get all the info out there. I know some are gonna say run it down the track, but with those numbers something isn't right. Maybe my car was low dynoing and the previous numbers were some how padded! I dont know! If there was a smiley with a guy putting a bullet in his head I'd be using it! Thanks for any direction!


__________________

 

your a stalled auto. your numbers are going to to skewed. look at some of the other guys that have big cams and big stalls. they dyno may only say there putting 380hp at the wheels, but then they go and run a low 10sec 1/4 mile. if you want big numbers get a manual or have the tuner lock your converter. otherwise having the stall will mess up your numbers. now, go run at the track and see what happens.

Ski

 

I guess I just dont see a stall robbing 20-30 rwhp. I dont think thats even possible. It would depend on how effecient the stall is. I went from the Hotcam to that Comp cam and gained like 2 hp. I should be up around 400 if not more. Something just dont seem right. I know the tuning was done on different days. I'm just disappointed and frustrated. I'm going to do a leak down to rule that out this weekend. Its a 98 with 65,000 miles on it. It just dont seem like alot of miles for bad compression, but you never know. Like I said, the car fires right up everytime and runs great.

 

Sorry dude, I gotta say it...Get yer donkey kart down the track before you come on here and cry about your "Assmobile." You don't have before dyno numbers that seem to be so important to you but, you don't like the numbers you have now. Planning, I think your'e overlooking the limiting factor in your setup- the heads. If you wanted to have that 20-30hp more then I think you have your answer at hand if your tuning is as solid as you say it is. The cam you have now vs. the hotcam you had- not a real big difference with the choice of heads you went with. Get ahold of yourself, at least you don't have an 5k import that you just spent 20k on just to make 300hp.

 

if you didn't lock the converter, it could EASILY be worth 40rwhp and probably more. a 3500 stall converter is actually quite a bit of slip.

Get it down the track. If you run 110mph then start worrying.

 

what he said ^^^

 

Yeh, the convertor wasnt locked. I'm not that big into numbers really. Thats why its never been on the dyno except for tuniing. I just couldn't see where the problem was. After a good sleep and your guys posts its starting to make more since to me now. I'm still going to do a leak/compression test. Then I might start shopping for another combo.

 

Eh, run it first then shop. It might surprise you.

 

Don't ya just hate it when someone asks your opinion and then doesn't listen to your advice?! Dude, majority rules! You admitted you're lost and guess what, these guys aren't! Run it through the quarter and post your results. It'll be so much more fun than a leakdown test that will likely show expected minimal compression loss for your miles and will give everyone a good idea of how your car is truly doing.

 

How about putting some stock rockers back on. I have heard nothing but bad things about 1.8 and above rockers with an after market cam. The lobes on the cam are too rough and the 1.8 just makes the problem worse.
Lock the converter and get some 1.7 rockers and you will probably see another 40RWHP

 

What is so bad about 380 to the wheels on a stalled unlocked auto?

And also...his cam is an xe grind...which will work fine with those rockers. And the crane's work a little bit better than most of the 1.8's out their...some people are even using them on xe-r's with good results.

 

Here's the Dyno sheets. http://community.webshots.com/album/549088141cismum Dyno 1 is the hotcam and Dyno 2 is the Comp cam/heads/

 

Someone on Corvetteforum has a similar experience. Cam and Dart heads, only making 390 at the wheels after the install. He is also running a converter and 3.73 gears. I don't think the dyno numbers are reflecting the car's potential. How does it run, you must feel a difference? I agree with the others, the converter unlocked is producing lower numbers on the dyno.

 

Its common for a H/C/stall car to put down 380ish, all you read on here is the freakish cars puttin down 410ish or better on a A4 car. I know of a 388rwhp A4 car that ran 7.20s in the 1/8th and it was full weight except Weld wheels.