torque specs for ARP head studs?
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 13
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From: Rogersville, TN
ARP Studs Sorry, I missed that you have an Iron Block, check with ARP.
First, make sure there's no coolant in the block bolt holes or when you install the studs or bolts, you'll hydraulic the hole bottom out and ruin the block.
Use anti seize on the studs and nuts.
The studs aren't torqued just hand tightned with an allen wrench.
The 10 ea. 15mm stud nuts are torqued in 4 stages, 22, 30, 50 and 70 ft. lbs.
The 5 small nuts are 22 ft. lbs.
These are from my notes, there is torque specs on the installation sheet that ARP sends with the kit. Check that all the nuts screw onto the studs before you start, I had one bad nut. If you get stuck, you can use a lug nut on the stud next to the header flange, until you get the replacement nut from ARP.
First, make sure there's no coolant in the block bolt holes or when you install the studs or bolts, you'll hydraulic the hole bottom out and ruin the block.
Use anti seize on the studs and nuts.
The studs aren't torqued just hand tightned with an allen wrench.
The 10 ea. 15mm stud nuts are torqued in 4 stages, 22, 30, 50 and 70 ft. lbs.
The 5 small nuts are 22 ft. lbs.
These are from my notes, there is torque specs on the installation sheet that ARP sends with the kit. Check that all the nuts screw onto the studs before you start, I had one bad nut. If you get stuck, you can use a lug nut on the stud next to the header flange, until you get the replacement nut from ARP.
Last edited by curtbriggs; Apr 14, 2006 at 04:56 AM.
I spoke to ARP on this several times. For aluminum, 70 lb-ft on the big ones, 23 lb-ft on the small ones. I just don't know about the iron block so best to speak directly with ARP. These numbers are using their assembly lube.
Same torque values for either, just make sure you lube up each stud with moly, bottom the stud into the block by hand with the correct size alan wrench, then back it out 1/2 turn. Do not torque stud into block!
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Originally Posted by smask04C5
Same torque values for either, just make sure you lube up each stud with moly, bottom the stud into the block by hand with the correct size alan wrench, then back it out 1/2 turn. Do not torque stud into block!
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We don't need to use the thread sealer on LS1/LS6 blocks, correct ?
I'm about to order some moly lube from ARP and am wondering if I need the thread sealer too. Our studs don't go through any water jackets, do they ?
Rob (Bad30th)
I'm about to order some moly lube from ARP and am wondering if I need the thread sealer too. Our studs don't go through any water jackets, do they ?
Rob (Bad30th)
Bringing this one back.... thanks for posting the instructions Black Z/28. I lost my directions for my 12pt studs a while ago but I thought I remembered something about torquing them in increments such as 20, 30, 50, 70? Anyone else recall this?
Yes, as long as the nut is moving when you hit the torque value. I don't like the Blackcamaro method, spoke to ARP about it and they stated the multi-stretch was for rod studs.
