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bunch'a cam install questions!

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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 01:18 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
The idea of changing two springs at once is a great one for people who have a lot of experience turning wrenches, but for the ones doing their first cam or head swap on an LS1 like this guy it probably isn't for them. Those types need to stick to a spring tool that compresses the spring directly rather than relying on the head and rocker bolt for leverage. Once they get their hands greasy a few time they might want to step up to the assembly line method of spring changing. I just hate to read the horror stories from inexperienced guys like "Broke rocker bolt off in head, now what"?
Your so wrong about the crane tool its not even funny. Have you ever used one? There is no way to screw anything up with it even if your a complete idiot. It leverages nothing. It screws into place and then uses its own hardened rod threaded into itself for direct pressure of both springs. It is perfect in everyway and in no way can possibly damage the head. The same can not be said for any of the other tools. The crane tool makes the job a breeze and is the tool someone who doesn’t know what they are doing should use. All you need is a pen magnet to snag the keepers and your done in half the time of anyone else using any other tool.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 01:20 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SUX2BU
I've done about 100 cam installs and i use the TDC methed and nothing for the lifters. i guess i must be stupid and lazy.
Some people swear by the pull out method of birth control as well. Why take a chance?
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 12:18 PM
  #23  
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I havn't used the Crane tool myself and if I worked on a lot of LSX engines other than my own I'm sure I'd spend the money to have the advantage of changing both springs at the same time. That's a real time saver! My point being that some of these guys could screw up a wet dream and I'd rather seem them do it the hard way rather than break a rocker bolt or damage their crank threads and have to ask after the fact how to put Humpty Dumpty back together again. I'm quite sure you can use this tool properly, but I had in mind the guy that removed his rocker covers to paint them and couldn't find his pushrods. He's NOT on your level when it comes to turning wrenches. Anyone that has enough confidence to sucessfully do 100 cam swaps WITHOUT a tool to hold the lifters up doesn't need my advice. That's for damn sure! He's also right when he says he uses the TDC method for changing springs because if you think about it how far can the valves actually fall? Not much.

Last edited by eallanboggs; Apr 17, 2006 at 12:27 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 12:23 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Some people swear by the pull out method of birth control as well. Why take a chance?
If you know what your doing your not taking a chance. Ijust took offence to the stupid and lazy comment.
I understand if you said first timers should do it the long way just to be safe. But sayin people are stupid and lazy cause they know what they are doing is .
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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um, how big is your cam, because I see your reussing the ls1 springs?
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #26  
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I don't understand what you guys are saying about the TDC method for doing valvesprings.

I did my valvesprings at TDC. With the spring off the valve would drop a half inch before hitting the piston. They don't have anywhere else to go...someone explain to me please why its 'careless' to do it that way.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by daryl2cb@yahoo.com
um, how big is your cam, because I see your reussing the ls1 springs?
my apologies I have another set of springs that came with the whole package. I have a TR 230/224 111lsa cam (going FI later, was told this this reverse split cam was decent) with the 7.4" pushrods and the beehive (I believe they are ) valve springs .

Also, everyone seems to say the crane valve spring compressor tool is great. I called thunder racing and they wouldn't have a problem with me exchanging the more tool for the crane compressor.

Only thing the lady said over the phone was that it would not reach all of the back springs so easily, and that their tech people have difficulties using this, can anyone vouch for this? Should I buy the other tool to have both, or return the more tool and replace it with the crane tool?

And thanks for all the help guys, all the info has been useful.

John B

Last edited by 00SLPSS; Apr 17, 2006 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 07:45 PM
  #28  
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Theres nothing wrong with the TDC method as long as you know which pistons are at TDC. Personally id get a leakdown kit and pressurize the cylinder at about 80-90 psi. This keeps the valve stem at it highest point. Then when you change springs you dont have to compress the spring as much. The TDC metod the stem can fall as much as .5 inch. Not fun when trying to put the locks on.

Crane tool is way better than a typical valve spring compressor because with a typical VSC you run the risk of breaking a bolt off or messing up the threads.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 04:06 PM
  #29  
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TTT, just need to know from the people who used the crane valve spring compressor tool if it fit the back springs fine. Want to exchange my more tool for this and would like to know if I should swap or just buy both.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 05:14 PM
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they are full of crap...you can reach every single spring easily with the crane tool. all you have to have room for is a ratchet to tighten down the bolt on the tool that compresses the springs.

All you will need is the crane tool. it is the best spring compressor you can buy in my opinion. you will need nothing else...nothing else will be easier or faster.

I dont suggest using an impact wrench to compress the springs though...if you have the tool lined up wrong and hit that impact wrench...you could push a valve down into a piston and bend it. The advertisement on thunders site says you can use an impact wrench...im sure you can, but its not worth it. it is plenty fast enough just using the ratchet.

Last edited by UltraZLS1; Apr 18, 2006 at 05:20 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 05:33 PM
  #31  
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I just finished changin my valvesprings with the Crane tool 2 days ago. i have never done it before, and it was easy as all hell. if you pay attetion, u will have no problems with it. I had plenty of room to change the springs with it. And i used the TDC method with no problems at all. i checked before removing the valvesprings by sticking a pushrod in the spark plug hole. The valves dropped at most 1 or 2 mm. If you do want to use the spark plug air fitting, i found one at Pep Boys, however i didn't use it.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Phoenix 5.7
I just finished changin my valvesprings with the Crane tool 2 days ago. i have never done it before, and it was easy as all hell. if you pay attetion, u will have no problems with it. I had plenty of room to change the springs with it. And i used the TDC method with no problems at all. i checked before removing the valvesprings by sticking a pushrod in the spark plug hole. The valves dropped at most 1 or 2 mm. If you do want to use the spark plug air fitting, i found one at Pep Boys, however i didn't use it.
The Crane tool is very nice. The More tool is alot easier with the heads off the car lol! I've used both and you can imagine what my choice is. Yes, the TDC method is acceptable and I can't believe that we got off on the tanjent of valve spring installation methods from the original post, but it is fun anyway. To reinerate the TDC method is easy yes, just follow the firing order Russian roulette my *** lol!

Last edited by zo6vetteman2003; Apr 18, 2006 at 06:24 PM. Reason: technical correction
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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No, its every 90 degrees, cause cylinders are paired, and 2 are at TDC at a time, so 360/4=90.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Phoenix 5.7
No, its every 90 degrees, cause cylinders are paired, and 2 are at TDC at a time, so 360/4=90.
Thanks for the correction on the two cylinders up.

Last edited by zo6vetteman2003; Apr 18, 2006 at 06:26 PM.
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