Okay I have a list of stuff for a basic cam install, did some searching but wanted to double check

-TR camshaft / 7.4" pushrods / retainers / ls1 valvesprings / re-using stock rockers
-misc gaskets from TR for install.
-ls2 timing chain
-ported ls6 oil pump

For the job I've ordered some parts like the jrp lifter tool, moore(sp?) valve spring compressor tool. I'd like to know where I can get the fitting where the spark plugs go for compression so the valves don't fall down, should I order the kit from SLP that has the fittings in it? http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/tosevawfi.html I feel kinda bad buying that because I already bought what was said to be a very good valve spring compressor.

Also mentally I have the install down pretty good except with the whole crank area . I've never done a cam swap and have the online instructions, and like to have a good idea on how to do everything before I tear into it. I am confused as how hard this will be to pull off the pulley (I heard that the ASP smaller pulley sometimes is hard to get off) and as well I am uncertain where the longer crank bolt comes into play, and where to purchase this at.

So basically I still think I need to buy the crank bolt, and air-hold fitting for the valves, anything else you guys recommend? Should I spend the money for a pulley puller or just see if I can borrow one off a friend?

 

I always just moved the # cylinder that I was working on to or near TDC. Then I know a valve can't fall. It's a free fool proof method.

Mike

 

Go to a local parts house and get a compression tester/ leak down tester kit. Should be fairly cheap and use it to hook up compressed air to the cylinder to hold up the valves.

It takes a good three jaw puller to get the crank pulley off. Not difficult with the right one. Got mine a Sears. You will need a longer crank bolt with a couple good washers to get the pulley back on. Do a search on PT.net for where to get it. Some heat the crank pulley in the oven or with a torch and say it will slide right on. I have never tried it.

 

You can rent/borrow a pulley puller from auto zone.
I pull ASP pulleys off with a big 2 jaw puller.
That spring compressor in the link SUX ***!
You don't need the air compressor fitting. I just do the springs when the piston is at TDC so the valves don't go down. even if you do drop one just turn the crank and it will come back up.
You can go by the firing order to know which two pistons are up at the same trime.
i have it writted down at home.
With #1 at TBD (dot to dot) you do 1 and 6
turn the crank clockwise 90 degrees (quarter turn) and do 7 and 4
" " " " " " " " do 5 and 8
" " " " " " " " " do 3 and 2.
I've done litterally about 100 cam swaps so if you have ANY questions feel free.

 

if you have an ASP pulley you don't need the longer crank bolt. the longer bolt is for putting the stock pulley back on. I don't use that i just tap it on about a 1/4" and then use the stock bolt.
before you start the springs tap the retainers with a hammer to break the "lock" on them. make sure you hit just the retainer and not the valve cause that will accomplish nothing.

 

I did mine the same method. Works just fine. I would also like to note that to mark your balancer clearly for TDC with a yellow paint marker or something that shows up easily. You never know when you'll need #1 TDC with the valvecovers on. Once you are at TDC #1, you will be at TDC for the next cylinders up in the firing order for every 90 degrees of crank rotation.

 

I also just thought, you will need to buy a new balancer bolt. The stock bolts are torque to yeild due to bolt stretch. Failure to do this will cause the bolt to not be fully seated and will have nightmares. You need an additional 240 degrees of torque angle in addition to the balancer bolt torque spec. You should also grab a new timing cover gasket. Some people don't, but it could be a hard lesson. The next cam I install on my Vette, I'm going with a 2 peice timing cover so I can leave the balancer bolt in. LOL! On the Corvettes, you need to remove the steering rack and slide it out through the front wheelwell to get the balancer off. The things that could make my life easier hehe.

 

This is not a fool proof method. This is just hoping they dont fall. The real way to use this method is to feed nylon rope into the bore at TDC to keep them from falling. The piston at TDC doesn't prevent anything, it just limits how far it can go. Its called russian roulette and I dont recommend it. Ya you can find backyard mechanics that use vise grips instead of wrenches as well but would you do it?

As far as pulley puller, I rented mine for $8 for the day from my local rental shop.

 

If you're new at this like you say I would use a great deal of CAUTION when using one of those spring tools that leverage the rocker bolts to compress the springs. If you've been reading horror stories for as many years on this site as I have you no longer feel sorry for the guys you break off the rocker bolts while doing a spring swap or reinstalling their OEM rockers. Be careful or do the right thing and get a spring tool that compresses the spring directly without involving the aluminum threads of your head. Short of the GM factory puller/pusher tool which you probably can't get the best 3 leg puller is a Posi-Lock sold at Sears. 8" 3 leg Posi-Lock. It ain't cheap, but it turns a two man job into a one man job because the puller legs don't flop all over the place while you're trying to get 3 legs into position AND also get the puller rod in the right place too. This isn't easy with only two hands. Once you use one of these things you won't want to use anything else. Once you get the OEM bolt out (I use a plumbers chain wrench to hold the crank stationary while removing the bolt) you should use a BIG allen head cap screw with a few large flat washer to buck your puller rod up against while removing the pulley. Put the allen screw in where you removed the OEM bolt. The flat washer should be just slightly smaller than the O.D. of the crank. This makes the puller rod self-centering and you don't damage the crank bolt threads. These suggestions will help you avoid some of the other numerous horror stories you've no doubt read about here in the past. Pep Boys sells the air adapter. Put the cylinder you're working on at TDC on the compression stroke and don't use more that 40 or 50 lb of air tops or the crank will go spinning. I still don't understand the suggestion of putting nylon rope into a bore to hold the valves in place. I try to limit the things I put in my spark plug holes to spark plugs and the occasional wooden chop stick that I stole from a Chinses resturant so I can find TDC. If you look closely at the bore of the ASP pulley you'll find that it has a STEP that allows you to slide the pulley onto the crank the first 1/4" without using any tools. The OEM bolt is 106mmX16mmX2mm. The longer bolt I bought for less than $5 is 120mmX16mmX2mm. Very cheap insurance considering the many crank bolt horror stories about broken crank bolts and damaged crank threads. Take your time. Use the right tools. Keeep your parts organized by labeling everthing and putting them in zip lock bags. If you do things like this the engine will fire the first time you turn the key and you won't see any liquids dripping on the garage floor either.

 

Dude, go to a chevy dealer (they are the only place you'll find it) and buy a couple of extra valve keys. They are what keep the valves and the retainer locked together. You are bound to drop one or have one go flying somewhere and you won't be able to find one over the weekend. (It's never happened to me, really. A friend told me about it. ) Also, you can order the longer bolt from any online hardware store. I got one from a place in atlanta for about $5.00. If you need to know the size let me know. I've still got it laying around somewhere. Good luck.

 

Get the Crane Cams valve spring tool, it compresses 2 springs at a time and makes the swap super easy.

Use the TDC method when changing the springs, do it before you take the timing chain off so you can line up the dots for the appropriate cylinders, it's fast, easy, and fool proof.

 

I second the crane cams tool. I have it and it was awesome. It made short easy work of changing the springs.

I use the compressed air in the cyliner method. It worked for me

Take your time bag and tag your bolts and have a friend there to help you move the ac condensor when you r and r the cam..

 

If no one is around a bungee cord will work for holding the ac out of the way.The locks are only like $.30 each so its a good idea as stated above to have a few extras. One more idiot says TDC without protection is fool proof and I might have to freak out. Its not that it cant be done but: its like using the pullout method for birth control ya it works but are you prepared for the consequences. I'm sure these same people use nothing for the lifters as well. IF you want to do the job right , use protection. TDC w/nylon rope or use air pressure. Its makes no sense to use the TDC mehtod without using the rope. Your going thru all the work to rotate the crank why not feed the rope? Why I'll tell you why because someone just wants to be stupid and lazy thats why
Really its not a hard job but can be made a nightmare by stupid people who take shortcuts.

 

Crane cams tool as well.

Worth every penny.

Trust me...get a good valve spring tool. You will see why you need one when you start.

I think the crane tool is the best one you can use...because it does 2 at a time....and a caveman could use one successfully.

 

Yep crane tool worth every penny!! You can buy the cheap version but it is not the same at all and uses the wrong leverage against the head rocker bolt holes. Also for the price of the cheap version its not so cheap. Does it do the job, yes it does in 3 times the amount of time and with the possibility of damaging your heads.

 

The idea of changing two springs at once is a great one for people who have a lot of experience turning wrenches, but for the ones doing their first cam or head swap on an LS1 like this guy it probably isn't for them. Those types need to stick to a spring tool that compresses the spring directly rather than relying on the head and rocker bolt for leverage. Once they get their hands greasy a few time they might want to step up to the assembly line method of spring changing. I just hate to read the horror stories from inexperienced guys like "Broke rocker bolt off in head, now what"?

 

Man I dont know how you could screw up using the crane tool.

Tighten down both bolts that hold down the tool making sure it is lined up properly, and then put the top part over the springs, make sure it is lined up, and then put the bolt on top and tighten.

Have you used one before? They are very very easy to use...that is one of the reason I recommended it.

I dont see how you could break anything off as long as you made sure it was bolted down properly, which is pretty darn simple...and if someone isnt smart enough to do that...they definately shouldnt be doing a cam swap.

 

Used the crane cam tool my first time and it was a breeze just keep a rubber mallet and screwdriver handy to "break" loose the locks

We used the compressed air AND turned the crank for double protection. When you are working with something as key and serious as the valve train it makes sense to take every precaution *shrug*

 

I've done about 100 cam installs and i use the TDC methed and nothing for the lifters. i guess i must be stupid and lazy.

 

I'd recomend the crane tool aswell. If you're doing double springs, you'll be throwing that pos more too in the garbage before you're done.