Had Royal Purple in it and when I had it changed it was so thin it was about like mineral oil. I changed it and went with Shell's Synthitic no complaints so far and the oil is thicker.

 

Where do you get the GC from? How much per qt?

 

I've been running Red Line 10-30w with great success. I recently switched to the German Castrol 0w-30 and noticed a dramatic drop in oil pressure when fully warmed up. The Red Line held oil pressure nicely when fully warm, but the GC seems to be VERY thin at higher temps in my motor.

 

GC all the way......oil analyasis has shown that M1 0-w40 synth & GC 0-w30 r the 2 best oil's for the ls1.....but to each man his own

 

yep, seems like #1 is GC, #2 is a toss up between redline, amsoil, rp racing 41, and M1 0w40 (or 5w40 truck and suv) but not 5w30

 

So where does one get the GC from?

 

Because I got 114,000 miles(before I sold it) out of my 99 Z28...Running a cam, headers, TNT 150 shot etc etc etc....without a SINGLE issue. I also had a 97 LT1 with 126,000 miles before I traded it, modded as well. Again not a SINGLE issue... Thats why.... Real world testing always works better than internet oil analysis and hypothesis.

 

Autozone. (or if you're in Canada, it's at Walmart and Canadian Tire)

 

126k really isn't a lot of miles though. Any engine running just about any oil can get that far.

 

Patman

Any issues with oil pressure for you like Patrick G noticed above?

 

I personally like the mobil 1 5w 30 8 quarts with the oil cooler built into the radiatior.

 

Well, found GC 0w30 at autozone today, went ahead and made the plunge. This autozone claims they get 2 cases a month so I should be good. Bought the K&N HP1007 filter too. I have a new forged motor with 3K on the clock with GTX 10w40 so figured it was time to switch to synthetic.

 

I use German Castrol too.

 

And much farther than that actually. I actually tore into a 90 Chevy truck 350 V-8 that had over 18X,000 miles....hes the kicker, the guy had NEVER CHANGED THE OIL, only added when it got low. He used Texaco 10W-30 petro oil. The engine finally sludged up and plugged the oil screen and filter then proceeded to launch a rod. BUT the fact is he got over 180,000 WITHOUT changing the oil. The facts are that most engine wear occur upon startup so the issue with an oil thinning really has little to no affect on longevity from what I have seen. Keeping the oil clean and free of debris does. No telling how long that engine would have survived if he actually had kept the oil clean.....

Many experts think even a synthetic oil is simply overkill....so run a good easily found synthetic like M1 and rest easy. No need to kill yourself hunting for some holy grail of oil, its a waste of time.

Over and out.

 

I payed 5.50 a qt at auto zone today, for 15 of them.

 

I just changed the oil today and I put in GC 0w 30. I decided this because knowbody has anything bad to say about it.

 

anyone got feedback from redline?

 

I rarely drive my C5 or the Mustang but I drove the C5 and in stop and go traffic, my DIC was reading 230*!! I was running 15-50w Mobil 1 but my next oil change on both cars I'll be going back to RP51.

Shahram

 

My oil temperature was at 230F last night on the way home from work too. It was 93F outside and I was driving for almost an hour in stop and go traffic with my AC on. I'm running GC 0w30 and even at 230F, my oil pressure was still very good, it was at 27psi at idle. Normally it would be about 29psi at idle when the oil temp is at 200F. So this oil can definitely handle extreme heat without causing a problem.

 

I did a little cruising yesterday in 94* heat. Eventually my oil temp was 216* & my oil pressure at idle with AMSOIL 5w40 was 34psi at idle, & 44 at cruise.