Patman

Keep in mind that my car is automatic, and has a lower idle speed than a 6 speed car, so my idle oil pressure is going to be lower.

At 2000rpm mine is at 44psi as well.

fauslpss

iTrader: (6)

I've run Mobil 1 5-30 since I bought my car and have just changed to RP 5-30 b/c of personal issues but both oils in my instince are good oils. At my 210 operating temp both oils have givin me over 40lbs psi at idle and just over 60lbs at 1800rpms, at the moment my car has 86k miles on the motor.

bifster

ok guys I am used to the older style chevy engines that you could almost throw any thickness oil in them and they would run day or night rain or shine blah blah blah but why is it everyone is running such thin oil in these engine? i figured to get rid of the ticking you could run a thicker oil. why wouldnt you run soimething like 20-50? to me thats a good oil but again i used that daily in my old style iron block SB. can anyone explain to me the reasoning behind using 0-40 or something that thin?? thanks

SSCamaro99_3

iTrader: (1)

It is only a 0W oil when cold, therefore it flows better on startup reducing wear. Once warm it performs like a 40W oil. Synthetics allow for wide ranges due to their chemical nature (best of both worlds). Most modern engines have tighter tolerances as well, and heavier oils are not really needed.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

Because a 20W-50 oil does not flow as well upon startup where virtually all engine wear occurs. A 20W-50 oil is too thick for any street engine IMO....

bifster

well i ran mobile 1 since i bought the engine and i dicided to try the RP well needless to say the ticking got worse so I imediately changed the oil the next day about 60-80 KM. I found some of the renownd GC 0-30 and am running that now. oil pressure has droped about 5-10 psi from when I had the mobile one in it so i figure ill wait out a little while and recoup some funds as the nice 75$ flush with RP doesnt help the pocket book. I hear some ticking still tho in the lifters even with the 0-30 GC and figured maybe with some luck the next oil changew should fix it but I'm just hoping I didnt do damage to the block (lifter bores) with the RP.

Another thing I was wondering... Everyone seems to find an oil that works well for them and removes the ticking but isnt there something like a new set of lifters that would fix the problem?? I'm going to be replacing my heads this summer so I'll be doing valve springs and rods and such, just wondering if replacing the lifters with aftermarket lifters will eliminate he problem all together and just keep running 5-30 or 5-40 or something along those lines instead of thick oils.
thanks guys

Camaro99SS

iTrader: (4)

I've run M1 0W40 and both green and gold versions of GC, and I've noticed no oil pressure changes. Right now I have about 5k miles on the GC and K@N filter, and oil pressure at hot idle is 40-45psi @800rpm, 60psi 2000+rpm. My car also has 99k miles.

Jason

ino

iTrader: (1)

ran both m1 and rp. m1 seemed to consume more oil quiker

DarkblueTA

When we tore my engine down to put forged internals in, the guys doing it specialize in LTx/LSx engines. I asked them how everything looked in the block/heads/etc and they said what ever I am doing, keep doing it.

Mobil 1 10w30. Good enough for me.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

In my opinion some of these are not the preferred viscosity for a given oil brand. Mobil 1 use 5w40 or 0w40. German Castrol use 0w30, I am not familar with Royal Purple so I can't comment on it.

SIC LSX

iTrader: (10)

I use M1 0w-40 and i was thinking about changing it to something different like R.P any thoughts on this? Or should i stick to M! 0w-40 on a 91k mile LS1?

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

I use either 0-40 M1 or 5-40 M1 .. no oil consumption and have 114,000 miles on it.

Mike02Z

iTrader: (13)

Lots of noise and oil consumption with M1 5W-30. Very little noise and NO oil consumption with GC 0W-30. I would NEVER put M1 5W-30 in my LS1 again. But as someone said to each his own.

00454sscamaro

i have usuallly used mobil one in my ls1 but after trying all different types of mobil one (4 total)all of 5w 30 or 10w 30 to combat ticking and low oil pressure after some milage .. i tried royal purple 10w 30 and i liked the improvement in oil pressure , lack of noise , no burning oil. gf said it ran smoother and didnt know i changed anything,although i also ported my tb at the same time so it could of made it smoother, i guess... no thinning out fast like the m1 with the rp. i could care less about the claimed 8 or 9hp increase with rp although if it really does add hp then its even better then i hoped for . also i changed out the rear oil to rp and bought rp for my transmission also. i havent had the desired to take apart my interior to change the transmision oil yet.. i put about 2k miles on the rp any of the mobil ones would be considerable thinner by now acourding to my oil pressure at first start up the older the oil got the lower it started with even being cold ... with the rp it idles at around 40psi and goes upto 60 for about 2k rpms in nj summer heat/humididty.. and stays at about the same psi as the engine warms up too.. where as the m1 would get considerably lower as it got hot.. m1 didnt make anything break on my engine so i cant say its a bad oil. it is a noisey oil, with low oil pressure after use . imo im glad i switched to rp, but next oil change will probly be castrol 10w 30 to see if its as good as the rp + its cheaper. i have tried castol syntec before i liked it better then the m1. i have also used amsiol but only in my 450 dirtbike , i may try amsiol in my car also, i just didnt like the price after ordering it the only place i could find it, direct from amsiol online (the shipping is where it got picey for oil)...

HottLS1Z

iTrader: (5)

RP 10-30 Hear. My 98 has 130K on it sprayed and beaten like a dog for 95K of those miles I ran M1 5-30 in the winter and 10-30 in summer then switched to RP same weights 5 in winter 10 in summer car still goes strong today no ticking or ne thing.

Z2K_MrJ

Been Using RP in all 3 cars.. & NO Not the Race type Oli like some NOOBS do.before M1 was EVEN fully SYNTHETIC..

Patman

First of all, Mobil 1 has ALWAYS been fully synthetic. Never at any point in the 30+ years that this oil has existed has it ever used anything less than a group 4 and/or group 5 base oil.

Second of all, RP's race oils are far superior to their street oils, so I wouldn't call people that use the race oils newbies, they are smart to choose the race oils! The street oils thin out far too easily and show higher engine wear in oil analysis than the race oils. And you can easily run the race oils to 6000 miles or more, they've got enough reserve TBN to handle it without a problem. So it's not a non detergent oil like some "race oils" that aren't meant for street use at all.

HottLS1Z

iTrader: (5)

Well one of the spees shops I get my RP from one of there employees came from RP company and said DO NOT tun the race oil on a street car somthing bout it will mess up O2 secsors and some other crap.....I just use the 10-30

ChiefDave

ran M1 and RP in this car. Ran synthetic for years in my other F bodies. I can not tell much of a delta between the two... but I do love the RP syncro mesh in the M12
Dave

rjkZ28

ok guys i have a 02 Z28 with a little over 40K. ive owned the car since 28k and have always used M1 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in the summer, i was thinkin about switchin over the RP, do you think its worth it? i rarley burn more than a eighth sometimes a quarter if im really beating on it. i have real good oil pressure as well about 60lbs (i had my idle turned up a bit too). a freind of mine who has a excursion with the v10 in it, and he puts RP in it and its so quite i couldnt tell it was running while i was sittin in the truck. so thats why im curious to give RP a shot.