Head problem - time to tear down
you dont need to port the heads,
also old school porters on GEN III heads= bad combo
if you do plan on building the LS1 get a person who actually knows LS1s, they arent the same as SBCs
and you dont really need to put the heads with that cam. many ppl running huge cams like the MS3 and Trex with stock heads!!!
you have 241 castings. if you would do anything get a set of 243s or do 706 with a 2.0 intake valve. this would up your SCR. if you plan on boost go 317 castings which i have a set for sale
also old school porters on GEN III heads= bad combo
if you do plan on building the LS1 get a person who actually knows LS1s, they arent the same as SBCs
and you dont really need to put the heads with that cam. many ppl running huge cams like the MS3 and Trex with stock heads!!!
you have 241 castings. if you would do anything get a set of 243s or do 706 with a 2.0 intake valve. this would up your SCR. if you plan on boost go 317 castings which i have a set for sale
So, you think i'm wasting my time by having the heads ported???
and why is it such a bad idea to have Jay port the heads? (the rest of you dont know who i'm talking about, but quik does)
and why is it such a bad idea to have Jay port the heads? (the rest of you dont know who i'm talking about, but quik does)
Originally Posted by SonofaBish
So, you think i'm wasting my time by having the heads ported???
and why is it such a bad idea to have Jay port the heads? (the rest of you dont know who i'm talking about, but quik does)
and why is it such a bad idea to have Jay port the heads? (the rest of you dont know who i'm talking about, but quik does)
Originally Posted by Quik
old school builders that dont know their way around Gen III heads can actually hurt performance.Brian had a set done up years ago by an old school porter and he hogged them out which was bad. these heads today flow well and even when ported they dont take off the much. if he only gasket matched them for about an inch in then yes. maybe polished the bowls but that would be the most i would have him do. enlarging and etc will hurt your car unless he knows his way around a Gen III head. but honestly just stepp up to a 243 casting which flows more then the 241 and will up your CR ratio. valves carry over you can find them on ebay new at 400 bucks or so
ah ****... i'm so confused on what to do... take heads off/leave them alone/buy 243's.... tear down shortblock/dont tear down... i get so many different opinions... i'm gonna blow up
Originally Posted by SonofaBish
243 casting are the LS6 heads??
ah ****... i'm so confused on what to do... take heads off/leave them alone/buy 243's.... tear down shortblock/dont tear down... i get so many different opinions... i'm gonna blow up
ah ****... i'm so confused on what to do... take heads off/leave them alone/buy 243's.... tear down shortblock/dont tear down... i get so many different opinions... i'm gonna blow up
replace the seals and see what that does
Originally Posted by SUX2BU
Seriously man, it sounds like you need to be listening to Quick. seems he has done his homework.
Originally Posted by Quik
thanks dude, im just trying to help him see what is out there and not to waste his money.
For example this one guys car i just converted from M6 - A3. He had an old school SBC guy port his heads and spec him out a cam. he said it "should" dyno 400 rwhp. After the tranny swap i told him that auto's don't dyno as high as six speeds so be preparred if its not 400 rwhp.
He dynoed 325rwhp TUNED!
I ,with just bolt ons, dynoed 335rwhp.
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Originally Posted by SUX2BU
i lost count of how many newb that have trusted old school SBC guys to work on their LS1's and have been SEVERLY dissapointed.
For example this one guys car i just converted from M6 - A3. He had an old school SBC guy port his heads and spec him out a cam. he said it "should" dyno 400 rwhp. After the tranny swap i told him that auto's don't dyno as high as six speeds so be preparred if its not 400 rwhp.
He dynoed 325rwhp TUNED!
I ,with just bolt ons, dynoed 335rwhp.
For example this one guys car i just converted from M6 - A3. He had an old school SBC guy port his heads and spec him out a cam. he said it "should" dyno 400 rwhp. After the tranny swap i told him that auto's don't dyno as high as six speeds so be preparred if its not 400 rwhp.
He dynoed 325rwhp TUNED!
I ,with just bolt ons, dynoed 335rwhp.
for instince, a local motor failed cause the motor builder that builds circle jerk motors installed the LS1 cam bearings wrong. they have to go in a certain way to help with oiling the cam, well the guy installed them wrong and the motor spun bearin within a few miles. or another local motor that went to a certain shop down by you Bish had severe oil leaks cause of the shop and how they stripped out the rear cover, also same shop that used the wrong rods on his motor the first time and made the motor run completly like crap.
also i can tell youre not to familar with this hobby since you wanted a forged motor or not having the money for it. honestly if youre not boosted or juiced or a exceptionly high reving motor you dont need that, its just wasted money and allows for the ***** factor
i never said i wanted a forged motor... that's exactly what i didn't want.... that's exactly what i had a few ppl tell me to get, and i said that was outrageous....
so... i guess i'm just gonna do the cam swap, put new valve seals in it, and hope for luck.... it'd be nice if it didnt make so much valvetrain noise, but.... i guess that's somethign i have to deal with...
so... i guess i'm just gonna do the cam swap, put new valve seals in it, and hope for luck.... it'd be nice if it didnt make so much valvetrain noise, but.... i guess that's somethign i have to deal with...
Ok, so if i put the cam in and put the vavle seals in.... can i expect immediate results, or will there still be some oil left in the chambers that is gonna burn off??
Am i correct in assuming also, that i shouldn't run the car hard for the first couple warm ups after the new cam/springs are installed?
Am i correct in assuming also, that i shouldn't run the car hard for the first couple warm ups after the new cam/springs are installed?
there will be oil still left, especially when you lost that much oil that often
as for the cam, you can do it to ways ***** to wall or do the proper heat cycle setup.
put it in run it for about 100 miles change the oil, run it again change the oil another 300 miles, run it again change the oil after 500 miles. this hopefully will get all the cam lube and material out of the motor. then run final oil like syn or whatever you use.
doing just the seals will be cheaper for you, some cam kits have them or youll have to contact GM and get it off them. i think they are about 70 bucks for the stock ones..
reason i say valve seals are the culprut theres a local car that does that same thing. the seals where never seated right and all it does is smoke and smoke bad enough that it actually raised the compression some since oil was in the combustion chamber. i wonder if you have the same seals as this local car. if you pull your covers and see different style springs and seals you deff had a cam in there.
as for the other noise these motors are noisy and are noiser with a cam
as for the cam, you can do it to ways ***** to wall or do the proper heat cycle setup.
put it in run it for about 100 miles change the oil, run it again change the oil another 300 miles, run it again change the oil after 500 miles. this hopefully will get all the cam lube and material out of the motor. then run final oil like syn or whatever you use.
doing just the seals will be cheaper for you, some cam kits have them or youll have to contact GM and get it off them. i think they are about 70 bucks for the stock ones..
reason i say valve seals are the culprut theres a local car that does that same thing. the seals where never seated right and all it does is smoke and smoke bad enough that it actually raised the compression some since oil was in the combustion chamber. i wonder if you have the same seals as this local car. if you pull your covers and see different style springs and seals you deff had a cam in there.
as for the other noise these motors are noisy and are noiser with a cam
Originally Posted by Quik
put it in run it for about 100 miles change the oil, run it again change the oil another 300 miles, run it again change the oil after 500 miles. this hopefully will get all the cam lube and material out of the motor. then run final oil like syn or whatever you use.
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just use plain Castrol or something?
I've been following this thread and thought I might add something. You said that your valvetrain is really noisey. I think you should check things like lifter pre-load and see if you have any bent pushrods. You did a compression check and came up fine, but with a noisey valvetrain and a lot of smoke and a good compression check, I'm thinking top end, NOT bottom end. It can't hurt to determine what shape the motor is in BEFORE you plan what you need to do to fix it. You just MIGHT need to pull it and re-do the whole thing, but as said above, maybe you don't.
Originally Posted by ArKay99
I've been following this thread and thought I might add something. You said that your valvetrain is really noisey. I think you should check things like lifter pre-load and see if you have any bent pushrods. You did a compression check and came up fine, but with a noisey valvetrain and a lot of smoke and a good compression check, I'm thinking top end, NOT bottom end. It can't hurt to determine what shape the motor is in BEFORE you plan what you need to do to fix it. You just MIGHT need to pull it and re-do the whole thing, but as said above, maybe you don't.
