Help quick with crank pulley
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Help quick with crank pulley So I rented the 5 ton 3 jaw puller from Auotzone (part 27078) and am stumped. The center section of the puller is threaded and comes with a long bolt, which is smaller in diameter than the stock crank bolt. How are you guys using this puller with the stock diameter bolt? My install has come to a sreeching halt and I'd appreciate any help.
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Ahhhhh, damn it. So I need to thread the stock crank bolt partially into the crank and then put the end of the bolt that comes with the puller up against the head of the crank bolt and then tighten the puller? Hope that makes sense, best I can describe it.
Originally Posted by 01formula6
Ahhhhh, damn it. So I need to thread the stock crank bolt partially into the crank and then put the end of the bolt that comes with the puller up against the head of the crank bolt and then tighten the puller? Hope that makes sense, best I can describe it.
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I understand how to do it now. I have the how to printed for the whole cam install. I think I just had a moment of stupidity when it came to this part. Thanks for the quick response.
I don't use the OEM bolt. Better to use a BIG allen head cap screw that just barely fits into the crank bolt hole. You do have one in a coffee can up there on the shelf in your garage don't you? You put a couple of large flat washers under the head of the allen bolt. The ID of the flat washers should be slightly larger than the OD of the allen bolt shank and the OD of the flat washer should be slightly smaller than the OD of the crank. Shove the allen bolt with the flat washers into the crank bolt hole. Mount the 3 leg puller (best type Posi-Lock: turns a two man job into a one man job because the 3 puller legs aren't flopping all over the place while your trying to mount the puller). Using the allen head cap screw the puller rod is SELF-CENTERING and you have no chance of damaging the crank bolt threads because your not pushing against the crank bolt threads using this method as you are when using the factory bolt to buck up against. Using this method your pushing against the face of the crank with the flat washers not the crank threads. Problem is when using the OEM bolt the puller rod wants to walk all over the place as you remove the pulley unless you drill a countersink hole in the head of the OEM bolt to keep the puller rod from walking(too much work) plus OEM bolt uses the crank bolt threads for leverage to remove your pulley which my method does not.
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I don't use the OEM bolt. Better to use a BIG allen head cap screw that just barely fits into the crank bolt hole. You do have one in a coffee can up there on the shelf in your garage don't you? You put a couple of large flat washers under the head of the allen bolt. The ID of the flat washers should be slightly larger than the OD of the allen bolt shank and the OD of the flat washers should be slightly smaller than the OD of the crank. Shove the allen bolt with the flat washers into the crank bolt hole. Mount the 3 leg puller (best type Posi-Lock: turns a two man job into a one man job because the 3 puller legs aren't flopping all over the place while your trying to mount the puller). Using the allen head cap screw the puller rod is SELF-CENTERING and you have no chance of damaging the crank bolt threads because your not pushing against the crank bolt threads using this method as you are when using the factory bolt to buck up against. Using this method your pushing against the face of the crank with the flat washers not the crank threads. Problem is when using the OEM bolt the puller rod wants to walk all over the place as you remove the pulley unless you take the extra time to drill a countersink hole in the head of the OEM bolt to keep the puller rod from walking(too much work) plus OEM bolt uses the crank bolt threads for leverage to remove your pulley which my method does not.
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I ended up using the longer M16x2x120 bolt that I got from NAPA. Ended up working pretty good. Pulley is off, nothing is broken/stripped out, I'm happy. Thanks.
