machining a new block
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
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machining a new block Let's say I had a brand new block and was building a stock cube motor (or maybe a stock bore, 4" stroker motor)...what type of machining would need to be done on the new block before assembly began?
thanks in advance for answering my noob question...
thanks in advance for answering my noob question...
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 321
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From: Buffalo, N.Y.
If it's a brand-new block, and you're sticking to a stock cube engine (OEM crank), then I'd say you wouldn't need to do any machine work.
If you go the stroker route, you'll be replacing the crank, rods & pistons, too, which means you'll be removing the main bearing caps, getting new main bearing cap bolts and/or studs, and installing a new rotating assembly. I would at least have the crank bore checked by someone competent, just to make sure it is straight/parallel/on-center. It probably won't need to be align honed, but if you're going to spend the bucks on a stroker set-up, it won't hurt you to make sure everything is exactly correct from the start. You'll need to be sure that #8 piston has had its underside machined, too, so it clears your crank's reluctor wheel. A lot of companies offer forged, off-the-shelf pistons with #8 already machined for a stroker set-up, but it's something you'll want to check. You'll also need to have the block clearance-notched for the rod bolts. Minimum clearance between the rotating assembly, and the block, is .030.
Don't forget new (aftermarket) pushrods.
If you go the stroker route, you'll be replacing the crank, rods & pistons, too, which means you'll be removing the main bearing caps, getting new main bearing cap bolts and/or studs, and installing a new rotating assembly. I would at least have the crank bore checked by someone competent, just to make sure it is straight/parallel/on-center. It probably won't need to be align honed, but if you're going to spend the bucks on a stroker set-up, it won't hurt you to make sure everything is exactly correct from the start. You'll need to be sure that #8 piston has had its underside machined, too, so it clears your crank's reluctor wheel. A lot of companies offer forged, off-the-shelf pistons with #8 already machined for a stroker set-up, but it's something you'll want to check. You'll also need to have the block clearance-notched for the rod bolts. Minimum clearance between the rotating assembly, and the block, is .030.
Don't forget new (aftermarket) pushrods.
