Tips/advice for H/C swap next week??
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From: Scottsboro, AL
Tips/advice for H/C swap next week?? Planning on doing a H/C swap next week. I've read the how to many many times, but figured I'd post up here to see if anyone had any lessons learned or tips/advice for the first timer.
More specifically, any advice for prepping parts prior to installing them? I plan on soaking the lifters in oil for a while, cleaning some things in mineral spirits, etc.
Is there any way to prime the new oil pump, other than unplugging the coil packs and turning the engine over for a few seconds?
Any advice you could give me would be really appreciated.
Thanks!
More specifically, any advice for prepping parts prior to installing them? I plan on soaking the lifters in oil for a while, cleaning some things in mineral spirits, etc.
Is there any way to prime the new oil pump, other than unplugging the coil packs and turning the engine over for a few seconds?
Any advice you could give me would be really appreciated.
Thanks!
- heat up crank pulley in the oven before you put it back on (about 200 degrees for about 15 min)
- unbolt both headers from the y pipe so you have room to move them around to get to the head bolts
- shop vac the coolant from the front of the block to prevent coolant going into the bolt holes and cylinders when heads are removed
- I used a swivel joint, socket, and extension on the lower bolt of the power steering pump and it worked great.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/502689-shop-vac-d-coolant-head-swap.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...d+install+tips
- unbolt both headers from the y pipe so you have room to move them around to get to the head bolts
- shop vac the coolant from the front of the block to prevent coolant going into the bolt holes and cylinders when heads are removed
- I used a swivel joint, socket, and extension on the lower bolt of the power steering pump and it worked great.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/502689-shop-vac-d-coolant-head-swap.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...d+install+tips
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From: Scottsboro, AL
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
- heat up crank pulley in the oven before you put it back on (about 200 degrees for about 15 min)
- unbolt both headers from the y pipe so you have room to move them around to get to the head bolts
- shop vac the coolant from the front of the block to prevent coolant going into the bolt holes and cylinders when heads are removed
- I used a swivel joint, socket, and extension on the lower bolt of the power steering pump and it worked great.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502689
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...d+install+tips
- unbolt both headers from the y pipe so you have room to move them around to get to the head bolts
- shop vac the coolant from the front of the block to prevent coolant going into the bolt holes and cylinders when heads are removed
- I used a swivel joint, socket, and extension on the lower bolt of the power steering pump and it worked great.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502689
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...d+install+tips
Keep it coming.
The heads can go on either side, so make sure you plug the hole where the coolant temp sensor goes on the pass side head. I didn't and was freaked out when I saw coolant pouring out of the head when I was filling her up!
Are the heads milled any? I hope u've considered PTV clearance and pushrod length.
Ohh yeah...one other thing is that u'll need make sure the wheels aren't turned so you can get the power steering assembly off. I had my wheels turned a slight bit.
Halfway through the teardown I realized I needed to take it off to move the header out of the way to get to the head bolts. The intake manifold was already off so I had to put a bucket under the fuel lines when I turned the car on.
Ohh yeah...one other thing is that u'll need make sure the wheels aren't turned so you can get the power steering assembly off. I had my wheels turned a slight bit.
Halfway through the teardown I realized I needed to take it off to move the header out of the way to get to the head bolts. The intake manifold was already off so I had to put a bucket under the fuel lines when I turned the car on. Last edited by Xtnct00WS6; May 10, 2006 at 05:36 PM.
I just got done installing one of my heads tonight.
Make sure you get a 3m plastic wheel to clean off the block with. It takes forever to get all the material off. I used gasket remover and every type of solvent I could think off and some material was still left on the block. It is a pain in the ***. Make sure you pay special attention to the area around the dowels...gasket material likes to hide around them. I couldnt get to it with the wheel so I used some steel wool to clean around the dowels.
Go to advance auto and you can find the wheel.
Also...when you make your first pass of 22 lb ft on all the 15mm bolts, make sure you go over them again. Almost all of them had loosened up on me and therefor would have thrown off the head bolt torque when tightening to a certain degree.
Blow out the intake and exhaust ports in the heads with air also. Some metal dust will still be in them from the porting.
You might as well remove the headers from the car...it will make things easier.
Make sure you get a 3m plastic wheel to clean off the block with. It takes forever to get all the material off. I used gasket remover and every type of solvent I could think off and some material was still left on the block. It is a pain in the ***. Make sure you pay special attention to the area around the dowels...gasket material likes to hide around them. I couldnt get to it with the wheel so I used some steel wool to clean around the dowels.
Go to advance auto and you can find the wheel.
Also...when you make your first pass of 22 lb ft on all the 15mm bolts, make sure you go over them again. Almost all of them had loosened up on me and therefor would have thrown off the head bolt torque when tightening to a certain degree.
Blow out the intake and exhaust ports in the heads with air also. Some metal dust will still be in them from the porting.
You might as well remove the headers from the car...it will make things easier.
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yep. would be best if used on something that can spin it very fast. A drill would work I guess, but not nearly as well. A grinder would be best.
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...666Wiwc7rrrrQ-
looks like the one in the top right corner of the pic.
they had one in stock at advance.
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...666Wiwc7rrrrQ-
looks like the one in the top right corner of the pic.
they had one in stock at advance.
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Verdad Gallardo Yes it is plastic...so it is safe for the aluminum block and wont cause scratches of any kind.
After doing both sides of the block I lost probably 2 or 3 of the little plastic bristles out of the thousand that are on the thing. It did not melt and I used a grinder with 150 psi of air in a compressor.
It became slightly distorted in the direction of the spinning and lost a couple bristles. I would guess it would be good for probably 4 or 5 blocks.
I would not do the job again without one.
After doing both sides of the block I lost probably 2 or 3 of the little plastic bristles out of the thousand that are on the thing. It did not melt and I used a grinder with 150 psi of air in a compressor.
It became slightly distorted in the direction of the spinning and lost a couple bristles. I would guess it would be good for probably 4 or 5 blocks.
I would not do the job again without one.
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From: Scottsboro, AL
To all that responded, thanks for the good info. I hope to get this underway early next week.
If anyone else has anything to add, feel free. I can use all the advice I can get.
Thanks!
If anyone else has anything to add, feel free. I can use all the advice I can get.
Thanks!
I would definately buy a set of ARP head bolts - worth the money ($140ish compare to $70 for torque to break bolts), they are re-usable and getting that stupid angle on some of those bolts is going to be a PITA if you use stockers
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From: Scottsboro, AL
'02SLP...thanks for the recommendation. I think I've got that covered. Here's what I plan on installling.
TSP LS6 CNC'ed heads w/comp. valve job and PRC dual springs
TSP 233/239 Cam
ARP Hex head studs
LS6 Oil pump
Comp 850 lifters
Comp 7.4 Chromoly PRs
LS2 Timing chain
32# Racetronix injectors
Taylor 10.4 mm plug wires
Also plan on doing new plugs (TR55s), poly motor mounts and a ploy trans mount as well. I think that covers all of it for the H/C swap. Still got some other misc stuff to do when I find time.
TSP LS6 CNC'ed heads w/comp. valve job and PRC dual springs
TSP 233/239 Cam
ARP Hex head studs
LS6 Oil pump
Comp 850 lifters
Comp 7.4 Chromoly PRs
LS2 Timing chain
32# Racetronix injectors
Taylor 10.4 mm plug wires
Also plan on doing new plugs (TR55s), poly motor mounts and a ploy trans mount as well. I think that covers all of it for the H/C swap. Still got some other misc stuff to do when I find time.
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good luck, I didn't do my installs. I had to pay the pros. Thank god for the OverTime money I had made. Without the OT I wouldn't be driving around such a speed freek. She's definately built for the top end. 200 mph isn't hard, keeping the front end down is. Looking into a new hood to release the air pressure (LIFT) and maybe we'll test the true top end of this girl. Good luck !!!!!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by '02 SLP#686
I would definately buy a set of ARP head bolts - worth the money ($140ish compare to $70 for torque to break bolts), they are re-usable and getting that stupid angle on some of those bolts is going to be a PITA if you use stockers
And as far as getting the angle it couldnt be made more simpler than in the instructions. Use a sharpie and all is fine. Its actualy a very simple procedure. Its a simple as putting air in your tires. Thread Starter
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Keep the advice coming guys. This thread is great help to me, and I'm sure it will be good for those down the road that want to do their own work as well.
Never hurts to have more than enough info on a job such as this.
Thanks.
Never hurts to have more than enough info on a job such as this.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Your over dramatizing it and being slightly ridiculous. The new gm stock head bolts are fine and dont break. And as far as getting the angle it couldnt be made more simpler than in the instructions. Use a sharpie and all is fine. Its actualy a very simple procedure. Its a simple as putting air in your tires.
And as far as getting the angle it couldnt be made more simpler than in the instructions. Use a sharpie and all is fine. Its actualy a very simple procedure. Its a simple as putting air in your tires.
Yes as simple as a click.. You use both. I've seen people have trouble with the cementing in of the ARP's as well. The choice is his. I personaly dont care what a person uses. Someone needed to correct your inaccurate description of GM head bolts and using them. They are ready to go as they are. Come with loctite already applied. If you know what vertical and horizontal means and can work a sharpie, it doesn't get any simpler. You torque them and then stretch them in sequence and BAM your done. Vertical line goes horizontal, etc. Thats all. Don't need to argue about it, just get the facts correct.
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Yes as simple as a click.. You use both. I've seen people have trouble with the cementing in of the ARP's as well. The choice is his. I personaly dont care what a person uses. Someone needed to correct your inaccurate description of GM head bolts and using them. They are ready to go as they are. Come with loctite already applied. If you know what vertical and horizontal means and can work a sharpie, it doesn't get any simpler. You torque them and then stretch them in sequence and BAM your done. Vertical line goes horizontal, etc. Thats all. Don't need to argue about it, just get the facts correct.
Appologies to marv... this has been
