Cure for the tick?!?!
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 229
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From: cobourg ON
Cure for the tick?!?! well I happened to change to rp the other day and that wonderfull tick got worse then it was with mobil1 so I flushed the oil again and went back and oil pressure seems to be lower then ever now. :S
Do replacement of the lifters emliminate the ticking or is it the lifter bores wearing? I cant figure out any other reason for the oil pressure to drop unless things like bearings and lifter bores were wearing.
changing oil wouldnt make me think things like this could happen but if anyone has an idea please let me in on it
thanks.
Do replacement of the lifters emliminate the ticking or is it the lifter bores wearing? I cant figure out any other reason for the oil pressure to drop unless things like bearings and lifter bores were wearing.
changing oil wouldnt make me think things like this could happen but if anyone has an idea please let me in on it
thanks.
good advice about cutting open the filter. Use a large ouoe (pipe) cutter if youve got one, or use shears. Dont use a hacksaw as it will leave filings.
Last edited by GuitsBoy; Jun 2, 2006 at 01:24 PM.
Originally Posted by sledneck687
i believe that you ment to say large pipe cutter. haha i read that and i could not figure out what that ment, untill i looked at the keyboard lol
Originally Posted by ShevrolayZ28
Are you saying you don't know what a "ouoe cutter" is? Maybe you're not qualified to work on your car.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 229
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From: cobourg ON
I'm running 0-30 castrol GC that is lol ya I know changing oil that fast isnt the best but the RP was ticking really bad. but now the pressure is lower by about 5-10 psi. I'm going to drive it for a while and when i do the next oil change (proly 500 miles) ill be going to M1 0-40 or 5-40 or posibly 10-40 but please let me know what u think.
As well Im looking at replacing valve terain anyways so will lifters fix the problem or is it a block clearance problem?? thanks
As well Im looking at replacing valve terain anyways so will lifters fix the problem or is it a block clearance problem?? thanks
Originally Posted by bifster
I'm running 0-30 castrol GC that is lol ya I know changing oil that fast isnt the best but the RP was ticking really bad. but now the pressure is lower by about 5-10 psi. I'm going to drive it for a while and when i do the next oil change (proly 500 miles) ill be going to M1 0-40 or 5-40 or posibly 10-40 but please let me know what u think.
As well Im looking at replacing valve terain anyways so will lifters fix the problem or is it a block clearance problem?? thanks
As well Im looking at replacing valve terain anyways so will lifters fix the problem or is it a block clearance problem?? thanks
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 229
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From: cobourg ON
im still running like 45-50 psi at idle alone and cruising it runs 60 and with my foot to the floor it runs at 70 psi above 3000 rpms so i dontt hink anything is wrong with the bottom end. Im pretty sure there is a distinct sound difference between lifters and rods guys... I am verry familiar with engines and have been around them since i was a baby and this doesnt sound anythign like a rod knock to me. plus its not just one thing knocking its multiple little things aka lifters.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 229
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From: cobourg ON
haha i know thats why im not too worried except I would really like to know what the actual problem is... wether the lifters themselves are what causes the ticking or if the lifter bores are being worn out with the lack of oiling as all these blocks are prone to.
please can someone answer that? will lifters cure the tick or is it the block wearing? thanks
please can someone answer that? will lifters cure the tick or is it the block wearing? thanks
Flushing a motor out with kerosene isn't the best thing for seals, but it does work fairly well. What most people forget, myself included, is that you have to pull the pan and clean out all the gunk that went from the engine to the pan. Since your oil pressure is lower after the flush, there is likely some gunk blocking the pickup screen causing a loss of pressure. Once you've done this, get a bottle of www.auto-rx.com. If your car has alot of miles, I'd do 2 treatments. Not only is this stuff more effective then flush, but it has a seal conditioner.
I went through this issue with my Grand Cherokee (318) that wasn't maintained very well before I had it. I ended up finding this auto-rx stuff after I had the pan cleaned and a new oil pump put on the Jeep. After 2 treatments, the motor was clean enough inside that you could hear the oil trickling down the motor when filling it up with oil.
Jason
I went through this issue with my Grand Cherokee (318) that wasn't maintained very well before I had it. I ended up finding this auto-rx stuff after I had the pan cleaned and a new oil pump put on the Jeep. After 2 treatments, the motor was clean enough inside that you could hear the oil trickling down the motor when filling it up with oil.
Jason
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 229
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From: cobourg ON
Sorry to misslead you about the flush but I didnt actually use a flushing agent at all I was refering to the oil i only had in for 80 kms lol. If i ever do a fluch on engines I use trany fluid as it has proper cleaners in it to break down the carbon deposits and doesnt tend to hurt the engine as badly as carosene or some other cleaners. the engine itself only has about 40000 miles so its barely broken in really.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 229
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From: cobourg ON
it could be yes but unless i bent more then one it wouldnt sound this way.. it sounds very distinct to the lifter ticking but I will pull the valve covers and check the rods here this week to make sure. thanks for the idea