Bad Motor
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From: B'ville, New York
Bad Motor So I have been have some issues with my motor the past two weeks and also sucking down coolant. The head gasket is leaking without a doubt. The guy I took my motor to said that I at the very least need to replace my piston and rings, we are not sure that crank is okay but there is a good vibration in the motor when revved up to 1700 rpm and then the vibe goes away
I'm not quit sure of what or where to start looking for parts. I know that I will have to pull the motor and take a look at the everything so see what I should replace. I have pretty limited funding so I don't know what I can do for a total overhaul. I might be able to spring for shortblock by late summer not sure.
Looking at just the piston/rings I would be in good shape with a package from Summit. What is the cheapest forged shortblock or even stock shortblock?
Any help would be great.
I'm not quit sure of what or where to start looking for parts. I know that I will have to pull the motor and take a look at the everything so see what I should replace. I have pretty limited funding so I don't know what I can do for a total overhaul. I might be able to spring for shortblock by late summer not sure.
Looking at just the piston/rings I would be in good shape with a package from Summit. What is the cheapest forged shortblock or even stock shortblock?
Any help would be great.
Why do you have to replace your pistons and rings because of a leaking head gasket? Dont buy anything till you pull the motor apart and see what can be salvaged and what needs to be replaced. Check TSP and SDPC for deals on pistons, rings and possibly rods. You can even find a mahle piston/ring/rod combo on ebay.
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You are definitely right about the head gasket leaking, its a totally different issue.
I have been having increasing hesitation and a ticking sound almost like valvetrain but I took it to one of the best builders around Syracuse, NY and he said that it wasn't valvetrain and that the motor vibration might be a bad crank but that he feels that the sound might be a bad ring.
I'm planning on pulling the motor apart and see what is good or not. I think I will get the Mahle setup from Summit rather then ebay. IF the crank or block is done then I will try and order the block from Lingenfelter. I just didn't know if anyone knew a shortblock cheaper that was better then stock. Although I would take a stock one if I can't find a way to budget the forged setup.
I have been having increasing hesitation and a ticking sound almost like valvetrain but I took it to one of the best builders around Syracuse, NY and he said that it wasn't valvetrain and that the motor vibration might be a bad crank but that he feels that the sound might be a bad ring.
I'm planning on pulling the motor apart and see what is good or not. I think I will get the Mahle setup from Summit rather then ebay. IF the crank or block is done then I will try and order the block from Lingenfelter. I just didn't know if anyone knew a shortblock cheaper that was better then stock. Although I would take a stock one if I can't find a way to budget the forged setup.
Sombebody in Washington was selling a forged shortblock with zero miles for $1500+shipping. From talking to him, I'd imagine he'd go $1800 shipped on it if he still has it. I almost bought it a few weeks ago but then got screwed on a set of heads and had to buy a second set and couldn't afford his block 
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Thanks guys I'll check them both out.
Do you have to unplug the A/C when I pull the motor, what else will help in pulling the motor. I haven't pulled an LS1 before, just some junk 3.1 V6s.
Do you have to unplug the A/C when I pull the motor, what else will help in pulling the motor. I haven't pulled an LS1 before, just some junk 3.1 V6s.
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I didn't see the forged internal kit from SDPC for $1500, I only see the Lunati kit for $3600, but there shortblock is only $2700.
If I'm going to replace my pistons what setup should I get for an N/A no boost in the future. What size bore and what piston head volume should the piston have with it?
If I'm going to replace my pistons what setup should I get for an N/A no boost in the future. What size bore and what piston head volume should the piston have with it?
Last edited by Mike2000Z28; Jun 6, 2006 at 11:37 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo Discharging the AC and dropping it is a lot easier. My compressor is bad...I wish I had a new one to replace it with right now, that job would be a million times easier with the motor out Oh well, motor is going back in today. Make sure you have plenty of 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm sockets/wrenches and extensions. That's just about what every bolt in the entire engine area is.
3/8" GM quick disconnect fuel line tool is like $6 at Autozone ("For 89 and newer").
Oh well, motor is going back in today. Make sure you have plenty of 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm sockets/wrenches and extensions. That's just about what every bolt in the entire engine area is.3/8" GM quick disconnect fuel line tool is like $6 at Autozone ("For 89 and newer").
That $2700 shortblock is probably cheaper than the Lunati rotating assy because for $2700, I highly doubt you're getting a forged crank, whereas the $3600 kit most likely includes the crank.
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Good point...
I notice that the stock bore size is 3.900 and so I hone the block to fit the 3.905 pistons but I haven't been able to find Mahle in Summit with -2.cc or anything lower then +4.00cc. With the reliefs what should I get for the piston head volume?
I notice that the stock bore size is 3.900 and so I hone the block to fit the 3.905 pistons but I haven't been able to find Mahle in Summit with -2.cc or anything lower then +4.00cc. With the reliefs what should I get for the piston head volume?
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
That $2700 shortblock is probably cheaper than the Lunati rotating assy because for $2700, I highly doubt you're getting a forged crank, whereas the $3600 kit most likely includes the crank.
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
Agreed, just stating the difference in prices.
Strokers or anything pushing like what...700-800rwhp+?
Strokers or anything pushing like what...700-800rwhp+?
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yeah the stock crank is good enough, its the rod bolts are downside to the ls1 and even then, they hang in there pretty good.
About the 1500 forged 347, Odd, the post was there yesterday and now its like it was never posted, hmm. I cant find it at all.
About the 1500 forged 347, Odd, the post was there yesterday and now its like it was never posted, hmm. I cant find it at all.
Last edited by 92SilverSHO; Jun 6, 2006 at 12:16 PM.
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Thanks for looking, I really can't get that excited/dissappointed till I pull then motor and then the expenses will have to work themselves out. Put for now I just want to get an idea of what I'm looking at in the long run for parts cost.
