Quench? 59cc AFR

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Jun 16, 2006 | 04:06 PM

#21

Tony Mamo @ AFR

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Viper

Each cc = .006 milled, so at 66cc out of the box, you need to take off .042 to get 59cc. I'm pretty sure it's 66cc out of the box....

You are correct sir....

Jun 16, 2006 | 05:06 PM

#22

miami993c297

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From: West Palm Beach fl usa

Milling the 205 AFR .030 means that you obtain a head volume of 61cc.

Was it your head volume Tony?

Christian

Jun 16, 2006 | 05:13 PM

#23

11SECSS

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From: Hampton Va

Dont some of the AFR's come 62cc so taking .030 off would get you 59cc.

Jun 16, 2006 | 05:37 PM

#24

Viper

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From: Cleveland, OH

Simple math

.006 = 1cc

A 62cc head -.030 would be 5cc or a 57cc head

Jun 16, 2006 | 05:52 PM

#25

DavidNJ

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR

NO copper spray. The manufacturer of the gasket calls for a dry install....I would imagine they know what they are doing.

I have built a handful of LS1's with Cometics and never experienced a problem with leaks. It comes down to the proper prep and two very flat surfaces. Assuming the block is straight and the heads are also (which can be checked with a machinist's straight edge if in doubt) what I have done successfully in the past is to use a medium length bodyman's longboard with either 320 or 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and I use WD40 as a lubricant. This is of course after removing the larger debris that might be left over from the removal of a composite style OEM gasket. The later model OEM stuff uses an MLS type which usually comes off without much drama or left over residue on the block surface. Anyway....work the longboard diagnally over the blocks deck (remove the dowels) and go in different directions diagnally right, diagonally left, and even straight across. Be generous with the WD40 and the paper will cut a little better and last longer. Wipe clean when your done and you should have a very clean shiny deck with no dull areas which would indicate a low spot. This process also removes some of the risers in the metal from the milling of the deck and leaves a nice smooth surface for the Cometic gasket to seal to. MLS style gaskets need a fairly smooth finish to seal up correctly. I usually do the exact same prepwork to the deck of my cylinder heads, even though the mill we use at AFR leaves them very smooth....I just spend less time on the heads because they are real staight and very smooth right out of the box...

Hope this info helps...

Tony

How do you keep in out of the bores and fluid passages?

Jun 16, 2006 | 07:33 PM

#26

Tony Mamo @ AFR

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidNJ

How do you keep in out of the bores and fluid passages?

Wipe the bores clean with a paper towel when finished....turn the motor over a little and wipe again....blow compressed air into the ring grooves (against the cylinder walls) to dislogde any small debris that might have gotten there. When I take out the longboard my surface is already very clean of major debris....the fine sandpaper really just puts the finishing touch on it and removes the carbon and other fine material that might be left as well as leave the perfact surface finish for the Cometic gasket which requires a very smooth surfac for maximum sealing ability. I dont care if some very fine particles get in the water jackets of the block....you can flush the system when your done with the job. If you took your time with the 1st part of the prep there will be little to worry about.

Tony

Jun 16, 2006 | 11:52 PM

#27

bandit_99

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR

NO copper spray. The manufacturer of the gasket calls for a dry install....I would imagine they know what they are doing.

I have built a Hope this info helps...

Tony

Gracias amigo. The process was very helpful. I was sweating it out wondering if I would get a good seal. I'm still sweating it out, but at least I now have a good procedure to follow.

Thanks man.
Dave