Quench? 59cc AFR
06-16-2006, 04:06 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Viper
Each cc = .006 milled, so at 66cc out of the box, you need to take off .042 to get 59cc. I'm pretty sure it's 66cc out of the box....
06-16-2006, 05:52 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
NO copper spray. The manufacturer of the gasket calls for a dry install....I would imagine they know what they are doing.
I have built a handful of LS1's with Cometics and never experienced a problem with leaks. It comes down to the proper prep and two very flat surfaces. Assuming the block is straight and the heads are also (which can be checked with a machinist's straight edge if in doubt) what I have done successfully in the past is to use a medium length bodyman's longboard with either 320 or 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and I use WD40 as a lubricant. This is of course after removing the larger debris that might be left over from the removal of a composite style OEM gasket. The later model OEM stuff uses an MLS type which usually comes off without much drama or left over residue on the block surface. Anyway....work the longboard diagnally over the blocks deck (remove the dowels) and go in different directions diagnally right, diagonally left, and even straight across. Be generous with the WD40 and the paper will cut a little better and last longer. Wipe clean when your done and you should have a very clean shiny deck with no dull areas which would indicate a low spot. This process also removes some of the risers in the metal from the milling of the deck and leaves a nice smooth surface for the Cometic gasket to seal to. MLS style gaskets need a fairly smooth finish to seal up correctly. I usually do the exact same prepwork to the deck of my cylinder heads, even though the mill we use at AFR leaves them very smooth....I just spend less time on the heads because they are real staight and very smooth right out of the box...
Hope this info helps...
Tony
I have built a handful of LS1's with Cometics and never experienced a problem with leaks. It comes down to the proper prep and two very flat surfaces. Assuming the block is straight and the heads are also (which can be checked with a machinist's straight edge if in doubt) what I have done successfully in the past is to use a medium length bodyman's longboard with either 320 or 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and I use WD40 as a lubricant. This is of course after removing the larger debris that might be left over from the removal of a composite style OEM gasket. The later model OEM stuff uses an MLS type which usually comes off without much drama or left over residue on the block surface. Anyway....work the longboard diagnally over the blocks deck (remove the dowels) and go in different directions diagnally right, diagonally left, and even straight across. Be generous with the WD40 and the paper will cut a little better and last longer. Wipe clean when your done and you should have a very clean shiny deck with no dull areas which would indicate a low spot. This process also removes some of the risers in the metal from the milling of the deck and leaves a nice smooth surface for the Cometic gasket to seal to. MLS style gaskets need a fairly smooth finish to seal up correctly. I usually do the exact same prepwork to the deck of my cylinder heads, even though the mill we use at AFR leaves them very smooth....I just spend less time on the heads because they are real staight and very smooth right out of the box...
Hope this info helps...
Tony
06-16-2006, 07:33 PM
#26
Originally Posted by DavidNJ
How do you keep in out of the bores and fluid passages?
Tony
06-16-2006, 11:52 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
NO copper spray. The manufacturer of the gasket calls for a dry install....I would imagine they know what they are doing.
I have built a Hope this info helps...
Tony
I have built a Hope this info helps...
Tony
Thanks man.
Dave
