99T/A

HaHa! That was a good one. Everyone has their own personal preference on what a perfornce car is but onlt the smart people prefer a LSX powered vehicle.

Rubadubdub

Lope doesn't scare me, it's just annoying and quite often unnecessary.

You're right bro. But if I needed an MS3 to run high 11s I'd reconsider my combo.

Rubadubdub

You sure do talk in cirlces. Ever work for the devil as his advocate?

I wouldn't buy a Civic with a fart can. Nor would I buy a British 2.8L V8 performance car. Kinda the same thing.

Ta ta.

99T/A

A MS3 is not necessarily a must to run high 11's. You could give it some boost or just treat it like a baby and feed with a bottle.

Rubadubdub

Here ya go, a little info just posted by Brian Tooley.

Look at the power difference between the little cam (216/220) vs the big cam (232/236) in the test. A whopping 20 FWHP which would equal roughly 15 RWHP.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/528602-massive-dyno-testing-session-revealed.html

300bhp/ton

Exactly.

I mean I personally have no interest in such vehicles as suped up hatch backs with small engines. But that doesn't mean others can't, and I'll just smile to myself as I pass them happy in the decision I opted for a peice of American Muscle

300bhp/ton

That's good and all, and that thread is interesting (read it earlier).

But there's more to it than just PEAK numbers. It's how long can it sustain the HP and as

HP = torque x rpm / 5252

It means the more more torque you can produce HIGHER in the rpms the more HP you have.

99T/A

I second that. I've seen some fast imports around Houston but here is my personal outlook on things. Imports are expensive as hell to modify. Why buy a stock and slow car for $14,000 then spend $35,000 to make it bad *** and insanely fast when you can spend $20,000 for a stock car that is already fast as hell then another $6,000-$8,000 to make it insanely fast? I think that is about as black and white as it can get.

TTPBilly

^ x2. wish i knew someone that had a fast ricer. Then i could ask him... "why?".

99T/A

^x2. I think their answer would be the same answer they would give you if you ask them why they can't outrun a LSX car. "They simply DON'T KNOW WHY".

blkZ28spt

Please tell us what is wrong about the following combo:

MS3, 4k stall speed converter, 3.23 gears, SLP underdrive pulley, lid, cai, ported TB, longtube headers, duals, LS6 intake, professional dyno tune, drag radials on the street and ET streets at the track.


My car ran a 12.62 with everything listed other than the tune, pulley, intake and cam ony the stall speed at that time was only 3500.

"It's better to be thought an idiot than open your mouth (or keyboard) and remove all doubt"

99T/A

Ok guys lets try this on for size. There is nothing wrong with the above combo. Or any other combo for that matter. The comment was made that if a MS3 is needed to run high 11's then that person would reconsider his options. First off it is all about personal preference. If you are happy with your car then that is all that matters. You are the one who has to drive it and if you like it great. If you are unhappy with the combo and/or the driveability then by all means change it. No matter what combo you run or don't run and no matter what other option you opt to go for there is still going to be at least one person or car that is going to crack you on the street and the track. You can never get fast enough cuz someone else has already done it so you are always playing catch up to someone else. If you like a combo awsome. If you don't then don't use it.

Rubadubdub

Nothing wrong with that combo. You have a loud, overcammed, slug. Exactlly what you wanted, Yes?

Plenty of full weight cars have gone faster with your mods but with a smaller cam. But you're a young man and want to impress folks with your big cam. lol

"It's better to be thought of as fast rather than actually being fast." You got that covered.

Rubadubdub

There are good combos and not so good ones. His is an example of a not so good one. I'm not saying he should be running 10s cause it takes a lot to do that cam only, but the car should go faster than it is with a cam that big. So obviously there's something amiss with his combo.

But I'm wasting my time in this thread. The trend now is lots of chop and loud exhaust. Want proof? Just take a look at how many guys on here ask "which is the loudest exhaust" or "I want a choppy cam, which one is best". You don't see too many older guys asking this. It's mostly younger guys who want to impress. These guys are willing to give up driveability for looks at a light.

Like the joke goes.......These 2 bulls are standing on a hill and looking at a heard of cows in a pasture. The younger bull says to the older bull....Let's run down there and **** us a cow. The older bulls says to the younger bull.....Let's walk down there and **** em all.

99T/A

Rubadubdub, you have a very good point and I never said that you didn't. All I am saying is that if the person is happy with a combo then that all that matters. It's kinda like everybody asking if this cam or that cam is suitable for a DD. It all comes down to personal preference.

DavidNJ

I really didn't want to be in this thread. However...

First, let me QFT JNorris's comment: a daily driver is what you are willing to put up with. A commute in LA or Manhattan would probably suggest a different cam than going to an oil field in Texas or Idaho.

Second, what cam you will benefit from depends a lot on what your engine looks like. Stock heads would need a bigger cam for a specific power peak/displacement than say, an ET265. Compression is also a factor. An engine setup for a late IVC may have detonation problems with a small cam. Other factors including combustion chamber shape, piston shape, quench, and octane also affect that.

Third, just having lift isn't a wear issue. The overall shape of the lobe contributes. Yes, a .650 cam will be harder on its springs than nearly any .525. However, the difference between a .590 and .640 is less clear. And the better quality springs will probably have a realitively long life in either situtation (one indication of better quality is a price starting closer to $300/set).

Finally, while not trivial, with a roller lifters changing a cam is not the end of the earth (no break in issue). The cam costs less than $400. If you don't like it, buy another and sell the first.

99T/A

^x2. Everybody says that a big cam will be a complete dog low end on the street. My car will be a DD but I am willing to sacrafice it because of the fact that it will probably see the track at least every other weekend. If I hurt it oh well I'll just go back to driving my 96 LT1 M6 like I am doing now.

blkZ28spt

Yes, my car is loud. It is a MUSCLE CAR, after all.

You still havn't told us what is wrong with the combo. Avoiding answering a question usually happens because you do not know, or do not want to admit you are wrong.

I don't give a rats butt that plenty of full weight cars have gone faster than me. I didn't set out to have the worlds fastest cam only LS1. By pure definition not everybody can have above average performing cars, you know.

You think 11.9 for a daily driver is slow??


I'll humor you: What could I do to go faster? Put a smaller cam in?


Oh yeah, BTW, have you checked the fastest cam only list recently? You won't see any 220 sized cams on there. I wonder why.............?

99T/A

I think this point will be kinda hard to surpass. blkZ28spt may some very good points here. 11.9X are very very respectable for a DD. Also people say that this cam or that cam is a dog as a DD because they have no low end power. The only thing is when they advertise the numbers that their car ran in the 1320 thats all power and they are usually trying to knock a hole in the firewall with the accelerator pedal. Yes a 220 cam will be a better street orientated cam but the #'s you run at the track are all high RPM power which the smaller cams don't deliver as well as the bigger cams.

Rubadubdub

99 t/a - High RPM power? With 3.23s? Need I say more? I guess I do.