Arp Head Studs
Arp Head Studs alright friend has a 346ci forged with arp head studs.. the head was leaking before so he changed the gasket.. anyways the heads were torque right but for some reason it still leaks but only a little bit.. i guess the ? is can i simply get a torque wrench and set it to 70 pounds and try and see if the torque is there.. or what should i do..?? anybody ran into this before and if so what producedure did you use??
If you are at 70 lb-ft already, then a check will likely show you are there because you have to break the static value. Are you sure about the torque wrench you are using? Flatness of heads?
Won't hurt anything to go back over them. Use a different torque wrench to eliminate that as a possible problem. My buddies wrench was off with his craftman. What gaskets did you use and were they new?
Originally Posted by vettenuts
If you are at 70 lb-ft already, then a check will likely show you are there because you have to break the static value. Are you sure about the torque wrench you are using? Flatness of heads?
yeah im sure that the heads are flat, checked them before we put them in.. about the torque wrench ill try a different one i have a few but i did my heads on my 408 and it hasnt leak?? maybe ill set it a little over 70lb-ft and see if it clicks
Originally Posted by strokedls1
Won't hurt anything to go back over them. Use a different torque wrench to eliminate that as a possible problem. My buddies wrench was off with his craftman. What gaskets did you use and were they new?
yeah ill try a different torque wrench .. the gaskets were new their i believe the new gm style.. think he purchased them from speed inc, supposively their re-usuable..
Take a breaker bar and back off one at a time about 1/4 turn then re-torque and move to the next one. If they are close to right, you will not overcome the static friction. I would also discuss this with ARP prior to doing anything.
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Take a breaker bar and back off one at a time about 1/4 turn then re-torque and move to the next one. If they are close to right, you will not overcome the static friction. I would also discuss this with ARP prior to doing anything.
if he just bought new ARP studs, he needs to tighen them, thne loosen them, then tighten them again... atleast 3 times.
the reason for this is the surface finish on the threads... imagine you're looking at the threads thru a microscope....when new, its all rough and peaky.. then you tighten it, and the friction of it sliding smooths it out some.... you repeat that a few times, and its consistently slick.... thats the way it is when they set the torque values... if you just tighten them the first time, you reach your torque value too soon, and the bolt isnt stretched enough...aka, its loose.
the reason for this is the surface finish on the threads... imagine you're looking at the threads thru a microscope....when new, its all rough and peaky.. then you tighten it, and the friction of it sliding smooths it out some.... you repeat that a few times, and its consistently slick.... thats the way it is when they set the torque values... if you just tighten them the first time, you reach your torque value too soon, and the bolt isnt stretched enough...aka, its loose.
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The way I see it., you could only still have a leak for a few reasons.
1)block or head was not completely clean before installing the new gasket.
2)bolts not torqued properly, or
3)head is warped
Since it was leaking before, and still is leaking even after the gasket was replaced, I would suspect the head is warped. Are you sure it is not??
1)block or head was not completely clean before installing the new gasket.
2)bolts not torqued properly, or
3)head is warped
Since it was leaking before, and still is leaking even after the gasket was replaced, I would suspect the head is warped. Are you sure it is not??
Originally Posted by dummer
The way I see it., you could only still have a leak for a few reasons.
1)block or head was not completely clean before installing the new gasket.
2)bolts not torqued properly, or
3)head is warped
Since it was leaking before, and still is leaking even after the gasket was replaced, I would suspect the head is warped. Are you sure it is not??
1)block or head was not completely clean before installing the new gasket.
2)bolts not torqued properly, or
3)head is warped
Since it was leaking before, and still is leaking even after the gasket was replaced, I would suspect the head is warped. Are you sure it is not??
HHHMMM good ?... i guess the only solution for now is to see if i can somehow see how tight they and they leak again after its tighten again then look at the heads and finally the block..
Originally Posted by MrDude_1
if he just bought new ARP studs, he needs to tighen them, thne loosen them, then tighten them again... atleast 3 times.
the reason for this is the surface finish on the threads... imagine you're looking at the threads thru a microscope....when new, its all rough and peaky.. then you tighten it, and the friction of it sliding smooths it out some.... you repeat that a few times, and its consistently slick.... thats the way it is when they set the torque values... if you just tighten them the first time, you reach your torque value too soon, and the bolt isnt stretched enough...aka, its loose.
the reason for this is the surface finish on the threads... imagine you're looking at the threads thru a microscope....when new, its all rough and peaky.. then you tighten it, and the friction of it sliding smooths it out some.... you repeat that a few times, and its consistently slick.... thats the way it is when they set the torque values... if you just tighten them the first time, you reach your torque value too soon, and the bolt isnt stretched enough...aka, its loose.
i didnt know you had to do this process on the arp bolts. when i put new head gaskets on my car i only did the procedure onces and they never leaked.
