383 Rotating Assembly
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383 Rotating Assembly If I decide on going with a 383 rotating assembly for my LS1 what size injectors should I go with and what fuel pump as well?
Will 42# and a 225 walbro pump be enough, what about if I add N20?
Will 42# and a 225 walbro pump be enough, what about if I add N20?
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What brand is better then others?
So far I've can get the pump and injectors as follows from NEW ERA:
Pumps are 108.95 plus shipping (unless you are coming to pick it up), and im
assuming you would want 30's or 42 lbers. The Bosch #30 are 269.95 and the
#42 are 319.95.
So far I've can get the pump and injectors as follows from NEW ERA:
Pumps are 108.95 plus shipping (unless you are coming to pick it up), and im
assuming you would want 30's or 42 lbers. The Bosch #30 are 269.95 and the
#42 are 319.95.
Last edited by Mike2000Z28; Jun 17, 2006 at 12:05 AM.
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I'll check them out, thanks.
TAQuickness, how did you get your 383? Is it a fully built shortblock or just a rotating assembly?
TAQuickness, how did you get your 383? Is it a fully built shortblock or just a rotating assembly?
Last edited by Mike2000Z28; Jun 17, 2006 at 07:24 PM.
I sourced the parts and had HPE to the machine work SB assembly. If I had it all to do again, I would have bought the short block from HPE. But I was looking for a project, and by God I found one.
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Starting to look at the project as a whole and struggling to find out what to do. Price is always a factor. I really can't spend more then $3500 this summer on the project.
1. Is it worth buying the 383 rotating assembly for about $2,200 and then spending almost $500 in machine my block and then almost $500 to have it assembled? I know alot of guys are going after the 402/408s but I though that you can't bore our stock blocks more then a 4in and have reliability.
2. Or if my block, crank, and rods are good just stuff some Mahle pistons and rings after the machining to the block and call it a day for now. Maybe even find a good used shortblock and just replace the pistons provided everything else checks out. What is the limit that you can bore the stock LS1 block.
3. What else other then the fuel system upgrade(42#injectors/walbro 255 pump) and tune do you think I'll need. I'm looking into all the gaskets as a kit for $239.
4.)What, if any thing, do you have to switch from your 346 LS1 to run the 370 LS2 iron block. I can use my heads and cam correct. I heard that you have to relocate a knock sensor. Will I be able to use my stock crank and rods (provided they are okay) and get forged pistons that match the bore of the 6.0 iron block.
It just sucks having to live up to "you have to pay to play" when you are not getting great pay.
1. Is it worth buying the 383 rotating assembly for about $2,200 and then spending almost $500 in machine my block and then almost $500 to have it assembled? I know alot of guys are going after the 402/408s but I though that you can't bore our stock blocks more then a 4in and have reliability.
2. Or if my block, crank, and rods are good just stuff some Mahle pistons and rings after the machining to the block and call it a day for now. Maybe even find a good used shortblock and just replace the pistons provided everything else checks out. What is the limit that you can bore the stock LS1 block.
3. What else other then the fuel system upgrade(42#injectors/walbro 255 pump) and tune do you think I'll need. I'm looking into all the gaskets as a kit for $239.
4.)What, if any thing, do you have to switch from your 346 LS1 to run the 370 LS2 iron block. I can use my heads and cam correct. I heard that you have to relocate a knock sensor. Will I be able to use my stock crank and rods (provided they are okay) and get forged pistons that match the bore of the 6.0 iron block.
It just sucks having to live up to "you have to pay to play" when you are not getting great pay.
Last edited by Mike2000Z28; Jun 25, 2006 at 07:03 PM.
