Rocker Problem
Rocker Problem Ok...started the cam install today. Every thing was goin great, got all of the driver side rocker arms off easy, went to passenger side bolt was VERY hard to break off, it turned but would not tread up,anyways ended up breaking the bolt off in the head. Went to the second one to see how it was, it wouldn' even move, so I called it a night. What's would be the deal for the passenger being different, i am gunna start to pull the head tomorrow, and i guess take it to a machine shop to see what they can do.
Thanks,
Chase
Thanks,
Chase
Spray some pb blaster on the head and let it sit overnight so it can creep down to the threads. Problem is the dissimaler metals corrode and basically fuze together. Plus they have locktight on them.
Ski
**Edit** MAKE SURE YOU BAG AND TAG PARTS INDIVIDUALLY!! DO NOT WANT TO MIX UP CAM GEAR AND RETAINER BOLTS ESPECIALLY!!
Ski
**Edit** MAKE SURE YOU BAG AND TAG PARTS INDIVIDUALLY!! DO NOT WANT TO MIX UP CAM GEAR AND RETAINER BOLTS ESPECIALLY!!
Has someone worked on this engine in the past maybe changing springs or the cam? It sounds like it from your description. The bolts shouldn't break off unless they were overloaded with locktite red on the full length of the threads. Did you see locktite residue on the threads of the ones you were able to remove sucessfully? The stock bolts have locktite on them, but only on the bolt head not on the threads.
Originally Posted by 1BADAIR
drill and use an easy -out.
they have loctite/thread sealer on the bolts cause they protude into the intake runners and can leak oil if not sealed
they have loctite/thread sealer on the bolts cause they protude into the intake runners and can leak oil if not sealed
You're going to have fun with this one! If this is a worst case senario which it probably is you're going to need a four leave clover to pull it off. Let's say the bolt broke off below the face of the rocker bolt boss and it didn't break of flush and square. Well you can't grab it to extract it and even if you could it probably wouldn't come out anyway because it's in there tight enough for you to shear its' head off. Add to that the fact that the bolt shank surface is irregular in shape because that's the way bolts break off and your going to have a real problem getting your drill bit started. You're going to have to grind or file the broken bolt surface flat so you can put a dimple in the center of it with a center punch. Not an easy task considering the bolt is below the boss face. If your lucky enough to get that part finished and then drill a hole in the center of the bolt you can use a #2 or #3. The bigger the better. If you get this far just be sure you don't break the easy out off in the bolt or you'll be in even bigger trouble than your're already in. If you get that bolt out you better play the lottery because it will be your lucky day. j
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Well, it must have been my lucky day, cause after about 30 minutes of straight drilling, put the easy out on the drill and backed that bolt right out of the head. It was a great feeling.
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Stock bolts, not previously removed, have a sealer/thread locker on the bottom of the head only, not on the threads. You can try a little heat on the others if you still have a problem. Make sure you are turning straight and using a six sided socket. Good luck with the rest.