Best Bang for Buck?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: MI, USA
Best Bang for Buck? Ok, well I've searched over a million websites all promising at least 50-80whp on a Head Cam Combo. Now these combos don't state if they are daily driving friendly.
This was my idea, instead of spending the cash on a head/cam combo which will bring you in the power range of 390-450whp. Adding all the extras you would need to get these mods safe would run you up an extra $500.
Soo, why not spend that cash on a stroker? maybe a 383ci. They are only $800-1000 extra and will give you almost similar results with the Head/Cam combo on a stock motor. Then once you save up again, you could buy a Head/Combo package and be over 550whp easily. and with the right choice of parts, still keep it a daily driver..
Is my theory wrong, or am I just a patient person???
This was my idea, instead of spending the cash on a head/cam combo which will bring you in the power range of 390-450whp. Adding all the extras you would need to get these mods safe would run you up an extra $500.
Soo, why not spend that cash on a stroker? maybe a 383ci. They are only $800-1000 extra and will give you almost similar results with the Head/Cam combo on a stock motor. Then once you save up again, you could buy a Head/Combo package and be over 550whp easily. and with the right choice of parts, still keep it a daily driver..
Is my theory wrong, or am I just a patient person???
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 14
From: England
Also don't forget labour, a stroker will require a lot more work to get running over a simply cam swap. Plus all the items like gaskets and fluids you'd need.
If you want cheap power - look at nitrous.
As for streetable, well that's an open ended question. What some may claim streetable is totally unlivable for others and vice versa.
Personally if I went for a stroker I would have to do it right and get all the extra's (read h/c) at the same time.
If you want cheap power - look at nitrous.
As for streetable, well that's an open ended question. What some may claim streetable is totally unlivable for others and vice versa.
Personally if I went for a stroker I would have to do it right and get all the extra's (read h/c) at the same time.
My 383 stroker (non-emission) car with heads, cam, 90mm intake, 90 tb, etc etc, makes 500RWHP/440+RWTQ. With bigger heads and a damn good tune you might be closer to 550...probably 520-530 ish at best. JMO
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Staging Lane
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: MI, USA
alright well let's say you have $5,000 to spend.. Or better yet $5,000 as you want to spend as a total.. your looking for a daily driver with no problems, the car is a 2002 Trans Am with around 50K miles on it... I know it's most probably been ragged the hell out of, so new internals are a go in the project...
First time in my life, I will be buying one suspension part, then one performance part in that order until I have my kit complete then do one massive install and change the car from day to night...
I'm new to the LS1 scene as I've been dealing with mainly Jap L4s and I6s..I'd love to turbo the T/A in the future, but for now I'd rather get as much N/A power out of it possible and then go FI!
Could you guys point me in the right direction?? I'm creating an exel file with each part (eg. Cams, Heads, Strokers, Valves etc) and prices to match. So as soon as I get the cash, I'll be purchasing them, keeping them locked up in my garage till I get the whole kit together and there you have it!
My initial goal is to get a 600+whp with the use of a Wet kit... and around 450whp N/A...
EDIT: There are no emissions where I'm at so I'm not too bothered about them. and i don't plan on selling the car for a loooong time to come, it will be my daily driver for a couple of years till i save up and buy something else, then I will continously work on the T/A and get everything from bushings to pushrods changed..
First time in my life, I will be buying one suspension part, then one performance part in that order until I have my kit complete then do one massive install and change the car from day to night...
I'm new to the LS1 scene as I've been dealing with mainly Jap L4s and I6s..I'd love to turbo the T/A in the future, but for now I'd rather get as much N/A power out of it possible and then go FI!
Could you guys point me in the right direction?? I'm creating an exel file with each part (eg. Cams, Heads, Strokers, Valves etc) and prices to match. So as soon as I get the cash, I'll be purchasing them, keeping them locked up in my garage till I get the whole kit together and there you have it!
My initial goal is to get a 600+whp with the use of a Wet kit... and around 450whp N/A...
EDIT: There are no emissions where I'm at so I'm not too bothered about them. and i don't plan on selling the car for a loooong time to come, it will be my daily driver for a couple of years till i save up and buy something else, then I will continously work on the T/A and get everything from bushings to pushrods changed..
Last edited by ME Performance; Jul 7, 2006 at 12:34 PM.
If you want forced induction, you need to build the shortblock with that in mind. If you want N/A car, you need higher compression. Pistons and heads and possibly rods will play into this. Decide what you want now, otherwise youll be buying a second motor.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
I agree with GuitsBoy.... my setup won't support a Turbo or S/C if I want the thing to last past a day. If you want FI, go with lower compressions, mild cam in the short term and then look at building up. You might not impress everyone in the short term, but you'll have something which can live and you won't look at a lot of out of pocket expense when trying to get where you want to go...600rwhp.