ok..i have a daily driven 98 z with 125k miles on it. i want a decently sized cam that you can hear at idle with a nice powerband that i can run with 918's and stock converter. i plan on a 3600 stall later on but cam first. what would you guys recommend? anything else i should do for insurance being its high miles...

 

Since its a 98 I would opt for some new heads, like the PRC LS6 CNC Ported Heads and get the 228r cam from tsp on a 112lsa it has a 1600-6300 RPM Power Band. While your at it and since your car has 125k on it get some lifters comp cam 4-850-16

PRC LS6 CNC Ported Heads $999
Comp Cams Replacement Hydraulic Roller Lifters $189.62
TSP Camshaft, 918 Springs & Pushrod Package $589.95
Cam=228R 112Lsa
I would jump to the prc spring kit just cause the springs are rated higher and it comes with everything plus tit ret's for only $100 more (the tit ret's are like $300 alone) and get a little bigger cam like the torquer 2.
And also since its got higher miles id suggest new timing chain, ported oil pump and some other stuff if youve got the $$$$$$$

Plus tune and it will be a good dd.

 

thanks...i was planning on double timing chain and ported oil pump...

 

anything else i can do with those heads, would ls6 heads off ebay be fine?

 

I don't know what cam you are really going to want to run with a stock converter. You will be leaving power on the table.

 

seems Like you would be happy along the line with the SPECS Of a Hot Cam.. Or some other that will be close

 

I recommend getting a stall converter first and using PRC springs. Then i say do full exhaust if you don't already have it, with an ls6 intake, lid, LT headers etc. Then save up again for your cam, ported oil pump, pushrods, springs, gaskets, timing chain and a tune the same day it's all installed. Personally i would also go ahead and put SFC's on it to take away the risk of dimples in the quarter panel.

 

TR224 112lsa is the best street cam on the planet IMO.
You went from just a cam to talking about heads now.

 

Daily driven, automatic & big cam do NOT play well with stock torque converters. If you buy a small cam that will mix well the the stock converter then you'll be left wanting more cam. That will likely lead to you spending more money down the line to replace it.

The best advice anyone could give you right now is do the stall first. If you buy a bang for the back brand like TCI or Fuddle then you'll probably be able to buy it and have it stalled for the same amount of money (if not less) then what the cam, oil pump, rods, lifters, ect would cost. With a 3600 stall & tranny cooler the car will be a whole new animal. You'll wonder why you waited so long to do this.

That said, I also didn't notice any sig or mod list given. For a cam to give you its all the engine needs to be breathing well. That means LT headers, catback (or cutout) and a lid. If you all ready have these then your GTG. If not then I would make them next on your shopping list.

Now that the car can breath and has a decent size converter you can make some real power with a good size cam. For a daily driver the FM13 makes a great choice. If you're ever planning to run N20 then TSP 233/239 on a 114 LSA might also make for an interesting daily driver

Finally you will definately need to get a good tuner to dyno tune the new cam. Automatics tend to run real rough with decent size cams until someone plays with all the magical numbers.

Good luck.

 

i did the big cam, stock stall thing. And it sucks to run low 13's with that.

if i could do it all over again, i would do stall and full exhaust, but its way too late for me.

 

i like the choice i made with my cam/stall and PRC daul kit from TSP. you wont get the big numbers but you can definitely feel it. until u get heads for your 98 you will be stuck with numbers like my 98

 

Get the MS4 , you can use it on stock heads and gain over 60 hp from what texas speed says. Get the LS6 pored oil pump, double roller timing chain, double springs, hardened pushrods and new comp R roller lifters and you should be set.

 

quick question but wont the double roller timing chain not clear the stock cover? i cant remember if i read that or just dreamed it up (yes i have no life that i dream about this website lol)

 

Just had the dr installed on my car they said nothing about fitment problems.

 

oh boy now that you upgraded you sig, now its a whole different ball game

Ok, First have you done a tune-up yet new plugs+wires????
NGK TR55 Spark Plugs $1.99 each
MSD 8.5mm Spark Plug Wires $59.99
Next LT's and y-pipe recommend TSP has a good deal on p-setters and a catted y-pipe for $700 or uncatted $500.
Then you'll prob want to look into a T/C This is where your goin to ask yourself what is my goal with this car? and id settle with around a 3000-3300 stall T/C I would say its a decent all around converter.Then while your in there try a shift kit. Now some people are prob goin to say that T/C with stock gears is not good, since youve got an a4 and if you go with the 3000+ stall id go with some gears around a 3.73. Get a good girdle strenthen up the rear a bit and get some good gear oil and should be gtg for a while.
Get it tuned and drive it around see how you like it.
Something like this set-up above will get you into mid 12's.
Now if your not satisfied with things want more power, now is when youd wanna get into the engine and do a H/C swap ls6 intake manifold or a 90/90 and all the other stuff I mentioned in my first reply up top.
Then you goin to have to match you cam with your converter.
Git'er tuned.

 

Call Allan @ FMS or Geoff @ Thunder Racing.
Bob

 

Upgrade the converter before the cam. I recommend a trans go shift kit, trans temperature gauge, subframe connectors, B&M 24k gvwr transmission cooler and drag radials (nitto NT 555R for street car) along with the converter. As for the converter itself, I would get a Vigilante (precision industries) or a Yank.

 

thanks guys, i think ive got it prioritized now, new plugs and wires were a must, 35oo stall, tranny cooler, shiftkit, sfcs, rear end gears, ls6 manifold (i can get one of these off a 01 or newer in a junkyard right?), possibly cam, springs, pushrods...sound ok?

 

BINGO : new plugs and wires were a must, 35oo stall, tranny cooler, shiftkit, sfcs, rear end gears, ls6 manifold. Dont forget LT's and y-pipe thats where alot of the power comes from. And dont forget tune.

You can get a heads and cam kit that comes with h/c,springs,pushrods,tit ret's add an ls2 timing chain and ported oil pump fuel injectors and u/d pulley good to go.

 

Let me give you some more advice. If you are planning on going with LT headers (highly recommended) then wait to do the plugs and wires. I paid to have my LT's installed and the shop didn't charge me any labor for the plugs and wires because they said they needed to remove the plugs and wires anyway.

The LS6 intake manifold will very likely not be found in a junkyard. You could get lucky but most people have either no luck or the junkyard wants top dollar for it because they know that supply and demand is in thier favor. I think I just paid $450 for a new one from SLP or you could look for one in the for sale section. Some guys upgrade to LSX and then sell thier old LS6's.

What gears do you have? If you have the 3.23's then I would consider keeping them. I love mine and have no plans to change them out unless I break my rearend. Then if that happens I get a free gear upgrade (so to speak) because the 12 bolts and 9" rearends come with whatever gears you want (you have to check a box for whatever gear ratio you want when you order a new rearend).

My priority list looks like this:

Lid & catback (you got that covered)
3500-4000 stall with tranny cooler
shift kit OR a stall tune (raise line preasure, turn off TM, ect)
Nitto Drag radials (best choice for a daily driver)
LT headers and ORY or catted Y
Ported TB (it's only $75)

Now I would start looking at decent cam or heads/cam package. If you do both heads and cam together then guess what? The intake manifold has to come off the car (great time to upgrade to the LS6 since the labor is mandatory). Also a great time to add a 25% underdrive pulley. I am having heads, cam, ls6 intake, underdrive pulley, rods, lifters, timing chain, ect installed for only $900. The reason the price is so reasonable is because the heads and cam makes the intake and underdrive pulley no extra work. So doing these upgrades all at the same time will save you money (if you pay a shop to do the install) or time (if you do the labor yourself). Either way you win.

At this point a dyno-tune becomes a absolute must. Then after that I would start looking at suspension. SFC, LCA and PHB are the most popular upgrades.

Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world I call the LS1 money pit