Experts wanted to finalize and critique my setup
AFR 205s/whatever gaskets and amount milled to acheive ~11-1 CR
XE-R 232/234 .595/.598 112+? The TSP Torquer cam
Underdrive pulley
I'm gonna go with Racetronic 42lb injectors and Racetronic fuel pump. I have a dry nitrous kit so that's why I'm going so large on the injectors.
I also know I am going to have to flycut the pistons to have safe piston-valve clearance. If anyone has this setup or knows how deep to flycut that would give me a good starting point to have in mind.
And yes I know about the other stuff like oil pump and timing chain.
Current mods in sig.
Any and all input is welcome and appreciated. Thanks guys
Just make sure you get the correct PR size after milling the heads.
Also remember to mill a little more then the calc says OR enter a 2cc piston in the calc so you can see what cc the head needs to be to achieve 11:1 CR after flycuting.
I personially would go 11.5:1 but thats just me.
Here is a link to see.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1426302
About the Cometic gaskets....I have heard alot about them leaking? Anymore thoughts on that?
11.5 CR? Would that be a little too high for pump gas? It does get hot here in the summer, been in the 90s this past week.
And on the pushrods...yeah, I will have to have that calculated after everything else is figured out to achieve the proper length.
Thanks for all your replies so far!
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AFR 205s/whatever gaskets and amount milled to acheive ~11-1 CR
XE-R 232/234 .595/.598 112+? The TSP Torquer cam
Underdrive pulley
I'm gonna go with Racetronic 42lb injectors and Racetronic fuel pump. I have a dry nitrous kit so that's why I'm going so large on the injectors.
I also know I am going to have to flycut the pistons to have safe piston-valve clearance. If anyone has this setup or knows how deep to flycut that would give me a good starting point to have in mind.
And yes I know about the other stuff like oil pump and timing chain.
Current mods in sig.
Any and all input is welcome and appreciated. Thanks guys

I would personally run that cam with zero advance (112 + 0)
Dont skimp on the CR....the big cam will bleed off a lot of cylinder pressure and you will have a "soggy" bottom end....compression is your friend and your going thru the trouble of notching....take the most advantage of the room you have. The right tune wont detonate with that much overlap, even on straight pump gas in reasonably hot weather.
A FAST 90 is an obvious choice for an intake here assuming you don't have one already.
Good luck....it should make big power if all the pieces fall into place.
Brian (Tooley)....Out of curiousity what exactly is the valve drop with the new TFS LS1 heads at a 66 cc chamber volume?? Thanks...
Regards,
Tony M.
Regards,
Tony M.
So the AFR at 64cc would be .110" valve drop? Which means the TFS have approximately .050" more P to V then the AFR at the same compression ratio.
So the AFR at 64cc would be .110" valve drop? Which means the TFS have approximately .050" more P to V then the AFR at the same compression ratio.
Note this info I posted about 6 months back.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...205+valve+drop
Here is the specific data I am referring to in that thread for guys not wanting to pull up the link....
Stock LS6 head @ 65 cc's .160 (with thin margin, lightweight factory valve)
AFR 205 @ 66 cc's (PN 1510) .176 (a little more than stock offering additional P to V)
AFR 225 "small bore" @ 65 cc's (PN 1660) .114 (obviously a fair amount less than stock)
AFR 225 "large chamber" @ 72 cc's (PN 1630) .147 (close to factory spec)
Tony
PS....Just to be sure of my former figures, I pulled a production 205 off the floor and actually got a valve drop of .188 (even more room). Keep in mind guys that slight variances in valves and valve job depths will obviously have a small effect on valve drop. Its these kinds of "stacking of tolerances" (among others) that I always preach to each individual to always check P to V, even if their "buddy" got away with it.
Last edited by Tony Mamo @ AFR; Jul 27, 2006 at 04:25 PM.
One thing that has sadly changed since I made this thread.......my poor 10 bolt I am afraid is on it's way out. I have been driving it easily here lately to preserve it til the new STRONG rear is here to take it's place. With that said, I will be using the money that WAS going for the heads, to purchase a new rear instead.
Yeah I know, I should have been getting a new rear first before making the big power, but it's hard to put money into something that is fine....or was. While it's not gone, it's beginning to make some creaking, and I think the posi unit is hurt.
One good thing though, is I will still be getting heads, but not at the same time as the cam, so this info will definately be used, just not right now unfortunately
Note this info I posted about 6 months back.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...205+valve+drop
Here is the specific data I am referring to in that thread for guys not wanting to pull up the link....
Thanks,
Tony
PS....Just to be sure of my former figures, I pulled a production 205 off the floor and actually got a valve drop of .188 (even more room). Keep in mind guys that slight variances in valves and valve job depths will obviously have a small effect on valve drop. Its these kinds of "stacking of tolerances" (among others) that I always preach to each individual to always check P to V, even if their "buddy" got away with it.
Unless you have drastically changed your program since the beginning of the year then something is WAY wrong here.
Unless you have drastically changed your program since the beginning of the year then something is WAY wrong here.
I came up with .181 for valve drop on a set of 205's. I will add that anyone can be off by a few thou, but still, even if .005 off, thats still alot closer to what Tony was claiming with his. Hope this info helps. Don Ricardo.....out.
Last edited by Rick@Synergy; Jul 27, 2006 at 05:57 PM.
Unless you have drastically changed your program since the beginning of the year then something is WAY wrong here.
Also, I just measured the one I checked a little while ago, but this time used one of the granite checking surfaces in the engineering dept to get a more accurate measurement. I did get a little less (about .181) so it seems my formica desk just isnt that flat....LOL Also, keep in mind that plus or minus a few thou is easily found in checking error (trying to keep the vernier caliper perfectly in line with the valve etc. ) I also checked another head to be doubly sure and got like .179
Perhaps others could chime in here as well.
Tony M.
Last edited by Tony Mamo @ AFR; Jul 27, 2006 at 05:44 PM.
Just saw your post....Thanks for chiming in.
And yes, unless you want to take the time to set up a dial indicator off the valve, a few thou difference in "checking error" is easily had because I had to check like 10 times to try and and get the same number to repeat (to the thou).
Good stuff....
Tony M.
Just saw your post....Thanks for chiming in.
And yes, unless you want to take the time to set up a dial indicator off the valve, a few thou difference in "checking error" is easily had because I had to check like 10 times to try and and get the same number to repeat (to the thou).
Good stuff....
Tony M.
Can you teach me how you do it? Maybe I will come up with something different? I am just trying to understand how two guys came up with the same thing. Thanks.
Rick





