shooting for 500@ the crank
#1
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shooting for 500@ the crank
I'm new to the F-body scene, I'm looking for an ls1 ram air TA. I'm tired of running 12's in my 5.0 which is stripped w/ no ac.
sadly, for all the $,$$$ I put in my stang, a lot of small bolt on auto ls1's can still take me even with full interior and ac, stock... which is why I want to make the switch, that and I've always thought the TA ram air is a beautiful car.
I'm tired of all the problems with bottle refills and thrown s/c belts so I'm thinking about sticking with na. I want it to be a bolt on car with H/C/I.
Will I be able to get close to the 500 crank HP mark with a set of 205 heads or will it take something nearer to 220-225 like the AFR's or darts to reach that #? I just want to keep reliability, drivability, and at a high with maintenance being just the average oil change and plugs when needed.
I was thinking that the LS6 manifold will choke a set of 225's, but will it be good on a smaller 205CFM head? If I'm spending the cash on heads I feel I might as well go with the larger 225's and a manifold that is suitable with a healthy cam with good duration but not so much that my powerband is tweaked way to the right(2,500 or higher).
The car will be a m6 and emmissions are of no concern. Any help is appreciated.
sadly, for all the $,$$$ I put in my stang, a lot of small bolt on auto ls1's can still take me even with full interior and ac, stock... which is why I want to make the switch, that and I've always thought the TA ram air is a beautiful car.
I'm tired of all the problems with bottle refills and thrown s/c belts so I'm thinking about sticking with na. I want it to be a bolt on car with H/C/I.
Will I be able to get close to the 500 crank HP mark with a set of 205 heads or will it take something nearer to 220-225 like the AFR's or darts to reach that #? I just want to keep reliability, drivability, and at a high with maintenance being just the average oil change and plugs when needed.
I was thinking that the LS6 manifold will choke a set of 225's, but will it be good on a smaller 205CFM head? If I'm spending the cash on heads I feel I might as well go with the larger 225's and a manifold that is suitable with a healthy cam with good duration but not so much that my powerband is tweaked way to the right(2,500 or higher).
The car will be a m6 and emmissions are of no concern. Any help is appreciated.
#4
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yeah i know the potential with just bolt ons but I really want that nice lopey idle that a cam with ample durati, on gives off, but don't really see a point in wasting the time and labor for a minimal gain from swapping the cam with no head changer.
I was just wondering what are the best heads on the market for a street f-body.
Tillery, hows Balad? I leave for Baghdad in October atleast it gets me out of cnt. texas for a year.
I was just wondering what are the best heads on the market for a street f-body.
Tillery, hows Balad? I leave for Baghdad in October atleast it gets me out of cnt. texas for a year.
#6
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Cam only cars are plenty fast. The stock LS1 heads are better than most aftermarket heads on other "late-model" cars. But, if you are on a budget, the TSP ported LS6 heads are a good value as are TEA Stage 1s and Patriots.
A good camshaft for a street-strip car would be something around 230 duration intake and a pretty narrow LSA, like 110, or a 112 with advance ground in (2-4 degrees). I'd recommend the Futral F13 112+4 as a great street and strip cam (specs: 230/232 .595"/.585" and will need new valvesprings/pushrods if you keep stock heads). When combined with any of the budget heads or the out-of-the-box Dart 205s (nicely priced), you can make a solid 420-430rwhp (about 500HP crank) with headers, intake, true duals or off-road y-pipe, ported throttle-body, (LS6 intake manifold if you have a pre-01 LS1), underdrive pulley, and lightened flywheel. You'll probably need to go to a 12-bolt or 9" rearend if you want to race with drag radials or slicks.
Another good combo that costs some bucks would be the F13 112+4, AFR 205s milled down for even more compression, FAST LSX 90 Intake Manifold and Throttle-Body, and more expensive Cometic gaskets to get the proper quench to resist detonation with the added compression. Something like that would be good for 450rwhp (525HP Crank) pretty easily and would have awesome street manners.
A good camshaft for a street-strip car would be something around 230 duration intake and a pretty narrow LSA, like 110, or a 112 with advance ground in (2-4 degrees). I'd recommend the Futral F13 112+4 as a great street and strip cam (specs: 230/232 .595"/.585" and will need new valvesprings/pushrods if you keep stock heads). When combined with any of the budget heads or the out-of-the-box Dart 205s (nicely priced), you can make a solid 420-430rwhp (about 500HP crank) with headers, intake, true duals or off-road y-pipe, ported throttle-body, (LS6 intake manifold if you have a pre-01 LS1), underdrive pulley, and lightened flywheel. You'll probably need to go to a 12-bolt or 9" rearend if you want to race with drag radials or slicks.
Another good combo that costs some bucks would be the F13 112+4, AFR 205s milled down for even more compression, FAST LSX 90 Intake Manifold and Throttle-Body, and more expensive Cometic gaskets to get the proper quench to resist detonation with the added compression. Something like that would be good for 450rwhp (525HP Crank) pretty easily and would have awesome street manners.
#7
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I just changed my loc, I am on my way there in aug, from ft hood. I just had aMS3 with some TSP 2.5 ls6 heads and duels and I am putting down 429hp dont know the tq. I gotta pay the shop 2400, but I also had alot of other stuff done also (like engine rebuild) These numbers came from a new engine so a little is left till it gets broken in.
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#8
Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
Cam only cars are plenty fast. The stock LS1 heads are better than most aftermarket heads on other "late-model" cars. But, if you are on a budget, the TSP ported LS6 heads are a good value as are TEA Stage 1s and Patriots.
A good camshaft for a street-strip car would be something around 230 duration intake and a pretty narrow LSA, like 110, or a 112 with advance ground in (2-4 degrees). I'd recommend the Futral F13 112+4 as a great street and strip cam (specs: 230/232 .595"/.585" and will need new valvesprings/pushrods if you keep stock heads). When combined with any of the budget heads or the out-of-the-box Dart 205s (nicely priced), you can make a solid 420-430rwhp (about 500HP crank) with headers, intake, true duals or off-road y-pipe, ported throttle-body, (LS6 intake manifold if you have a pre-01 LS1), underdrive pulley, and lightened flywheel. You'll probably need to go to a 12-bolt or 9" rearend if you want to race with drag radials or slicks.
Another good combo that costs some bucks would be the F13 112+4, AFR 205s milled down for even more compression, FAST LSX 90 Intake Manifold and Throttle-Body, and more expensive Cometic gaskets to get the proper quench to resist detonation with the added compression. Something like that would be good for 450rwhp (525HP Crank) pretty easily and would have awesome street manners.
A good camshaft for a street-strip car would be something around 230 duration intake and a pretty narrow LSA, like 110, or a 112 with advance ground in (2-4 degrees). I'd recommend the Futral F13 112+4 as a great street and strip cam (specs: 230/232 .595"/.585" and will need new valvesprings/pushrods if you keep stock heads). When combined with any of the budget heads or the out-of-the-box Dart 205s (nicely priced), you can make a solid 420-430rwhp (about 500HP crank) with headers, intake, true duals or off-road y-pipe, ported throttle-body, (LS6 intake manifold if you have a pre-01 LS1), underdrive pulley, and lightened flywheel. You'll probably need to go to a 12-bolt or 9" rearend if you want to race with drag radials or slicks.
Another good combo that costs some bucks would be the F13 112+4, AFR 205s milled down for even more compression, FAST LSX 90 Intake Manifold and Throttle-Body, and more expensive Cometic gaskets to get the proper quench to resist detonation with the added compression. Something like that would be good for 450rwhp (525HP Crank) pretty easily and would have awesome street manners.
LS1 heads??
#9
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is the stock ls1 TA cam kinda on the weak side? Would I even see a decent game with a cam only swap on stock heads with all the other basic bolt ons.
I've heard with the 01+ cars with the ls6 manifold the power is only slightly better(5HP?) because the cam is a little lighter on lift and dur. than the earlier models. If I can get an 01+ car and do a cam swap I think I should get a decent gain from matching the ls6 intake flow(maybe 20-30 HP) as long as the heads are not the bottle neck point
I've heard with the 01+ cars with the ls6 manifold the power is only slightly better(5HP?) because the cam is a little lighter on lift and dur. than the earlier models. If I can get an 01+ car and do a cam swap I think I should get a decent gain from matching the ls6 intake flow(maybe 20-30 HP) as long as the heads are not the bottle neck point