How to get 500 rwhp
#21
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so let me get this right.. lets say i bought the TSP forged 347 shortblock and put on some Dart LS1 heads w/ 80 mm TB and LS6 intake w/ my SLP LT's and exhaust..what could i expect power wise and since it would be forged i could spray on it but how much spray could i /should I use?
#22
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Originally Posted by Black FormulaLs1
so let me get this right.. lets say i bought the TSP forged 347 shortblock and put on some Dart LS1 heads w/ 80 mm TB and LS6 intake w/ my SLP LT's and exhaust..what could i expect power wise and since it would be forged i could spray on it but how much spray could i /should I use?
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You should be roughly mid 400s at the wheels NA.
#23
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My 01 A4 ss has mti clear lid, headers, off road y, corsa and a 175 shot of "my" nx dry kit and it hit 497hp 537tq at the wheels. but it was leaking juice from the lid. I'd say do that, simple but effective.
#26
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Originally Posted by ls1muscle
AFR 205's 59cc, G5x4, ported FAST 90/90, electric water pump, pulley, 85mm MAF, QTP 1 3/4 HVMC Longtubes + dumped exhaust.
That combo should hit 500 rwhp.
That combo should hit 500 rwhp.
The X4 wouldn't improve much on my setup. Maybe 10 rwhp up top at the cost of 15 or more rwhp down low and through the power band.
A Mamo ported 90/90 setup should put me real close to 490 rwhp with a good tune. Going to be adding this next year and a few other things as well. Not saying what at this time, the boys at LG are working out the details for me right now.
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Hope this helps since I have already went the route suggested above, basically. Another suggestion high compression and some more cubes, but then you need race fuel and that stuff is EXPENSIVE>
Good luck !!!!!!!1
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#30
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Full Bolt-Ons and a great Heads/Cam package will get you in the upper 400 range, then throw on a 100 shot of n2o and you have got yourself a badass n/a car and a scary car on the juice.
Or go FI with a procharger or turbo setup...full bolt-ons plus a procharger should be about 500rwhp, pending on what boost you run....same thing with a turbo, except with a turbo you should have boost controller, then you could daily drive it at 450 and track it at 500.
Then again, you could cheat and put a different engine in...then all sorts of possibilities open up...
Or go FI with a procharger or turbo setup...full bolt-ons plus a procharger should be about 500rwhp, pending on what boost you run....same thing with a turbo, except with a turbo you should have boost controller, then you could daily drive it at 450 and track it at 500.
Then again, you could cheat and put a different engine in...then all sorts of possibilities open up...
#31
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Originally Posted by allngn_c5
I have that combo but with LG's headers, and an X3 not an X4, and using a FAST 78 mm with a VaraRam ram air kit. I hit 473 rwhp and 431 rwtq.
The X4 wouldn't improve much on my setup. Maybe 10 rwhp up top at the cost of 15 or more rwhp down low and through the power band.
A Mamo ported 90/90 setup should put me real close to 490 rwhp with a good tune. Going to be adding this next year and a few other things as well. Not saying what at this time, the boys at LG are working out the details for me right now.
Hope this helps since I have already went the route suggested above, basically. Another suggestion high compression and some more cubes, but then you need race fuel and that stuff is EXPENSIVE>
Good luck !!!!!!!1![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
The X4 wouldn't improve much on my setup. Maybe 10 rwhp up top at the cost of 15 or more rwhp down low and through the power band.
A Mamo ported 90/90 setup should put me real close to 490 rwhp with a good tune. Going to be adding this next year and a few other things as well. Not saying what at this time, the boys at LG are working out the details for me right now.
![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
Hope this helps since I have already went the route suggested above, basically. Another suggestion high compression and some more cubes, but then you need race fuel and that stuff is EXPENSIVE>
Good luck !!!!!!!1
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#32
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Several possibilities I am debating right now for myself
Stock 346, add Diamond -4cc Forged pistons, Chrome top piston rings, Callies Compstar Connecting rods, ARP rod bolts, ARP main caps, PRC Terminator 200CC heads OR AFR 205cc heads-mill either set to 59cc chamber and run appropriate gasket to get optimal compression (not sure the size yet, haven't looked that far into it), Mamo ported 90/90 setup, Morel lifters, Comp 921s, chromely 7.4 pushrods, Trex on LSK lobes (242/248, .649/.649 108 or 109 LSA), double roller timing chain, ported LS6 pump. That should net damn near 500rwhp with a pretty disgusting torque number. With my setup (4400 stall, 4.10s) it should run like a raped ape and kiss 10s no problem. With the forged internals and new rods and bolts you could spin to 7500 no problem I would imagine If I go this route I may raise the LSA on the cam to be more 200-300 shot N20 friendly to take full advantage of the new internals.
Get a 408 shortblock from a sponsor with fully forged internals, throw on some budget CNC LS6 or 6.0l heads, off the shelf big cube cam (Texas Giant for example), Vic Jr. intake, 42lb injectors, 255walbro, larger lines and drive it while I save up some dough. Buy some low compression ETP 245s, blower cam and Turbo Zone TT kit =)
You could get close to 500rwhp with a 346 NA but you will sacrifice a lot.
Drivability- You will need a cam in the 24x range with some big lift, top of the line valvetrain to go along with it. With a cam that size you lose low end so you'll beed 4.10s and a 4400 stall in an auto or 4.56s in an M6 (bye bye rear end and gas mileage). You will need top of the line parts pushed to their limit, so once you hit 500, you're stuck there unless you spray or change your entire setup for boost. I would just go with larger cubes if I were you =)
Stock 346, add Diamond -4cc Forged pistons, Chrome top piston rings, Callies Compstar Connecting rods, ARP rod bolts, ARP main caps, PRC Terminator 200CC heads OR AFR 205cc heads-mill either set to 59cc chamber and run appropriate gasket to get optimal compression (not sure the size yet, haven't looked that far into it), Mamo ported 90/90 setup, Morel lifters, Comp 921s, chromely 7.4 pushrods, Trex on LSK lobes (242/248, .649/.649 108 or 109 LSA), double roller timing chain, ported LS6 pump. That should net damn near 500rwhp with a pretty disgusting torque number. With my setup (4400 stall, 4.10s) it should run like a raped ape and kiss 10s no problem. With the forged internals and new rods and bolts you could spin to 7500 no problem I would imagine If I go this route I may raise the LSA on the cam to be more 200-300 shot N20 friendly to take full advantage of the new internals.
Get a 408 shortblock from a sponsor with fully forged internals, throw on some budget CNC LS6 or 6.0l heads, off the shelf big cube cam (Texas Giant for example), Vic Jr. intake, 42lb injectors, 255walbro, larger lines and drive it while I save up some dough. Buy some low compression ETP 245s, blower cam and Turbo Zone TT kit =)
You could get close to 500rwhp with a 346 NA but you will sacrifice a lot.
Drivability- You will need a cam in the 24x range with some big lift, top of the line valvetrain to go along with it. With a cam that size you lose low end so you'll beed 4.10s and a 4400 stall in an auto or 4.56s in an M6 (bye bye rear end and gas mileage). You will need top of the line parts pushed to their limit, so once you hit 500, you're stuck there unless you spray or change your entire setup for boost. I would just go with larger cubes if I were you =)