Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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What valves would you recommend?

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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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Default What valves would you recommend?

I just purchase bare CNC ported 853 castings for my 347 forged short block. I have Comp 918 springs, Ti retainers, and an F10 112 LSA cam. I need to purchase valves, but have no idea what size or company to purchase from.

It's been recommended to me to use stock LS6 sodium filled valves, I haven't been able to locate any used. The other brand I've been looking at are Ferra.

Any suggestions or recommendations? Anyone have LS6 vavles for sale?
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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 11:27 AM
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I believe Lingenfelter has a stock of used LS6 valves...or they used to. Give them a call.
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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 01:17 PM
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If you decide to with Ferrea, let us know. We can give you an excellent price on a set.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 01:13 AM
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Stay away from 2 piece vavles like the LS6'ers. They are the reason I bought my first forged motor when one broke in 2. Stay with a good one piece steel valve that is undercut.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 02:16 AM
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If you are running the lighter valves, it takes less spring pressure to control it...keeping the two halves the way they were intended to stay, in one piece. This of course assumes you are not going to spin crazy rpm's. There is alot to be said about upper rpm valve control. A heavier/larger valve combined with a heavier spring and retainer do not always make more power. The lighter valve with the light behive spring could possibly have much better control than the heavier single piece valves. Bouncing valves could not only damage a two piece valve, but beat up a heavier one piecer as well. Not to mention valve jobs. I say with the F10 go with the lighter valve, behive springs, titanium retainers, and rebuilt rockers.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 07:47 AM
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Kateck has new sodium filled also try SDPC.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by chino_man279
If you are running the lighter valves, it takes less spring pressure to control it...keeping the two halves the way they were intended to stay, in one piece. This of course assumes you are not going to spin crazy rpm's. There is alot to be said about upper rpm valve control. A heavier/larger valve combined with a heavier spring and retainer do not always make more power. The lighter valve with the light behive spring could possibly have much better control than the heavier single piece valves. Bouncing valves could not only damage a two piece valve, but beat up a heavier one piecer as well. Not to mention valve jobs. I say with the F10 go with the lighter valve, behive springs, titanium retainers, and rebuilt rockers.
Proper spring pressure and a steel valve is all that is needed to get to 7k rpms and if you run lightweight valves what is the point if not to rev it to that same level. If the GM hollow stems were so great, then where are the after market ported heads running them with the same results as cartek, LG, Lingenfelter? Lightweight valves are only needed in high rev applications where GM's crap gave out on me.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Personally, I went with 2.02 ferrea 6000 intake valves, and manley 1.575" exhausts. Not sure how they work, but they aren't 2-piece either. I won't need over 7,000 rpm to run the number I want to run.
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