I think he will be absolutely fine buying a 408 or 402 shortblock from one of the sponsors. I have seen very. very few issues with them. I don't think resleeving the block is necessary unless you have a huge *** power adder. I am planning a 408 build to handle 2 turbos and 800rwhp but as of yet, no one, not even the vendors, have told me resleeving the block would be necessary.

If you plan on running N20, you might as well build the motor to handle the power. Diamond forged and dished pistons (dished for a larger cam and less PV issues), N20 piston rings, Callies connecting rods, ARP rod bolts, ARP main caps, ARP everything actually. You might as well up the injector size and fuel pump before you get the tune so you are safe enough for a 300 shot.

 

I am agreeing with all of this....

what is wrong with the ZEX kit...just wondering...im open to all sponsors...all suppliers, and all ideas....


Lets say I go 383, will the power i leave on the table compared to the 402/8 going to be that much?

Also, if I go 408/2....will I lose low end streetable power...it is a street car that sees track 2 oe 3 times a year for fun

Erik

 

with any stroker motor you will pick up quied a bit of torque,probbly pick up more tq than hp.sdpc has shortblocks in stock that are built for n/a but they might handle some spray.most of the sponsors i have talked to this week has a 3-4 week lead time

 

now... actually the opposite will happen...


Take a look at the LS2 dyno vs the LS6.... Similar peaks.... but the larger cube LS2 does better down low.

 

Most sponsors will build you a 408 for the same price as a 383 if you don't have a core (LS6 block and LQ9 block are both about $600). So, if you want to sell your engine without using it as a core (which is a better idea--would be worth more than $600) then you might as well go 408 or 402 (roughly $600 more with the block and needed accessories).

A 408/402 will make more power everywhere with the same head/cam combo as a 383 (more compression and more displacement, and displacement directly effects the torque numbers). A 402/408 will allow better heads (unshroded valves due to the 4+" bore) and a larger cam without any sacrifice in streetability, so the gap will widen even further if you want a streetable package.

Now, for a 402 vs 408, the advantage of a 402 is of course less weight compared to a 408, which is why a lot of people want to go with it. But remember, the LT1 cars didn't handle any worse than the LS1s and they had iron block engines. However, it is easier to run more timing in an all aluminum engine.

The advatage of the 408 is strength (and yes, the LS2 is plenty strong for lots of nitrous and boost), but I'm talking the ability of the block to hold cylinder shape. A 402 will deflect more and put a lot of stress on the main caps (but not as badly as the LS1) and usually become out of round, where the cylinders are no longer uniform and the block needs to be honed to correct. Iron blocks do not have this problem. This deflection in turn puts a lot of stress on the bearings if the tolerances are pushed out of spec. For this reason alone, an iron block is easier to rebuild (will require less of an overbore to fix the cylinder) and should have longer bearing life. The iron block is also easier to cool since the water passages in the LS2 have been reduced from the LS1 (LS2 = siamesed bore).

I'd recommend a 408 with AFR 225s or ETP 240s.

 

wow....that was great JakeFusion...thanks a lot...
I def want to sell my stock engine...it has 19k miles on it, and besides a march UD pulley and some NGK's it is stock....bone stock....
would I be better off selling my engine after my build on eBay??

I want to go about this the easiest most economical way of course, but i DO NOt want to sacrifice quality..

 

by the way...one of the reason i liked the 408 is becase you can swap parts easily from the 346, unlike the 402

 

I don't know about eBay's policies on selling items like an engine. I've only tried to sell a car on there once, but eBay takes a sizeable percentage of auction on very expensive items. I would think you could sell it on here or locally to a hot rodder without much trouble for a very nice price. If not, then eBay becomes the alternative. But, I would try to sell through forums like this or through your local papers first.

 

truu
yeah yeah what was i thinking...screw eBay...+1 for the "tech"
i see the votes are about split...which is a surprise..I woudl have thought that the 408 for sure woudl have killed the 383 choice....
does anyone have any sponsors they recommend i call to talk with about what I woudl like to do...
I dont know if anyone sa, but the Aug issue of GM High Tech has a huge article about building your first 383 stroker...quite interesting...
One of the reasons I considered building a new engine in the first place..

 

HPE, LME, Futral, Thunder, Rapid, TSP, NLP, and others.

Personally, I would order from either HPE or LME (both in Texas). Futral or Thunder are also quite good (both in Louisiana). Here in Florida there are some reputable tuners like Mike Norris at NLP. Then there are companies like TSP that can send you complete longblocks at a fair price. Jeremy Formato at Rev Extreme is an excellent tuner, so is Mike Norris, Geoff @ Thunder, Alan Futral, and SQR in Texas.

 

cool ok
I will talk to them see whats up...I know Jeremy, Ill call him and see what he thinks..
Erik

 

Eastside has built alot of 400+ ci motors and stroker setups.. you might want to call them too... I talked to alot of people, and I ended up having them build the motor because I felt the most comfortable with their feedback to what it is that I wanted to accomplish, and the $ was as good as anyone else was talking for a similar level build as what I went with.

 

Yeah 408/402 Thats what I am tossing between

 

Bryan @ LME is building my 408.....I get it next week...can't wait

 

Ok, I have been doing some research...and have a question...

What are the advantages of going 383 402 or 408 over the stock block and a great set of heads and a cam....is it just the fact that the rotating assembly is forged?
Don't get me wrong..there is no replacement for diplacement...but $4000+ for realistically 500 RWHP seems a bit much when guys are getting very close to that number with stock 346's, top of the line heads, a larger cam and full bolt on's..(I believe someone hit 480-90 RWHP arer mods and tuning from Texas-Speed.

not trying to be a smart *** or anything...just want to get down to the nitty gritty of why guys spend all the money on a new block and all!

THANKS!!

 

Me personally, it's all in the torque...You can't beat the pulling power in a stroked motor......Also,,when you start from scratch, you can tell your builder exactly what you intend what you plan on wanting the motor to do...Lme knows what I want and my goals for my 408......I wish it only cost me 4-5k...

 

haha im thinking forged 346 with a 383 stroker kit...for economical purposes, and the power is what I want...anymore i feel is overkill for the time being...when i get a career and lots of $, i will go FI with a big cube for sure, why the hell not hahah

How does this sound guys:
Forged 346, Lunati (or similar brand) stroker 383 kit, 90/90, MS3, Terminator 200CC heads, all ARP heardware, textralia, 9", and maybe spray we'll see if i need it...

this plan is tenative of course, and can change, any recommendations are welcomed!

 

i also saw that TR sells a shortblock 383 stroker package im liking that!

 

A core block which is usually the block/crank/rods/pistons goes for $600-800, if your having a motor done (383), I would venture too guess you would/should be able to get at least $2,000 maybe more.

 

I voted 383, I'm very happy with the power it makes and when I hit with the 150 shot....I will be even more