Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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anyone got a 228/232 110 +2

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Old 09-02-2006, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by bad6as
so is this cam like the best to go with for a more agressive street car that makes great hp and tq and you dont have to rev it out that much with a baddasss lope
I guess that is a good description. but it will rev to 6600 no problema
Old 09-02-2006, 09:55 PM
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with my 98 i didnt want to rev over 6500
with the stock heads what springs would you reccamend?

would you change any thing about this cam at all?

110 +2 be better or worse then a 111+3 or 109+1
Old 09-02-2006, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000TransAmWS6
okls1, i believe that they range from $100-150, i also need to get myself one.


i was just reading the cam sticky on the top of this forum (for the first time), its quite helpful... even tells you how to degree a cam...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=10
I bought a moroso 18" wheel from my local speed shop for $51 with tax. You have to remove the a/c and alternator to use it but bigger is better. BTW it fits, barely, between the crank and front swaybar. As far as your cam being off 4deg, I doubt its that much, possible yes but 4 deg is likely the extreme end. I'm installing a Comp 228/230 xe-r 110+1 tomorrow. I'd bet both our cores are the same. I'll post actual numbers dot to dot on a stock timing set. FWIW, I my present cam degreed @ 112 ICL and 114.5 LSA. It was sold to me as a 114LSA with no claim on ICL. The number stamped on the back of my new cam is 2870.
Old 09-03-2006, 12:15 AM
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Ok, I went ahead and got mine installed. Boy, I can I get a B.S.? With a stock GM timing set, this thing shows the same lift at 99deg and 119 deg which makes the centerline an EXACT 109! This is just how I ordered it from Comp. I'm shure they arent dead nuts every time but wow, I'm impressed! I'll verify this tomorrow and I'll check the LSA as well.
Old 09-03-2006, 01:49 AM
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so dot to dot she was on the money seems the cam grinder couldnt get it off unless he has to go take a crap and it gets cut wrong . Thats what we pay for perfection
Old 09-03-2006, 10:54 AM
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I guess that is a good description. but it will rev to 6600 no problema
Ya my cam was still makin more power at 6600 probably kept goin if I let it, but not with the stock block, don't wanna risk the ole dd that much. I am curious as to what numbers u put down Dave, what mods do you have?
Old 09-03-2006, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by okls1
I have that exact cam 228/232 110+2. I make 390rwhp and 367rwtq cam only with bolt ons (no pulley) and 4.10s. Gained 50rwhp and 15rwtq with cam. Probably have little more to it if I took rpms past 6600 limiter. I love it with my exhaust it lopes hard, and moves good I have sound clip somewhere I'll see if I can find it. Heres the graph. Red= bolt ons.

Edit: First startup with cam cam
your low torque might have something to do with your wacky fuel curve, get the fuel curve under control, around 13.1, and you might see the torque come up.
Old 09-03-2006, 02:16 PM
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what would the specs on this be with lsk lobes?
what springs should be used?
what length pushrod?
Old 09-03-2006, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bad6as
what would the specs on this be with lsk lobes?
227/231, .639/.643 110+2
what springs should be used?
Duals, like PRC, PP or shimmed 921's Comp
what length pushrod?
cam only stock heads/gasket, at least 7.425's and if base circle smaller that stock by .100 then 7.450 (I dunno base circle but should be close to XE-R)
Old 09-03-2006, 02:59 PM
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227/331 .639/.643

why did the duration drop 1 on each side? for the lsk lobes

and hows a DCR of 7.91 to 1 do on 93 oct? with the scr of 10.06

Last edited by bad6as; 09-03-2006 at 03:06 PM.
Old 09-03-2006, 03:06 PM
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Because those are the durations with those lobes. The actual grind might vary slightly.
Could be 227.xx/231.xx, you can only tell once grinded.
Old 09-03-2006, 03:07 PM
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what timing set would you go with?
Old 09-03-2006, 03:31 PM
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your low torque might have something to do with your wacky fuel curve, get the fuel curve under control, around 13.1, and you might see the torque come up
Well my tuner and the dyno operator said that the a/f machine was not very acurate, and read lean because of having to stick it in the exhaust... They said that the reading was not right.
Old 09-03-2006, 03:49 PM
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September 2006 Gm High Tech Magazine has a write up on degreeing a cam on LS1. How would I find exact TDC on #1 piston with out taking the head off ?

Qoute '' While the marks on the cam and crank sprockets indicate TDC ,we need to be dead on and can't rely on eyeing the vertical alignment of these marks--plus ,the trueness of these marks is one thing were trying to verify.'' Gm High Tech pg. 16
Old 09-03-2006, 04:16 PM
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Good info on this thread.
Old 09-03-2006, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cws T/A
September 2006 Gm High Tech Magazine has a write up on degreeing a cam on LS1. How would I find exact TDC on #1 piston with out taking the head off ?

Qoute '' While the marks on the cam and crank sprockets indicate TDC ,we need to be dead on and can't rely on eyeing the vertical alignment of these marks--plus ,the trueness of these marks is one thing were trying to verify.'' Gm High Tech pg. 16
Theres a tool that screws into the plug hole that has an inner threaded shaft that acts as a piston stop. I think just about any speed shop can get you one. I think the degree kit from Comp may have them? Anyway, wrench the motor around with the degree wheel installed till it hits the stop, gently, mark the degree wheel, turn backwards till it stops again and mark the wheel again. Back off the piston stop, turn the crank to the point exactly between the two noted points of stopping and then correct your pointer to read zero/TDC.
Old 09-03-2006, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SSmoky01
Good info on this thread.
yeah i agree this is a good thread and now im thinking about getting this cam
Old 09-04-2006, 07:58 AM
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You can find TDC with a dial on the rocker tip at the valve. Turning the crank, the rocker will sway up/down. The point at which it doesnt means the valve is closed and piston is at TDC (both valves closed). 0 your dial and that is your starting mark, then by turning you can take readings.
The trickiest part is setting up the degree wheel.
Using those tools you can measure PTV as well
Old 09-05-2006, 12:45 AM
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Just curious, what kind of heads would work well with this cam? Something like ported ls6 or what? Well best for the money, but I know nothing about matching heads to a cam. Good info on degreeing cam though thanks.
Old 09-05-2006, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by okls1
Just curious, what kind of heads would work well with this cam? Something like ported ls6 or what? Well best for the money, but I know nothing about matching heads to a cam. Good info on degreeing cam though thanks.
In my opinion, the ported LS6 heads arent the most ideal head for the range of power this cam is looking for. They would be better than stock heads of course, but the ported LS6 heads have rather large runners and arent that great for torque, Get some dart 205's


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