Crank Bolt HELP!!!!
Crank Bolt HELP!!!! I am installing my H/C Package. I am to the point where I am putting the Crank Pulley back on. I have an ARP Bolt, using it to put the pulley on and I got it almost all the way on, but not all the way. Now, with a 27in breaker bar, the bolt will not move either way. AT ALL. I have actually bent the breaker bar. Trying to back the bolt out and use the factory replacement bolt for the final. Any ideas??? Really NEED HELP.
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Originally Posted by LsReddog
No you need a balancer installer.
You likely buggered the threads. The ARP will likely break during any attempted removal so be prepared to drill and tap. Do a search, several have done this before. Sorry.
We have the ARP bolt in and we are still getting some turns on it. Its almost all the way on. We installed the AC belt to see how close we are and it is very close. It wont come OUT though. I was using it (ARP) to pull the pulley on. We actually only have a 2ft breaker bar. Do you think that we have damaged something?? I know that on the LS1howto post, he was using a 3ft extension on top of his 2ft breaker bar. WTF HELP!!
Originally Posted by vettenuts
You likely buggered the threads. The ARP will likely break during any attempted removal so be prepared to drill and tap. Do a search, several have done this before. Sorry.
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Alright, I'm the wife, helping with the H/C swap-- fun BTW, all wives should do this!!! Here's the deal, the pulley is ALMOST on, if not already. Should we keep cranking??- we're getting turns on the pulley-- or should we go ahead and continue with the heads, rockers, lifters, etc and have someone look at it afterwards?? If we put all that back on, will we have to pull it all back off to fix some **** if the crank is AFU??? I've heard of the drill and tap... never done it, but willing to. I'm not the average girl. HELP!!!! 
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Originally Posted by Beasst8
HOW do you drill and tap?? Does the Crankshaft have to come out for this??
If it appears it is on all the way I would just keep an eye on it so it doesent loosen up. You basically Loc Tited it permanently and if you keep trying to take it out you are going to be more screwed than you are now. I dont want to sound negative but I cant see an easy fix to this. I dont believe you could Heli-coil it.
The farther in you go, the more threads get messed up. Some have actually threaded the larger portion of the crank snout to use a larger bolt. At this point, its up to you whether you go in all the way or not but the threads that have engaged the ARP bolt are likely FUBAR.
Will it move backwards at all, even 1/8th turn? If so, you can try and work it out then in that a little further out, then in, etc. to see if you can back it out. If you can get it out, you can heli-coil the crank.
Will it move backwards at all, even 1/8th turn? If so, you can try and work it out then in that a little further out, then in, etc. to see if you can back it out. If you can get it out, you can heli-coil the crank.
Here's a link to someone else who had a problem with the ARP bolt. You might want to contact him and the one guy in the thread who also did it. For now, I would wait and look at your options.
Link
Link 2
Make sure you read it all, the second link is the guy that tapped the larger diameter at the end of the crank, contact him and see how he made out.
Note also that the torque on the ARP, if you get it out and use it still, is different than the stock bolt.
Link
Link 2
Make sure you read it all, the second link is the guy that tapped the larger diameter at the end of the crank, contact him and see how he made out.
Note also that the torque on the ARP, if you get it out and use it still, is different than the stock bolt.
Last edited by vettenuts; Sep 2, 2006 at 03:39 PM.
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Here's a link to someone else who had a problem with the ARP bolt. You might want to contact him and the one guy in the thread who also did it. For now, I would wait and look at your options.
Link
Link 2
Make sure you read it all, the second link is the guy that tapped the larger diameter at the end of the crank, contact him and see how he made out.
Note also that the torque on the ARP, if you get it out and use it still, is different than the stock bolt.
Link
Link 2
Make sure you read it all, the second link is the guy that tapped the larger diameter at the end of the crank, contact him and see how he made out.
Note also that the torque on the ARP, if you get it out and use it still, is different than the stock bolt.
I never even made it to the torque part. It seized up before then. My wife was putting the bolt in, then it got tight, so I jumped on. The first pull = the situation that Im in now. SEIZED. From ARP the torque was 193 lbft. I never made it that high.
Just tried to break the bolt. I cant even do that. Pretty pissed. Now that I have been messing with this for a while, the bolt isnt even bottomed out. The washer is still loose on the ARP bolt. Out of Ideas. I guess that I will have to wait till next week and call some shops. i am in a small town, so I might have to get the car towed as far as 50-60 miles. Bout to fork out some serious cash, that I dont have, to get this fixed. 
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From: Bergen County, NJ
There should be sticky in big letters....do not use a bolt to pull the balancer on!
A little late now but the time it takes to make a threaded rod with some nuts and washers is well worth it to avoid a situation like this.
Try working it back and forth to back it out, if that doen't work I'm afraid your in for some major repair work.
A little late now but the time it takes to make a threaded rod with some nuts and washers is well worth it to avoid a situation like this.
Try working it back and forth to back it out, if that doen't work I'm afraid your in for some major repair work.
The other option is to thread the end of the shaft with the larger ID. A couple of guys have done this. Once done, you will need to make a special puller to get the pulley the rest of the way on.
Does the bolt move at all or is it just stuck? If it doesn't move at all, you will have to break it to thread the larger ID. Talk to some shops, then make a decision on what to do.
Good luck, hope this works out for you.
Does the bolt move at all or is it just stuck? If it doesn't move at all, you will have to break it to thread the larger ID. Talk to some shops, then make a decision on what to do.
Good luck, hope this works out for you.
Okay, grab a good size breaker bar, and put the jack handle on the end to use as a cheater bar. Try to slowly back the bolt out. You could try heat and PB blaster / liquid wrench, but its likely a lost cause. The bolt will likely break soon. Once this happens youre gonna have to drill. When i helped my biddy with his broken crank bolt, we used a .410" cobalt drill, and machined out a shouldered collar to use as a guide. The OD has to be .700 and the ID was the same as the drill. The shoulder needs to be a little bigger than the 700 so the collar dosnt slide into the crank or itll be a pain in the *** to get out. You may have to find a machine shop to make this collar for you on a lathe, but its pretty easy. Once you drill through the bolt, you may need to get a helicoil kit for a M16-2 thread. Drill and tap with the helicoil kit and insert the new thread with loctite. Test fit the bolt to make sure the threads are deep enough and the bolt wont bottom out against the helicoil itself. After that, use the threaded rod install tool to install teh pulley and use a new bolt for final torque.
Well, we all make mistakes. I just wish that my first one with the car wasnt that big. Guess I misunderstood allot of people. I thought that a bunch of people used the bolt to thread it on. OOPS. hehe Thats a big F'in oops. As far as heat goes, can I pick up one of those had held torches or will that not be enough?? Im gonna try to get the pulley all the way on.Thanks
Just decided to let the pros handle this. Dont want to f anything up farther than I already have. I will try to find a machince shop this week and give them a call.