Would you Break in your new 408 soft or hard?
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Would you Break in your new 408 soft or hard?
Guys,
GM's installation guide says to start a brand new engine and let it idle for 10-20 minutes. After that, it says to drive it for approx 10 miles in the city and hwy...but not to go over 50 mph. Then drive normal and change oil after 500 miles.
Now I've seen/heard/read where new engine owners and dyno shop techs totally max out the engine rpms right away to "properly" seal the piston rings...
Interested to hear some of the opinions of all the experts on LS1Tech in regards to your experiences and results....
Stroker2112
GM's installation guide says to start a brand new engine and let it idle for 10-20 minutes. After that, it says to drive it for approx 10 miles in the city and hwy...but not to go over 50 mph. Then drive normal and change oil after 500 miles.
Now I've seen/heard/read where new engine owners and dyno shop techs totally max out the engine rpms right away to "properly" seal the piston rings...
Interested to hear some of the opinions of all the experts on LS1Tech in regards to your experiences and results....
Stroker2112
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i would think id depends on how long you want the engine to live, if you give 1000 or so miles to break in it will last longer, but if your ***** to the wall right out of the create, 1) your taking the chance on breaking somthing right away 2) your not giving things time to properly seat right. just my 2 cents
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Well Im Going To Do What Most People Have Done Who Race Their Engines
1st Let Idle And Hold Over 2k For 20 Min
2nd Turn Off Change Oil, Non-syntethic
3rd Drive Like Your Going To Drive It Always For 200-300 Miles Not Redlineing It And Change Oil To Full Syntethic And Dyno.
1st Let Idle And Hold Over 2k For 20 Min
2nd Turn Off Change Oil, Non-syntethic
3rd Drive Like Your Going To Drive It Always For 200-300 Miles Not Redlineing It And Change Oil To Full Syntethic And Dyno.
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you only need to adhere to some break in procedure if you have a flat tappet cam, (keeping it at 2k for minutes on end hardens up the lobes so you dont wipe one out) with a roller cam you are good to go. the only thing you really need to do is seat the rings.. ive heard that the rings on LSxs dont properly seat untill like 10-20k miles becuse of the material they are made out of. the traditional method of seating rings is to be on the highway and slow down to 30 or so, and rapidly accelerate to 60 and repeat.
when i start up my motor im going to let it sit and idle and make sure i have oil pressure and no odd noises and then wrap it out.. i wanna hear it
when i start up my motor im going to let it sit and idle and make sure i have oil pressure and no odd noises and then wrap it out.. i wanna hear it
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Everything you need to know about break in. Has proven photos of why to break it in hard.
Everything you need to know about break in. Has proven photos of why to break it in hard.
#9
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Everything you need to know about break in. Has proven photos of why to break it in hard.
Everything you need to know about break in. Has proven photos of why to break it in hard.
FWIW, most reputable shops that build, install and tune motors will start it up, check for leaks, then start tuning it on the dyno imediately.
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Originally Posted by speedyss
i would think id depends on how long you want the engine to live, if you give 1000 or so miles to break in it will last longer, but if your ***** to the wall right out of the create, 1) your taking the chance on breaking somthing right away 2) your not giving things time to properly seat right. just my 2 cents
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first thing most 2 stroke manufacturers do is fire up, take it right to 10k (or whatever the redline is) and keep it there for a few minutes to seat the rings. Great read, thanks for sharing!
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Everything you need to know about break in. Has proven photos of why to break it in hard.
Everything you need to know about break in. Has proven photos of why to break it in hard.
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Great!...It looks like most everyone is suggesting the "hard" breakin method, which is fine with me. My only concern is that I will be starting the engine for the first time without any sort of pcm or throttle tune.....how much trouble am I asking for if all fluids/pressures are solid and I decide to drive it/break it in before the dyno shop tune ? The wiring harness (sensors, switches, etc....) intake/TB, and accessories (starter, A/C, alt, Oil pump, etc...) are all from the original 5.3 motor...the new items are:
6.0L block (bored and stroked to 408)
LS6 Heads (CNC'd by Patriot)
Valvetrain upgrade (7.350 PRs, 875-16 lifters, roller rockers, Patriot dual springs)
Camshaft - TSP Torquer2
True dual exhaust
...in other words, if I fire it up tonight and everything is pressurized and it idles half-way decent....should I shut down and wait for the dyno tune?...or take it out and try to put on 10 'Hard' miles to seal the rings?...
I am greatly appreciating all of your experts opinions on this!
Stroker2112
6.0L block (bored and stroked to 408)
LS6 Heads (CNC'd by Patriot)
Valvetrain upgrade (7.350 PRs, 875-16 lifters, roller rockers, Patriot dual springs)
Camshaft - TSP Torquer2
True dual exhaust
...in other words, if I fire it up tonight and everything is pressurized and it idles half-way decent....should I shut down and wait for the dyno tune?...or take it out and try to put on 10 'Hard' miles to seal the rings?...
I am greatly appreciating all of your experts opinions on this!
Stroker2112
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So, absent of a baseline tune and assuming it will start....you would just let it idle briefly until no leaks are confirmed and then break it in "hard" at the dyno shop?
Stroker2112
Stroker2112
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Correct. Let it warm up for a bit then take it right to a tuner with a dyno. All the break in should be done there if a base map isnt set. They'll set a base tune then run the car and re-tune on that.
#20
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I've got 4000 miles on my motor and have had it running like a top since I first cranked it over.
1. Fill engine with required amount of cheap dino oil. Prime motor until you see oil pressure.
2. Start engine and let it come up to temp while checking for leaks of any kind.
2. Turn the car off and change the oil with more Dino oil and a cheap oil filter.
3. Beat the **** out of it. Use variable loads! Take it up to about 4-4.5k sometimes and don't shift...just let off the gas and let it come back down to around 3k. Drive it normal for a while. Just give the rings some pressure to use to properly seat. Don't ride around at like 1.5-2k either. Rings don't take long to seat AT ALL. I told all of my neighbors what I was doing and to keep off the streets. I broke it in going around my block. Damn that was fun.
4. Change the oil after 300 miles with more cheap dino oil and replace with a cheap filter.
5. @ 1000 miles, change to Mobil One Syn 5w-30 and a good filter (AC Delco is all I use)
She doesn't smoke and pulls like a raped ape. Put down over 530 to the wheels. Good luck!
**EDIT**
Sorry, I didn't see that you don't already have a base tune. If you are stepping up on your injector size...(hopefully) You will seriously need a base tune. I had PCM4Less send me a mail order tune. I beat the hell out of the car on that tune and then had Jeremy Formato tune it to a T.
1. Fill engine with required amount of cheap dino oil. Prime motor until you see oil pressure.
2. Start engine and let it come up to temp while checking for leaks of any kind.
2. Turn the car off and change the oil with more Dino oil and a cheap oil filter.
3. Beat the **** out of it. Use variable loads! Take it up to about 4-4.5k sometimes and don't shift...just let off the gas and let it come back down to around 3k. Drive it normal for a while. Just give the rings some pressure to use to properly seat. Don't ride around at like 1.5-2k either. Rings don't take long to seat AT ALL. I told all of my neighbors what I was doing and to keep off the streets. I broke it in going around my block. Damn that was fun.
4. Change the oil after 300 miles with more cheap dino oil and replace with a cheap filter.
5. @ 1000 miles, change to Mobil One Syn 5w-30 and a good filter (AC Delco is all I use)
She doesn't smoke and pulls like a raped ape. Put down over 530 to the wheels. Good luck!
**EDIT**
Sorry, I didn't see that you don't already have a base tune. If you are stepping up on your injector size...(hopefully) You will seriously need a base tune. I had PCM4Less send me a mail order tune. I beat the hell out of the car on that tune and then had Jeremy Formato tune it to a T.
Last edited by 02BlackBullet; 09-19-2006 at 08:46 AM.