Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Balancer install

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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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Default Balancer install

Can't quite get my balancer flush with the crank snout -- I know you're just supposed to go to 250ft/lb (or was it 240?) when initially seating it, but how many of you have ever gotten the balancer completely flush? It's only out by about 1/8 to 1/16 on mine...

I guess that's ok, right?
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 08:36 PM
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Youll know if you put your belt on and turn the crank manually. If its not lined up, the belt will come off. I thought mine was not on all the way....but several 6000+ rpm runs have proven otherwise.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 10:08 PM
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If you used the crank bolt to push the pulley home it will move slowly until it bucks up against the boss on the crank and then suddenly the torque required to turn the bolt will skyrocket. That's the subliminal message telling you the pulley has made it back to home plate.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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If you torqued to 240 with the old bolt, torqued the new bolt to 37 ft/lbs, and then turned it 90-140 degrees you're good to go. It won't be completely flush with the snout.
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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You really need to buy a service manual, it provides all the technical details and is well worth the money. To answer your question, there is a specific depth that the crank snout sits below the surface of the balancer. You also have to scribe the balancer prior to removal to ensure the weights within the balancer are correctly located. During installation, you are supposed to measure this before putting on the new bolt. So the quick answer is it will not sit flush. Here is a page out of the service manual.

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 05:49 AM
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how do you lock up the engine when its in the car? manual flywheel. car moves when in gear with brakes on. need to lock up the manual flywheel. how?
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:38 AM
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I've been using a chain wrench(plumbing supply or Sears) for years. Bought mine at Sears, but had to add some extra chain links to it because the LS series pulley is a large diameter and the chain wouldn't fit. You wrap the chain around the pulley and lock a link into the jaw. The end of the handle bucks up against the chassis or your concrete driveway. Now you can turn the bolt as you want without the pulley moving.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:44 AM
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find a spot on the flywheel where you can slide a pry-bar or long screw driver into it and brace it...
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 07:11 AM
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Bill Curlee over on the Corvette Forum gave me this info and it works great. This is a Ridgid Strap Wrench, they use it to turn pipe. Works great to hold the balancer to tighten the bolt.

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 07:30 AM
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I put the car in 5th gear and had no problem with the engine turning over. and on another note, i know the stock crank bolt is a torque yield bolt, that is why you got to 37ft/lbs then turn another 1/4 turn, but with the ARP crank bolt do you do the same thing? or do you just crank it to 250Ft/lbs? i kept getting mixed responses. I just did the arp bolt to 37 and the an extra 1/4 turn and been driving it for months with no problem......
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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From: Little Rhody
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Its not 1/4 turn, its 140 degrees. See above procedure.

ARP was 190 lb-ft with their lube, but they recently changed the torque value (with their new lube).
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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When you use the ARP lube, is it supposed to go both on the bolt threads and under the bolt head (above the washer)...?

I'm wondering if locktite is needed, if so would it be best on the bolt threads or under the bolt head/washer (instead of the lube of course)...?

Thanks, I'm just trying to decide my game plan.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by joecar
When you use the ARP lube, is it supposed to go both on the bolt threads and under the bolt head (above the washer)...?

I'm wondering if locktite is needed, if so would it be best on the bolt threads or under the bolt head/washer (instead of the lube of course)...?

Thanks, I'm just trying to decide my game plan.
no loctite!!!!!!!!!!!11
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 04:09 AM
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From: Little Rhody
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I would not use Loctite on that bolt. The ARP lube goes on all moving surfaces, i.e., threads, under bolt head and under washer. I would also call ARP to get their latest torque value for the bolt, it has changed at least once and when I bought mine there was nothing in the package that provided the torque value. Depending on the balancer you are installing, I like to use the ATI pin kit for a little added insurance.
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