changing bearings in car..
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TECH Resident
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From: Merrillville,In (chicago)
changing bearings in car.. anyone have any info for me on how i can pull the oil pan and change my rod bolts and rod bearing with the engine in the car?
Please let me know, thanks
Louie
Please let me know, thanks
Louie
I would not recomend changing the bearings with the motor in the car. The block needs to come out and a couple of parts need to be measured to make sure theyre not out of round and what not.
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From: Merrillville,In (chicago)
but is it possible to at least check and see what is bad down there?
is it even possible to get the pan out with the engine in the car?
that is mainly what i am askin i guess...if i see that the crank is scored etc i completely realize that i will have to pull it out and make sure that all is well..
Thanks
Louie
is it even possible to get the pan out with the engine in the car?
that is mainly what i am askin i guess...if i see that the crank is scored etc i completely realize that i will have to pull it out and make sure that all is well..
Thanks
Louie
Thread Starter
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From: Merrillville,In (chicago)
no info on seeing the bearings or pulling the pan with the engine still in car?
dont you guys change the rod bolts with the engine still in the car?
Let me know
thanks
Louie
dont you guys change the rod bolts with the engine still in the car?
Let me know
thanks
Louie
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
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Someone must have done this before???
Anyone???
I saw two posts but they were on a LT-1. Does anyone have specific instructions? How many bolts on the K-Member? How many engine mount bolts? Etc...
I am asking b/c I have a 98' Trans Am and I want to remove the pan this weekend...
Thanks
Anyone???
I saw two posts but they were on a LT-1. Does anyone have specific instructions? How many bolts on the K-Member? How many engine mount bolts? Etc...
I am asking b/c I have a 98' Trans Am and I want to remove the pan this weekend...
Thanks
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There's no easy way to remove the pan on the car. The engine has to be lifted off the k-member and even then it's a bitch to get off and get at the bottom end. It's much easier to just drop the entire k-member/engine and do it the right way.
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+1. You'll have hell otherwise.
I did my rod bolts with the engine in. You have to drop the K and jack up the engine to get the pan to slid out the back. When you're in there, just do the bolts one at a time. I haven't had a problem.
I have removed my oil pan a few times while it was in the car. All you need to do in unbolt the motor mounts 2 bolts, and sway bar 2 bolts ,then unbolt the K-member (3 bolts on each side) pretty easy to do. The k-member will drop about 3"to 6" ,but will not fall out. remove the steering arm from the rack unit. 2 bolts for it. unbolt the exhaust pipes from the manifolds,3 bolts on each side. support the engine from the top or bottom witch is easiest for you. This will give you enough room to drop the pan and pass by the flywheel and rotate the engine were the front counter weight is at the top so when you pull the pan i wont hang between the K-member and counter weight.
Teching In
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How do you recommend supporting the motor with a jack? The pan had to slide toward the back of the car when removing it right? So you couldn't put the jack on the transmission right?
Do you need to support the K Frame while unbolting it?
Do you need to support the K Frame while unbolting it?
Wow, this is an old thread...I didn't notice before, oh well.
I've had my pan out twice. It's much easier if you use a hoist to get the engine up. When lowering the K, I didn't support it. I really didn't see the need to. The front bolts on each side of the K I only backed out a few turns, so it wasn't going anywhere.
I've had my pan out twice. It's much easier if you use a hoist to get the engine up. When lowering the K, I didn't support it. I really didn't see the need to. The front bolts on each side of the K I only backed out a few turns, so it wasn't going anywhere.
I dunno ,but last year I had my rod bolts done with Katechs..My buddy who owns a shop said he could swap out the bearings with clevites too..
He did with the engine still in the car.I've had no problems either..I even swapped out my tr224 for much larger cam and many dyno/wot pulls..
I dont know how long it took,but he said it was a P.I.T.A ,but he did for me for next to nothing as a favor..Normally he would tell customers they are just better off rebuilding instead of going through all that..I was on a 1 wk vacation when he did it so I dont know how long it took
The clevites were the P series I believe which are stock replacements..I'll double check I still have the old boxes they came in with my old bearings in them
He did with the engine still in the car.I've had no problems either..I even swapped out my tr224 for much larger cam and many dyno/wot pulls..
I dont know how long it took,but he said it was a P.I.T.A ,but he did for me for next to nothing as a favor..Normally he would tell customers they are just better off rebuilding instead of going through all that..I was on a 1 wk vacation when he did it so I dont know how long it took
The clevites were the P series I believe which are stock replacements..I'll double check I still have the old boxes they came in with my old bearings in them