Cheaper route? Forged 346 or 402?
#21
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becuase aluminum motors are much more expensive, for only 100 lb weight savings. with that stall i highly doubt that you are going to be road racing the car.. so you shouldnt care about the extra 100lbs up front.. just trying to give you another alternative man, trying to save you some cash, but as you know in the end its your decision and your money
#22
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It all adds up in the end. Its not a weight savings, since I am already aluminum, but rather avoiding my car from becoming bloated from modding. 50 lbs here, 15 there, 10 there, etc, in the end you end up with a better setup. The way I see it, why add 100 lbs to my front end if I don't have to? Just doesn't make much sense to me. For any kind of racing, be it drag or autocross you want weight off the front.
Last edited by BlackHawk T/A; 10-27-2006 at 05:16 AM.
#23
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Also, take into consideration that with a 347 you can reuse heads/cam, while with a 402/408 stage 3s are in order as well as a bigger cam.
From my experience a fully built 347 and 6.0 are in the same price range
383/402/408 are about 3000 $ more
From my experience a fully built 347 and 6.0 are in the same price range
383/402/408 are about 3000 $ more
#24
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Look I didnt want the weight either but I understand the benefit and the ways to reduce that gain to a few donuts and beer for the driver.
Your being totally one side about it. It does have its benefit. Aluminum distorts under big boost conditions so iron is the preference. Then you look at power to weight ration. The amount of boost that iron block will withstand contantly is more than the aluminum. So if your gonna do the big T then the 100 lbs isnt a blink of the eye to you and wont hurt you at the track compared to the gain. There are ways to reduce the weight to I think less than 30 lbs when all was said and done. K member, upper and lower arms, battery relocation. What am I leaving out?
Anyway point is you need to see the whole picture. Let me re-iterate. I stayed aluminum, but I see the benefits of iron.
Your being totally one side about it. It does have its benefit. Aluminum distorts under big boost conditions so iron is the preference. Then you look at power to weight ration. The amount of boost that iron block will withstand contantly is more than the aluminum. So if your gonna do the big T then the 100 lbs isnt a blink of the eye to you and wont hurt you at the track compared to the gain. There are ways to reduce the weight to I think less than 30 lbs when all was said and done. K member, upper and lower arms, battery relocation. What am I leaving out?
Anyway point is you need to see the whole picture. Let me re-iterate. I stayed aluminum, but I see the benefits of iron.
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I will do iron if I have to, but if I don't, I won't. That remains to be seen. I just wanted to make the point that I have never seen anyone report an aluminum block related failure on here, but a lot of people badmouth it as if it weren't capable.
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Originally Posted by Cop Car
with that stall i highly doubt that you are going to be road racing the car.. so you shouldnt care about the extra 100lbs up front..
Practically every racer I've seen/talked to, whether road or drag, would like to take unnecessary weight off.
#27
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
I will do iron if I have to, but if I don't, I won't. That remains to be seen. I just wanted to make the point that I have never seen anyone report an aluminum block related failure on here, but a lot of people badmouth it as if it weren't capable.
#30
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
I want to see your track times with the 370. you have the motor broken in, now go get some 10's!
Should be in the 10's but tranny slipping 2>3 and that is with a VIG 3200 (1.5>1.6 60s)
My next move is another level 5 tranny and a SS4000E Yank or VIG3800
The power is there just need to secure it on the ground.
#31
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Got 11.02@ 126.8mph (NA)
Should be in the 10's but tranny slipping 2>3 and that is with a VIG 3200 (1.5>1.6 60s)
My next move is another level 5 tranny and a SS4000E Yank or VIG3800
The power is there just need to secure it on the ground.
Should be in the 10's but tranny slipping 2>3 and that is with a VIG 3200 (1.5>1.6 60s)
My next move is another level 5 tranny and a SS4000E Yank or VIG3800
The power is there just need to secure it on the ground.