Converter is in but....
#1
Converter is in but....
Got the Yank SS4000 installed last night and everything put back together. The converter is very loose but pulls like a mother. Yank recommends you drive for 150 miles to break the converter in with no stalling it up or flashing it. I figured a drive to MSU and back to get the g/f would be fine as its about 200 round trip. Well on the way home I get to about 165 or so miles and decide to see what I just spent two days working on feels like, slam the throttle down and am immediatly thrown back in my seat to the sweet sound of the rpms flying then all of the sudden.........I hit the rev limiter twice or so and it never shifted so I let off.
Now usually this wouldn't be too bad seeing as the car has a built valvetrain and autos are usually not too bad on pegging out. WRONG the car is hurt bad. I luckly got it home but the rest of the way back it ticked like a mother and just about died everytime I came to a stop. When does it ever end!!!! I'm soo pissed right now, any uggestions on where to look or anyone know what it may be? I'm thinking a lifter.
Now usually this wouldn't be too bad seeing as the car has a built valvetrain and autos are usually not too bad on pegging out. WRONG the car is hurt bad. I luckly got it home but the rest of the way back it ticked like a mother and just about died everytime I came to a stop. When does it ever end!!!! I'm soo pissed right now, any uggestions on where to look or anyone know what it may be? I'm thinking a lifter.
#3
I have chromoly pushrods that were pretty expensive so I hope it wasn't those. The shift points my tuner said may be a bit off so I'm not too worried about that, more concerned about the motor. If it was a lifter are there any out there that are stronger and better than the comps?
#4
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well me pesonally, if i was in your shoes and my motor was ticking after a wot and bouncing rev limiter i would hope it was bent pushrods rather than a lifter even if the the pushrods were 500.00 a set
just alot less work associated with replacing a bent pushrod rather than a lifter
just alot less work associated with replacing a bent pushrod rather than a lifter
#5
TECH Senior Member
My guess is the tranny couldn't handle the extra trq multiplication of the stall and it slipped (hitting limiter).
In general hitting the limiter doesn't affect the motor (Lord knows I've done that a few times). Limiter just shuts fuel off, reduces timing.
However what is your limiter set at? Stock lifters?
If your tune is not right, fuel is reduced and timing still at max could cause detonation bad.
1- Check all your plugs
2- remove V-covers and check valvetrain.
If nothing visible with that, then probable lifter collapse.
In general hitting the limiter doesn't affect the motor (Lord knows I've done that a few times). Limiter just shuts fuel off, reduces timing.
However what is your limiter set at? Stock lifters?
If your tune is not right, fuel is reduced and timing still at max could cause detonation bad.
1- Check all your plugs
2- remove V-covers and check valvetrain.
If nothing visible with that, then probable lifter collapse.
#6
True statement on the pushrods as I just checked the price of Morel lifters. I currently have my limiter set at 6700 and shift points at 6500 and am using comp lifters. I'm gonna have to pull a valvecover and hope its a pushrod then. I'll keep you guys updated.
#7
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
1- Check all your plugs
2- remove V-covers and check valvetrain.
If nothing visible with that, then probable lifter collapse.
2- remove V-covers and check valvetrain.
If nothing visible with that, then probable lifter collapse.
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#12
Thanks guys I'm gonna get the new springs in and take the car to my tuner and see if he can makes things right, I just wanna see how much a difference this converter makes . There was also a small spot of oil underneath the car which had my worried until I noticed the damn pcv tube came off the valve cover.