Long Beach

iTrader: (51)

Thanks, are you going heads and cam? If so what kind of heads and cam are you putting in? Its not too bad just time consuming. The hardest part i thought was puting the heads and manifold back on, the cam was easy. Just take your time and ls1howto.com has perfect directions. Only thing that they did not warn about is be carefull taking manifold off because my wires were behind the oil pressure sensor in the back and mine broke. Also when it comes time to take heads out do your self a favor and use a shop vac and suck the leftover coolant from the waterpump holes before taking heads off. Finally when cleaning the head bolt holes get your self a few straws from fast food place and take the papertowel and thread it in the straw first then leave a little remaining at the end and stick that in the bolt hole to clean out any left over goobers. If you give me your email address i can take a picture and send it to you what im talking about. Good luck

01Z28M6

I don't mean to contradict you about the instructions not warning regarding the intake manifold. I remember the process outline was to lift it free and move it a few inches forward in order to release whatever was connected in the back. If I recall, there were even pictures.

Here's what I mean:

Long Beach

iTrader: (51)

I did do that but i guess i lifted and moved to far forward and broke the sensor. That thing was so easy to break, i was being carefull not to rip any wires out and it still broke. Now i have to put the new one in with the manifold on. I have a feeling it is going to be a bitch. Any tips?

01Z28M6

Hi. I'm looking at the picture and magnifying the oil sensor but can't get enough resolution to define it. It looks like it might be similar to the LT1 sensor but I can't be sure. If it is, there may be a special tool (socket) for it. In which case it looks like you will have to be very patient with a ratchet and swivel extension and perhaps a mirror as it appears you'll be working by feel. Otherwise it looks like you'll have to pull the intake again. If the sensor is what I think it is you will use very little torque when installing the new one and don't use teflon tape to seal the threads, use a sealing paste. This advice comes from working on the LT1 sensor on my 95 and may not apply at all.

If I were in your shoes I would check with an autoparts store for the sensor and determine if you need a tool. You might get lucky and find a car guy behind the counter with real life experience to ask. All guesses on my side but thanks for warning us about the situation as I am about to start wrenching. Please tell us how you make out. Very helpful thread....

Long Beach

iTrader: (51)

Thanks, im going to install the new sensor this weekend and its a pain to get to. Like you were saying that you have to do it by feel because you cant see it. I already purchased the socket for it it was a powerbuilt 1 1/16 x something from kragen. (there were two different ones it is the longest one) Hopefully everything will go in without taking manifold back off. Now im trying to locate an exhaust leak that i noticed last night. I think im going to check the exhaust gaskets to make sure one did not back out, then check air connections. Thanks again for the advice.

SSmokin99

iTrader: (7)

Did you take off your fenders and front bumper for the install?

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Good job LB!
Im in the middle of cam/intake (no $ for heads now) and I just got the radiator out on my own, with a brilliant rope and pulley system rigged to the top of the garage.

Heres' the tool I used to hold up the bolts.. you can steal these from your offices supply cabinet..

And heres'the intake in..

I got a long way to go, but im pumped..

Long Beach

iTrader: (51)

No you dont need to take any of that stuff off. Honestly the cam was easy to do. Only thing is take your time when stabing it in the block because you dont want it to bang or scrape up against the bearings. Thanks dirtyjohn, what size cam are you putting in? Just take your time its not hard just time consuming. I was able to get the radiator out the bottom. I seperated the fan assembly and dropped it down, then did the same with the radiator. Dont worry you can always put heads in later they were not that hard either. Good luck on the install, keep me posted

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Word.
Out the bottom? thats outside the box yo.
Comp 224/228 .581/.588 112+4
I'm working towards something similar to the Tony Mamo AFR recipie combo.
I've got cam and intake for it, just not the AFR 205's.
Looking at how easy the heads would be to get off with all that stuff taken out, i was strongly considering flexing the credit card.
But I would like a vacation this winter.
I'll be ready to pull the valvecovers and start on the pulley this weekend.
I only get to work on it piecemeal cause I keep getting pulled away from it.
....yeah this stuff is fun, I could work on that all night with no food if I didn't have to work the next day.

01Z28M6

I don't know if this will be any help but here's what I used with my LT1. The sensor might be the same thing after you mentioned the size of the socket. The socket was 1/2" drive so I had to use some of my impact tools. Not for impact though....

Once again, use a very light touch. Note the size of the pipe threads on the sensor and what it will be screwing into.

Long Beach

iTrader: (51)

The heads are not bad, but you will have to take intake of again and im not sure about the waterpump. You will not have to mess with the pulley again thats for sure. They are not too hard just time consuming and most of the time will be spent cleaning block and bolt holes. I would recomend arp bolts or studs. I used the bolts and it made torquing the heads down easy compared to the stock bolts. I got the sensor yesterday and tried to put it in and i cant get back there to change it. Looks like im going to have to pull the manifold off again just to change the sensor. Unless someone has a trick or something on how to do it with it on. I have the socket for it and mine is 3/8 drive so i can use normal stubby ratchet.

Long Beach

iTrader: (51)

Sorry i forgot to say that that cam is going to sound good. I see that you have an automatic, do you plan on getting a tune right away?

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

I gots HPTuners, so ima throw a guesstimate tune on it before first start up.
Bump up the VE a percentage to be safe, modify the IFR for the FAST, and then work it out from there.
With dumped duals, its gonna be loud and im not gonna like it, but ill fix that next season.
I should hopefully make some real progress tomorrow, if I get a free couple hours.

Long Beach

iTrader: (51)

Sounds good. Good luck to you

SpdFrk1990

iTrader: (6)

Did you get a ported oil pump also? Some good info in this thread. Whats the best thing to use also to clean the deck off on the block? I have some gasket removing disc but ide be afraid to make the surface uneven.

Long Beach

iTrader: (51)

Thanks, and no i used stock pump and chain. But now that im done im going to go back in and put the ls2 chain and tsp pump. The stock are fine but it makes me a little parianoid about stretching the chain and breaking something. I used a wire bristle brush to clean the deck. Some people will tell you that this is bad but i did and dont have any leaks or anything. I used a medium strength bristle and it did not mark up the deck or anything. Or use a ice scraper like you would use on your windshild. I would not use the disc though for the reason that you stated. Good luck to you

SpdFrk1990

iTrader: (6)

Yeh I bet a scotch bright pad and some cleaner would work for the deck. The install doesnt look too bad how was the valve adjustment?