H/C install underway.
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H/C install underway.
Well i started taking everything apart tonight. I only worked for an hour and half and this is my first time. I got the tb, water pump, lower air box, lid, coil packs, y pipe, antifreeze drained, metal air tubes removed. I started taking the bolts out of the powersteering and man that last bolt is a bitch. It looks like it will not come out all the way because of the powersteering resavore. It started to get late so i called it quits for the night. Tomorrow i will take headers off, powersteering, radiator removed (would have done it tonight but im working by my self) Anyone have any advice on how to get the radiator out without ******* it up? And hope to have the heads off tomorrow as well. So what do you guys think, not bad for start?
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Thanks, any advice or tips on how to get the dam radiator out? I tried today and its a pain in the *** by my self. I have to wait until i can find someone to help me. I think with someone else to hold the other side it will come out. I hope to have the intake, radiator, and heads out by tonight. Wish me luck
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http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
Go to H/C swap instructions. That's just in case you haven't seen that write-up.
Radiator is a bit tricky. A second pair of hands would be nice...
Go to H/C swap instructions. That's just in case you haven't seen that write-up.
Radiator is a bit tricky. A second pair of hands would be nice...
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Originally Posted by AdamSS
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
Radiator is a bit tricky. A second pair of hands would be nice...
Radiator is a bit tricky. A second pair of hands would be nice...
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Originally Posted by Mssingkid
It's a PITA with an extra set of hands, couldn't imagine doing it alone.. same goes for putting it back in... If you've got questions, this is the place for it...
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if your not disconectting the condensor and just droping it down to get the cam out, drop it down right before you take the cam out and put it back up right after the cam is in, put it back even before you put the cam retainer plate on, the reason is you dont want to the top condensor line hanging there too long b/c it is solid mounted to the condensor, if your not really carful with it you can mess up that seal and you will have to get a new line and recharge your system. Just make sure when you drop it down you bend the length of the line and not at the point where it goes into the condensor, but im not sayin bend the line eather, just perswade it so you can get the condesor to drop down enough.
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UPDATE: Thanks guys for all your advice and encouragement. I atempted the radiator again and i think im going to take speedyss's advice and just do i when i take cam out. I got the power steering off and zip tied out of the way. I got the intake off. (that was a bitch trying to hold the back two bolts up while trying to disconnect all kinds of **** from the back) I got the valve covers, rockers, and pushrods taken out. Unfortunatly i have to take the drivers side header out because it dosent look like i have enough room to get the the lower head bolts. But tomorrow im going to take heads off, clean block, pistons, head bolt holes, and transfer parts from old heads to new ones (rear coolant block offs, etc...) I have another member here coming to help with the cam install and put heads back on so i will update agian tomorrow when i get done. Thanks again for everyones help.
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Originally Posted by Jon F
I was able to get the radiator out and back in by myself. It's a pain, but it can be done.
It definately sucks, buts its doable. If you have a few extra pair of hands available take 'em.
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Originally Posted by ShevrolayZ28
Before you remove the heads, suck the remaining coolant from the motor using a shop vac.
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Originally Posted by DVSWS6
+1 I didn't have a drop of coolant in the bolt holes when I did this.
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take the fans off the radiator first. it makes it a lot easier for me. I have pulled my radiator by myself, not easy, but it's possible. it makes it a lot easyier to pull the heads w/o the radiator in because you can just stand inside the chassis and not kill your back.
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Well i pulled both heads off and transfered all the plugs, coolant plugs, etc... I found a cracked spark plug so i will get another in the morning. Also does someone know a trick on how in the hell to get all the coolant out of the bolt holes? I tried threading paper towels in there and came out clean so i used the modified bolt for chasing the threads and started threading it in and felt like i hit the bottom of the bolt hole and took it out and there was coolant and grime all over it. (glad i did not wrench down on it, or it might have cracked the dam bolt hole) I used q tips on the shallow holes and that worked great but what about the deep bolt holes? The q tip is only half the length i need. The whole paper towel thing sucks and dosent work. Besides that i cleaned the gasket surface and tried to clean the pistons the best i could. So tomorrow i will atempt to clean the bolt holes again. PLEASE SOMEONE MUST KNOW A BETTER WAY TO CLEAN THOSE DAM BOLT HOLES? Thanks
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I did i went through a can already just on 4 bolt holes. There apears to be small amounts of coolant and oil and grime in there. I hope i did not crack the block or anything by threading the chaser in there.
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If you ground down the sides of the original bolts to use as a chaser you should be fine. If I had ended up with coolant in the holes I was going to go to Lowes/Home Depot and get some small OD tubing that would fit down the holes and duct tape it to the end of my shop vac hose. Run it down the holes, suck as much **** out, then chase with the bolt, and repeat as many times as needed untill there wasn't anymore gunk coming out. Good luck and remember, don't rush it, double check everystep and you should come out alright.