QUASAR

iTrader: (6)

What i am asking is, what kind of computer would you use for the engine management. Would you have to use the 5.7LS1 PCM, or the one that came from the truck? Are the heads on the truck motor the same/almost the same as on the aluminum block? Are they any good for "our" applications?

Basically i want to know what the concept is behind using a truck block. I know it wieghs more, has more ci because of the bore, and is stronger, but what would you need to do it (as far as heads/cam/PCM/&installation).

I know this idea has been out lately and i wanted to know more about it. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I have a truck block in my 98 Formula from ARE.

Dropped right in. Uses the same motor mounts and sensors and everything. Exterior is dimensionally the same.

Why use a truck block, two reasons.

1) Can bore them out without using sleeves, might be a bit cheaper. Can go .040 or more. Mine is .060 over. Not all blocks can go that much due to core shift.

2) Durability. Iron blocks can take more detonation. I'm gonna spray the car hard next year, I wanted the motor to last.

Trace

John, you will have to drill and tap one hole for the alternator mount for the f-body.Other than that it will be no prob swapping in the iron block.

Trace

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

For the short bolt?

I recently installed a 5.3 alternator and didn't reuse the small bolt.

QUASAR

iTrader: (6)

Is there any difference between an aftermarket head for the aluminum and iron? Or are they compatible? Is everything compatible? So just the block itself, (it being cast iron) is the only difference? What about the truck heads & valve train? All the rotating assembly is the same?

I think i am a little confused with something, are you guys just using the "block" and nothing but the block (and stuffing your own hi-po stuff in it), or are you using everything in it too(truck rotating assembly, heads, ect)?

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

As Trace said, it is an easy bolt in. You just have to drill and tap another hole for the alternator.

The 6.0l aluminum heads and the 6.0l iron heads are totally different castings. The 6.0l alum heads have 2.00/1.55 valves and porting identical to the LS6 heads. Only difference between the LS6 and 6.0l head is the combustion chamber size.

Most people dropping in a 6.0l block bore do a 30 thousandths (for those running power adders) or a 60 thousandths (n/a) overbore and purchase aftermarket pistons/rods. You can re-use the stock crank.

This is a good route for extra CIs as the 6.0 block is a 4.00 inch bore to start with and you don't have to pay the $$$ to resleeve your stock LS1 block. Only major disadvantage is addding ~75lbs to the front of the car.

Jason

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I would only recommend doing the LQ4 if your going to do a power adder or add the stroker crank for big cubes. I dont see the gains being worth the $$$ and the weight. Although the weight is not bad at all. I barely noticed any difference in driving/handling of the car. I just relocated the batt in the back and pulled ALL the emmisions stuff. I really have to weigh it but I estimate around 3390 or so. Lighter than when I picked it up thats for sure.

And yeah they just drop in. No big deal. Everything bolts up nicely.
Al