Dont Buy Into It!!!
Originally Posted by TOS98SS
My other grip is IT IS OIL YOU CHANGE IT EVERY 3K MILES OR LESS who cares what you put in . All the tests you are talkin about the oil in your car will be changed out before it ever sees those conditions IMO. I respect your opinion this is mine
I change mine at 5K .. I've had it annalized and it was still good..I could go longer but there is no need to take it to the edge of reliability..
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Originally Posted by Asmodeus
Pretty stupid of you to come on here and make the blanket statement that no one should use a 40 weight oil in their car because it will break. Mobil 1 5w30 is more like a 5w20 it's so thin. After seeing oil analysis of M1 5w30, it will never touch my car again. I'm currently running GC 0w30 (which is closer to a 40) and am considering trying Amsoil 5w40. Those, according to oil analysis tests, are the top 2 oils for an LS1.
I'm glad you have determined what is best for all LS1 motors, and what oils are crap and what isn't. So, how was your math100 class?
I'm glad you have determined what is best for all LS1 motors, and what oils are crap and what isn't. So, how was your math100 class?
Math 124 was a breeze. I normally catch a few Z's being as its a 100 level class.
WTF 5-30 is thin as a 20weight? 5-30 shears down. It does it pretty bad, 9-10CST is normal. I went with 10-30 which is probably the most stable oil in the M1 lineup. FYI a 40 weight oil is 13-14.5 CST and GC is 12.1 CST according to Castrol. I would say that GC is a HEAVY 30 weight, not a light 40.
Some people like Honda, some like GM. We all ahve the same size brain(roughly), the same physiological designe (roughly). Why do some of us get pissed when we have to drive a 4-banger? I dunno, same with LS1's. If you do some research a LOT of people HATE 0-30GC b/c it INCREASED their noise and consumption...a lot love it because it DECREASED it. Are they lying to spite others? I really doubt it. Some cars just like certain stuff, and mine does not like 10-40. I am just saying dont say "because ... did it, I SHOULD TOO!!!" You might should!...then again you might not...
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Originally Posted by TOS98SS
I would be shocked if it goes away .Hope it goes away for this guys sake . It has to be something he isn't telling us or a huge coeincdence
WTF!? How hard is it to understand me. "I shut the car down and it was being LS1 quiet. I changed the oil, primed the filter, put 6 qts in per Patman's recommendation (same amnt as before) and when it cranked up it tapped kinda bad after the oil circulated about 30 seconds (washing the other oil off the parts I guess). I thought it may be piston slap so I babied it back to my appt. It was pretty nasty, lotsa tapping when revved, sounds like my old 5.0 with a 224/224 .542 lift cam in it now. NO REVVING OF ANY SORT! was done. What could POSSIBLY have changed. Same brand of oil, same part number oil filter, car didnt move 5 feet before it began. I will have 10-30 M1 synthetic as per GM spec in the car in the next hour and will post up the results. If the sound stays then I will be mystified and ROALLY PISSED that an oil change did this.
I guess I should go drain the 15/50 Mobile out of my car and throw away all the cases I have of it. 
Do some research on bobstheoilguy.com. , thats where Patman used to be alot. He's done alot of oil studies.
Just for you you know, typically a heavier oil will give you less noise, it can even cover up noises. Back in the old days poeple would put hay and thick oils in cars that made noises so they could sell it. You also will have higher pressure with a thicker oil. I dont know where some people get there info!
If your car is making the same noise in the top end and you put in a thicker oil the noise will lesson. Not get worse. I dont think anyone even carries an oil to thick to put in any car, like the common parts stores. Besides for big trucks. Most people are dumb in the real world and just throw in a quart of anything when they are low or change it. Look how many people swear by Fram filters and they a junk.
Im not trying to bash. You should think about or research you info, especially when your making a huge mess over something that probably has a 99% chance of being the actuall oil. Even if you say you put thinner oil in it and the noise went away, I would say it's in your head. 
Do some research on bobstheoilguy.com. , thats where Patman used to be alot. He's done alot of oil studies. Just for you you know, typically a heavier oil will give you less noise, it can even cover up noises. Back in the old days poeple would put hay and thick oils in cars that made noises so they could sell it. You also will have higher pressure with a thicker oil. I dont know where some people get there info!
If your car is making the same noise in the top end and you put in a thicker oil the noise will lesson. Not get worse. I dont think anyone even carries an oil to thick to put in any car, like the common parts stores. Besides for big trucks. Most people are dumb in the real world and just throw in a quart of anything when they are low or change it. Look how many people swear by Fram filters and they a junk.
Im not trying to bash. You should think about or research you info, especially when your making a huge mess over something that probably has a 99% chance of being the actuall oil.
Even if you say you put thinner oil in it and the noise went away, I would say it's in your head.
Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
WTF!? How hard is it to understand me. "I shut the car down and it was being LS1 quiet. I changed the oil, primed the filter, put 6 qts in per Patman's recommendation (same amnt as before) and when it cranked up it tapped kinda bad after the oil circulated about 30 seconds (washing the other oil off the parts I guess). I thought it may be piston slap so I babied it back to my appt. It was pretty nasty, lotsa tapping when revved, sounds like my old 5.0 with a 224/224 .542 lift cam in it now. NO REVVING OF ANY SORT! was done. What could POSSIBLY have changed. Same brand of oil, same part number oil filter, car didnt move 5 feet before it began. I will have 10-30 M1 synthetic as per GM spec in the car in the next hour and will post up the results. If the sound stays then I will be mystified and ROALLY PISSED that an oil change did this.
You never know . how did it come out
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Sucks 
Still noisy. I guess its a massive freaking coincidence. I missed the 3-4 shift a while back and it was church mouse quiet until this oil change. Oh well I just hope this thing isnt toast. Pulling the valve covers tomorrow. Why are these motors so damned delicate
Still noisy. I guess its a massive freaking coincidence. I missed the 3-4 shift a while back and it was church mouse quiet until this oil change. Oh well I just hope this thing isnt toast. Pulling the valve covers tomorrow. Why are these motors so damned delicate LS1 Tech Stories
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I use Syntec 10-30. I use two quarts of 20-50 FIRST or something a bit thicker to quiet down the piston slap. THen top it off w/ 10-30. No slapping/knocking/pinging here.
Good luck, tho. I also used Lucas oil ONCE and I'll never use it again. I had similar results as yours. Knockin, rappin.. loud... no more.
Good luck, tho. I also used Lucas oil ONCE and I'll never use it again. I had similar results as yours. Knockin, rappin.. loud... no more.
Did you change the filter? Did you cut it open and inspect it? If you didnt have good pressure I would think maybe something in the filter is fucked(collapsed, clogged), either way it wouldnt hurt anything to cut it open and check it.
Originally Posted by WhiteRhino
I guess I should go drain the 15/50 Mobile out of my car and throw away all the cases I have of it. Do some research on bobstheoilguy.com. , thats where Patman used to be alot. He's done alot of oil studies.
Do some research on bobstheoilguy.com. , thats where Patman used to be alot. He's done alot of oil studies.
Ha ha, yea I had kinda the same thing happen to me. I changed from always 5W-30 M1 to 10-30 Royal purple and noticed some tapping. But, car was warm when shut off and hood was on. After oil change engine cool, and hood off. Ended up being spun rod bearing due to 12 hours of hard non-stop driving w/ 4:30's and a 4K converter, and passing everyone I could. So, sometimes it's just in your mind to blame something simple (or hope it's something simple). BTW, car is still wainting to be put together. Good luck with your car.
Chris
Good luck with your car.Chris
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From: St. Clair Shores Mi.
Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
remove coil-packs, remove valve covers, remove rocker arms, pull out pushrods, roll on glass, replace as needed, re-assemble the same as dissassemble, tq'ing the rocker arms to 22#? Yes?
I read this whole post and new what it was from the start.
When you missed that shift you bent some pushrods. The Hydraulic lifters covered it up initially, but when all the oil was changed thats all it took for it to show itself.
Don't worry it's a pretty easy job.
if Fram suregrip oil filters are junk * thats what i run* then what is the better oil filter? and i run M1 10w 30 in my bird..is there something better? i used to run royal purple 10W30 but now not so sure..can anybody help here? on my 2nd motor and cant afford a 3rd right now...
Originally Posted by BLKWS.6
WTF!? How hard is it to understand me. "I shut the car down and it was being LS1 quiet. I changed the oil, primed the filter, put 6 qts in per Patman's recommendation (same amnt as before) and when it cranked up it tapped kinda bad after the oil circulated about 30 seconds (washing the other oil off the parts I guess). I thought it may be piston slap so I babied it back to my appt. It was pretty nasty, lotsa tapping when revved, sounds like my old 5.0 with a 224/224 .542 lift cam in it now. NO REVVING OF ANY SORT! was done. What could POSSIBLY have changed. Same brand of oil, same part number oil filter, car didnt move 5 feet before it began. I will have 10-30 M1 synthetic as per GM spec in the car in the next hour and will post up the results. If the sound stays then I will be mystified and ROALLY PISSED that an oil change did this.
You could seriously have changed your oil and put bar chain oil in and you wouldnt have developed this issue. Its funny how people lie to themselves knowing in the back of their minds what probably really happened. Usually this would happen after getting an oil change at a shop and the person would then go back and try to scam a new engine out of them. And how many miles does this car have again??
